JPNinPA
Well-known member
Stock stop to stop is 3 3/8 turns. You stated it took you 3.5 turns. Seems like it's equal to me. If it were 1.75 to 3 3/8 then yes.
Steering too easy on TJ
- Thread starter PIR8
- Start date
Stock stop to stop is 3 3/8 turns. You stated it took you 3.5 turns. Seems like it's equal to me. If it were 1.75 to 3 3/8 then yes.
JPNinPA
Well-known member
Yes the box is a gear box with hydraulic assistance from the power steering pump. The gear ratio sets the number of turns. The size of the pump and Pistons within the pump set ease of turning. There are other things effecting the ease of turning.
The one item is caster. It is 7 deg stock and you are at app 5deg. This will effect ease of turning as well as sensitivity of steering. The sensitivity is what you are complaining about. The other item I asked about is the pitman arm. A third is air pressure. Also in the road really tight springs and shocks will help amplify sensitivity.
Shoot a pic of your front end like the pic I posted of someone else's vehicle.
JPNinPA
Well-known member
Whoa! A few things need to be verified. I'm hoping more will look at this and comment. Maybe more pics in the light of day.
The short side of the axel drivers side looks to be severely bent.
The drag link past the tie rod looks bent. Ok that may be normal. Not sure how much bend there should be in the drag link.
Tie rod is bent.
There is a slight bend in the passenger side axel tube..
Is that upper ball joint on the driver side new! I'm wondering if it is an offset one to correct for the bend?
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You guys are a riot i just ran out in the downpour half dressed to check if i got ripped off and i can confirm the axle is straight. Talk about phone distortion. Any chance you could mark specific areas on photo to check for any bend? Im afraid at this angle without a lift it will never look truthful.
JPNinPA
Well-known member
There are three images.
The top is the picture I posted. The white lines are straight.
Biggest bend is the driver side. Right on third image down.
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Same here, it is so sensitive that it is scary.
JPNinPA
Well-known member
So how much lift do you have? I'd think 4 in or more with the stock control arms will explain the low caster setting.
And the things I initially was looking for in the pics were:
Do you have
stock control arms-yes
stock pitman arm-yes
Is the track bar and drag link parallel- yes
Your toe setting is ok so the bend in the tie rod doesn't matter.
The better lighting does help but if I draw a line across the bottom of the longer side of the axel the shorter side (close to the knuckle) still appears to have a gap.
And the things I initially was looking for in the pics were:
Do you have
stock control arms-yes
stock pitman arm-yes
Is the track bar and drag link parallel- yes
Your toe setting is ok so the bend in the tie rod doesn't matter.
The better lighting does help but if I draw a line across the bottom of the longer side of the axel the shorter side (close to the knuckle) still appears to have a gap.
You guys were right, i did the chalk test and am running at 25 psi now down from 29, as for the steering it made no difference can still make the steering wheel continue spinning after i let go if i spin it hard, talk about super power steering. Talk about non-existence of self centering ...
JPNinPA
Well-known member
Stock spring length is 12 in from very top to very bottom of the spring on level ground with the weight of the vehicle. If there is a budget lift or spacer lift that has to be added in.
Caster angle effects return to center speed. The more caster the faster the return. Stock caster angle is 7 deg as you go up in lift the angle reduces. At 4 in of lift the caster is around 4 degrees. Your caster is around 5 degrees.
By BL of 2 in do you mean body lift or budget lift (coil spacers)?
JPNinPA
Well-known member
Reviewing your pictures.. The wheels.. Are they stock with a 1.5-2 in wheel spacer or are they a different wheel with less backspacing like 3.5 vs 5.5 stock? From the pic they used a spacer. This made running 33x12.50 cheaper to run without rubbing. This will also wear the wheel bearings and possibly the ball joints faster.
I ask because there is a measurement called scrub radius. I'm not an expert in this but the scrub area should be 1.5 to 2 inches I believe on the outside of the tire centerline. On your pic, if you drew a line through the ball joints it should fall under the tire thread. Yours appears to be outside due to the offset.. While more scrub should add resistance to turning it causes bump steer like conditions, more component wear and handling issues.
I ask because there is a measurement called scrub radius. I'm not an expert in this but the scrub area should be 1.5 to 2 inches I believe on the outside of the tire centerline. On your pic, if you drew a line through the ball joints it should fall under the tire thread. Yours appears to be outside due to the offset.. While more scrub should add resistance to turning it causes bump steer like conditions, more component wear and handling issues.
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