YJ stumbling

Atlas said:
I agree with the chain expanding when warm. Regardless something is making noise. Worse case scenario if it's all good is it will have a new gasket

The pan got smashed 5 years ago when the PO was wheeling in Moab. He said it never gave him an issue. I've had it for a year and no issue.

Stupid Midas messed the threads up though and never told me.

Should I get a new oil pump while I'm in there? I know atleast the screen.

Rear main doesn't leak.

Like I said before the PO owned it for 11 years and took very good care of it. Even the 3" body lift is professionally installed and has welds. I have the receipts. Everything is rhino lined. I stole it really.
Click to expand...

It could have took 5 years for something to slowly get loose. Anything can happen. As for the filler tube I'm not sure if air in the tank matters aslong as its not in the line. Cause when you open the gas cap air would get in regardless. It check the tube for any leaks anyway just to make sure it isn't that causing your issue
 
Yeah I'm changing the pan and pump so we will see

Tank pressurized after the cap gets put back on.

I'll see what's up Friday.

Seems nobody sells the pan under $200 anywhere. I can get a 4.0 for $85 but not a 2.5
 

dang!!!! really? that is crazy. someone has to have a 2.5 they pulled out to swap that would let the pan go cheap
 
Atlas said:
Yeah I'm changing the pan and pump so we will see

Tank pressurized after the cap gets put back on.

I'll see what's up Friday.

Seems nobody sells the pan under $200 anywhere. I can get a 4.0 for $85 but not a 2.5
Click to expand...

Try a junkyard they may have one cheaper
 
Yeah junk yard
I just don't want another one that has the oil drain plug threads stripped

So ok. Got home and pulled the tb off. I recleaned everything
I measured the resistance of the iac. Reads 0.00 which is exactly where it's supposed to be. Did some readings on the new Tps. It's in range. Just for laughs I put the oe Tps on. Tomorrow morning I'll put the tb on and see what happens.


One thing I noticed is when I shift it seems to need to regain some speed. I imagine it's due to being a 5 speed and rpms drop when shifting. It just seems to want more. Well it is a 4 cylinder
 

Atlas said:
Yeah junk yard
I just don't want another one that has the oil drain plug threads stripped

So ok. Got home and pulled the tb off. I recleaned everything
I measured the resistance of the iac. Reads 0.00 which is exactly where it's supposed to be. Did some readings on the new Tps. It's in range. Just for laughs I put the oe Tps on. Tomorrow morning I'll put the tb on and see what happens.

One thing I noticed is when I shift it seems to need to regain some speed. I imagine it's due to being a 5 speed and rpms drop when shifting. It just seems to want more. Well it is a 4 cylinder
Click to expand...

Well if the threads/bolt is stripped you can always repair it. It beats paying 200 for an oil pan when it could be 20 bucks at a junkyard
 
Ok. Re installed the tb. No change. No time to fool with it today. Tomorrow is test day. Autozone still doesn't have the gauge back

They should buy one from advance

I really appreciate all the help. My friend doesn't want to help me. He just keeps telling me to put his 350 in it....
Big help
 

No.

I think if either were bad I would get a code or no spark. I had a bad cps in my xj. It just stopped running. Cooled off and started running again. That was an easy fix

Cam sensor is in the distributor right?
 
Atlas said:
No.

I think if either were bad I would get a code or no spark. I had a bad cps in my xj. It just stopped running. Cooled off and started running again. That was an easy fix

Cam sensor is in the distributor right?
Click to expand...

I think so
 
image-missing.png
 

Monthes of trying to figure it on my own

5 minutes with a guy with a timing light

Timing marks are going back and forth.
Plus the rapping noise in the front of the engine...

New chain set has been ordered. Gotta get a pan


Not 100% this is what it is but I need to know what the rapping is anyways

Should I get a new cover as well?
 
Atlas said:
Monthes of trying to figure it on my own

5 minutes with a guy with a timing light

Timing marks are going back and forth.
Plus the rapping noise in the front of the engine...

New chain set has been ordered. Gotta get a pan

Not 100% this is what it is but I need to know what the rapping is anyways

Should I get a new cover as well?
Click to expand...

If its good no need to waist money but if its bent then replace it
 
have you looked into the cam position sensor? im not sure how it works but looking at the picture its like a magnet or something like that, it can easly get dirty from over the years if it was never looked at, try cleaning the deposits off and see where that gets you, as for the sound your hearing is there anyway you can take a video or a sound clip that way we can help point you in the right direction, good luck on the timing job,
 

We are changing the timing chain and pan. Then we will go from there
 
Nope

Now I'm ****ed

Changed the timing chain and still the same
Only thing was the tensioner looked liked the chain has been rubbing on it for years

Well I needed a pan anyways

Back to the drawing board. Guess I'll be checking the cam sensor next
 
dang man, that sucks!!

what did the vacuum gauge readings give you? there are some links to reading a vacuum gauge in the thread about computer bypass that tells you what to look for for internal issues.
 

I have not done the vacuum test or fuel test. We were sure it was timing because the marks were moving.

When I has my muffler put on the guy at Monroe told me my cat was half plugged. Then gave me a $600 quote
 
Atlas said:
Yes we cleaned the iac with tb cleaner which was removed from the tb
I can put the oem Tps back in but even with that I have the same issue
Same problem before the plugs and wires
Problem presents itself when cold and computer is ignoring the O2 except when I havd brought it to temp and restarted after 5 or so minutes but the engines cools down fast

I believe the stat was faulty and that's why I has large sweeps in my gauge. Yes the mix is more coolant rich but maybe 60/40. That is allowable due to cold temps

I don't have any large sweeps now. Everything ran fine until it got cold out

Could a weakening battery cause all this?
Click to expand...
I believe your problem is with a vacuum leak. The 2.5L has a staged vacuum port which means that it doesnt start to draw a good vacuum until it reaches a higher r.p.m.(thus you wouldnt find it by spraying the idling engine) and once your engine is warm, the leak either seals itself or the vac line flexes enough to prevent the leak. Just a thought, cause it happened to me on my 4.2L.
 
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