YJ stumbling
- Thread starter Atlas
- Start date
drivetrainsman
New member
WOW confusion!
Ok you have a start up issue whats it do idle high until it gets up to operating temp? If so the IAC is bad now way around that!
You should get the right thermostat in that thing also!
Good Luck!
Ok you have a start up issue whats it do idle high until it gets up to operating temp? If so the IAC is bad now way around that!
You should get the right thermostat in that thing also!
Good Luck!
It idles high when it's cold/overnight for about 2 minutes. Then drops down to I'd say 750. As I go and come to a stop after cold start up it idles up a little but comes down faster. When the temp needle starts moving it idles low
Also if I stop and shut it down for 5-10 minutes it will idle high to 1500 then come down after 15-20 seconds. And stumble. And be fine
I did however unplug the iac and noticed my idle was smoother. I'm letting it cool down so I can see if it stumbles with it unplugged. If it doesn't. New iac and hopefully it will solve all of this
Autozone was open today but their fuel gauge is broken. Seriously...
Also if I stop and shut it down for 5-10 minutes it will idle high to 1500 then come down after 15-20 seconds. And stumble. And be fine
I did however unplug the iac and noticed my idle was smoother. I'm letting it cool down so I can see if it stumbles with it unplugged. If it doesn't. New iac and hopefully it will solve all of this
Autozone was open today but their fuel gauge is broken. Seriously...
Ok. Just took it out with the iac unhooked. Started right up at a good idle.
Same stumbling problem. I noticed if I push the clutch in quick and give it a little gas it goes away faster.
I got to the stop sign and turned it off. I cycled my key quick to see if maybe the fuel pump needed to push more gas(I read something somewhere that it does something) started it back up and no stumbling.
Am I getting somewhere or am I still guessing
Same stumbling problem. I noticed if I push the clutch in quick and give it a little gas it goes away faster.
I got to the stop sign and turned it off. I cycled my key quick to see if maybe the fuel pump needed to push more gas(I read something somewhere that it does something) started it back up and no stumbling.
Am I getting somewhere or am I still guessing
luis
New member
The only way to know its the iac is putting in one that is known to be good. I was having an issue on my tj and I unplugged my iac and the idle drop it was running poorly and it stalled went in the cab and there was a cel on telling me that the iac was bad. Long story short the iac in my jeep was working since I plugged it back in the code went away. It ended up being my fuel pump was weak and was only pushing 20psi when it should have been pushing 60+ psi but my issue was my jeep was running to lean and it was corrected after the fuel pimp replacementAtlas said:
superj
Well-known member
take that iac off and clean it. clean in the throttle body where it fits also. those things get really dirty with black sooty carbon and cause idle issues. i pulled mine and and cleaned it with one of those plastic toothbrush looking brushes and some carb cleaner back when i had fuel injection on the cherokees
I thought about that.
Here's the thing. I have a slow rapping noise coming from the front of the engine. I can never really trace it down. When I did my water pump I ran it for a second and it was still there. Narrowed it down to something internal
But my oil pan is also badly dented. So it's either the chain or oil pump making the noise. I'm not sure how the pump would work if it's running on something
Maybe the chain is loose because maybe the tensioner is broke or a guide is gone
I need a new pan anyways so I'll change the pump
But if it's a stretched chain wouldn't my timing always be off?
I should get a new chain. It's probably chewing a hole in the cover
I've considered a burnt valve but I have alot of power still
Aggh. I just want it tO be right
Here's the thing. I have a slow rapping noise coming from the front of the engine. I can never really trace it down. When I did my water pump I ran it for a second and it was still there. Narrowed it down to something internal
But my oil pan is also badly dented. So it's either the chain or oil pump making the noise. I'm not sure how the pump would work if it's running on something
Maybe the chain is loose because maybe the tensioner is broke or a guide is gone
I need a new pan anyways so I'll change the pump
But if it's a stretched chain wouldn't my timing always be off?
I should get a new chain. It's probably chewing a hole in the cover
I've considered a burnt valve but I have alot of power still
Aggh. I just want it tO be right
Autozone said they are getting it fixed
Friday I'm going to my gf's dads.
We are going to
Check timing with a timing light
Check vacuum with a vacuum gauge
And hopefully fuel if it's fixed. He only has a gauge rated for 9 lbs
He really feels its my timing. As I think about it more and consider the noise I have I believe it to be as well
Regardless it needs a new oil pan and getting to the chain won't be so difficult. Timing light will tell though
Friday I'm going to my gf's dads.
We are going to
Check timing with a timing light
Check vacuum with a vacuum gauge
And hopefully fuel if it's fixed. He only has a gauge rated for 9 lbs
He really feels its my timing. As I think about it more and consider the noise I have I believe it to be as well
Regardless it needs a new oil pan and getting to the chain won't be so difficult. Timing light will tell though
luis
New member
Atlas said:
To me it doesn't make sense cause the chain is metal and would expand with heat. Your problem is its rough then as the temp gets hotter then it runs better. Cause when its cold the chain would be tight and expand as it gets hot. I'm not saying rule the chain out but it may not be your issue but I'm not an expert so I can be wrong. How did the oil pan get damaged? Maybe the chain guide or tensinor was knocked off
I agree with the chain expanding when warm. Regardless something is making noise. Worse case scenario if it's all good is it will have a new gasket
The pan got smashed 5 years ago when the PO was wheeling in Moab. He said it never gave him an issue. I've had it for a year and no issue.
Stupid Midas messed the threads up though and never told me.
Should I get a new oil pump while I'm in there? I know atleast the screen.
Rear main doesn't leak.
Like I said before the PO owned it for 11 years and took very good care of it. Even the 3" body lift is professionally installed and has welds. I have the receipts. Everything is rhino lined. I stole it really.
The pan got smashed 5 years ago when the PO was wheeling in Moab. He said it never gave him an issue. I've had it for a year and no issue.
Stupid Midas messed the threads up though and never told me.
Should I get a new oil pump while I'm in there? I know atleast the screen.
Rear main doesn't leak.
Like I said before the PO owned it for 11 years and took very good care of it. Even the 3" body lift is professionally installed and has welds. I have the receipts. Everything is rhino lined. I stole it really.
drivetrainsman
New member
Clean it and if no change replace it!
Timing chain will be more consistent rough idle no matter what!
A thought.
I have a 3 inch body lift( bought it that way)
The PO told me that the filler tube and vent tube in the tank are stretched because the kit didn't come with extended ones.
Once in awhile I smell gas near the filler neck. Possible I'm getting air in my tank and does that matter?
I have a 3 inch body lift( bought it that way)
The PO told me that the filler tube and vent tube in the tank are stretched because the kit didn't come with extended ones.
Once in awhile I smell gas near the filler neck. Possible I'm getting air in my tank and does that matter?
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