New Owner of a YJ Lots of Questions.

BillT

New member
I recently bought a 1991 YJ with a 2.5L 4 cylinder Jasper rebuild and 2" lift. I'm new to jeeps so if I ask something dumb please correct me.

Are cold air intakes a good idea? What's a good brand to purchase?
Would I see a positive performance difference if I replaced the headers and cat-back with mileage?
I want to go get a 4" What brand do yall recommend?
Will 31" tires look bad with the lift?
Would I have to change the gearing in the differential?
Would the new exhaust pipes get in the way? (When I bought my jeep I was looking under it and when the previous owner lifted it no one bent in the pipe so the front drive shaft was grinding against it.)
 

C.A.intakes are a good mild performance upgrade. Some would claim it enhanced the performance significantly on their ride. The downfall is the particles of dust it allows into the intake are much larger. With this said, if you live in an area where there's quite a bit of dust, you will need to service the filter more often than the recomended intervals. I have one on my Dodge pickup (Mopar performance)and i'm happy with it. The headers and catback system will significantly increase the performance of the 2.5, at least much more than the Cold air intake. The horsepower increase varies on the application. A 4 inch lift is good with the 31 inch tires. This will give you better clearance granted that you pick the correct offset of the wheels. The answer to the question in regards with the exaust pipes getting in the way lies on the hands of the fabricator. A good quality exaust shop thats experienced will know what to do on the routing of the pipes. Remember, you get what you pay for. A rubbing exaust pipe on the driveline is far from being a safe vehicle on the road.
 
I guess I won't get the cold air intake. The place I ride is nothing but sand and I'm staying away from mud until I get a winch.

My gas gauge is broken. I think I'm going to buy this.
(I can't post the link because I only have 1 post. :\)
The gauge I have right now when I fill up goes way past the full mark, moves after I used 3/4 of a tank and when the gauge shows 1/4 I'm empty. (Found that one out on I-20. :lol: )

And I think I'm going to go with a 4" skyjacker lift kit. What kind of offset would I need?

Also, the seats and the padding around the roll bar are Bestop is there a good way to clean the dirt off of them?

The picture below is from riding around today.
 

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The 4 cylinders are good little motors but not a powerhouse by any stretch of the imagination.
They don't get any better by adding any kind of bolt-on performance equipment, either.
You would have to do some serious work to the 2.5L in order for it to take any advantage of a C.A.I., headers or catback.
The 4 poppers come with 4.11 gears so as long as you don't go any bigger than 31s, you should be OK

Personally, I would stick with the 2" lift and 30x9.50-15s.
Going ga-ga on a 4 cylinder is ultimately unsatisfying.
 

I recently bought a 1991 YJ with a 2.5L 4 cylinder Jasper rebuild and 2" lift. I'm new to jeeps so if I ask something dumb please correct me.

Are cold air intakes a good idea? What's a good brand to purchase?
Would I see a positive performance difference if I replaced the headers and cat-back with mileage?
I want to go get a 4" What brand do yall recommend?
Will 31" tires look bad with the lift?
Would I have to change the gearing in the differential?
Would the new exhaust pipes get in the way? (When I bought my jeep I was looking under it and when the previous owner lifted it no one bent in the pipe so the front drive shaft was grinding against it.)

OK, a couple of things; first off, congrats on the new purchase. The 4 banger is not most powerful engine, but it holds its own just fine, and they are nearly undestructible.

Regarding your questions, I think steel pretty much hit it dead on on the CAI and exhaust part, so I will not cover that. I think 4" lift is too much for 31's. The Jeep will look like a roller skate with this lift and tire combo. Here's a pic of mine when I had it like that (I have since moved to 33's):

DSC02421-1.jpg


You can easily stuff 31's on a YJ with 2.5L, and this may save you form having to get a SYE and new CV drive shaft (which you will most likely need for the 4" lift). You can also stay with the stock springs, and swap to TJ flares and do a bit of body cutting (google up "TJ Flares"; a bunch of articles will pop up) and fit 31's just fine, but since you seem to be a rookie, I would do a 2.5" lift instead. As for brands, there are many good ones out there; personally, I prefer Rubicon Express, but there are many others that are good.

Regarding gears, I would recommend you regear. If you have a stick, I would recommend 4.88 with the 31's. I know all the charts will say 4.88 is for 33's, and 4.56 is for 31's, but I have run 4.88 and 31's, and it plain rocked! You can actually cruise on 5th and dont need to be dowshifting for every hill that comes at you... Besides, at 70mph, the 4 banger will be running at about 3,200RPM, which is about where the little engine likes to be (that's right in the torque band). And I even had better fuel economy with this setup than 4.10 and 31's (about a 1mpg improvement).

I also disagree that the mods dont work; there are some cheap ones you can do to free up some power and make some. These include swaping the throttle body for a 4.0L one (should run you under $50), or changing from a mechanical fan to an electric one (also under $50 if you go the junkyard way). I would do these before CAI or headers. Also, keep in mind some headers are aimed at geting more HP, not low end torque. THis means that they tend to shift the power band to higher RPM's (which you will rarely use), while sacrificing low end torque (which is what you really need). In other words, make sure you research before investing on mods... Some may not be what you are looking for.

If you want tons of info on the 4 banger, drop by www.4bangerjp.com and look around. This site is only for 4 banger owners, and has TONS of info on the little engine that could. You will find people that have modded the HECK out of their engines. Some run 37 or larger tires, some have turboed their Jeeps, some have supercharged theirs, some have built theirs to increase compression and what not, and others still run stock, so you'll get tons of viewpoints on what works and what does not.

Oh, and about your fuel gauge... It's VERY likely that the reason your gauge is acting the way it is is because the previous owner did the 20 gal tank conversion. YJ's all used the same tank, but they sold the 20 gal one as an option. The only difference is that the breather tube on the 16 gal tank is longer, and if you just remove it, you gained 4 gals. more of tank for free (at the cost that the tank reads full all the way from 20 gals to 16 gals). Also google it up, and you will find info on this.

Anyway, I hope this helps at least get you started!
 
If I cut the breather tube and I don't really have a 20 gallon tank what will happen?

But if I do have the 20 gallon tank and I buy a new instrument panel will 20 gallons register as full or will I need a new sender unit in my tank?
 
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All YJ's came with the same tank, as far as I know, but look online to be sure. Basically, there is a tube inside the tube, so it will have no effect. I just completely removed mine, and I have not had any negative effects as a result...

As for the gauge to work properly, you would need a new tank sending unit. Doable, yes, but not worth while if you ask me. Now, in your case, it seems that this is not the problem (I just re-read the post), as even with the 20 gal. conversion, empty IS empty. Just full would be out of whack. Now, if your sending unit is shot, this would be the perfect time to do the 20 gal conversion and put the right sending unit there (since you would be buying one anyway!).
 

i disagree with the 4" lift and 31" tires looking bad comment.
i just finished installing my lift today( about an hr ago) and it looks great! can't say the same for my hands but im proud of my work.

about the upgrades.. i agree that they dont help as much as one would like for the cost but i forked out the money on my 4banger: air intake, throttle body spacer, headers, exhaust. i'd say the headers/ exhaust did the most... the elec fan and 4.0 throttle body sound like they would help. and can get them done for not to much money. re-gearing? good but pricy.

anyways just wanted to brag a lil. thnx
 
You need to upload some pictures I want to see it.
But, I'll probably upgrade my tires because I think my wheels look like trash.

With the performance parts will they improve mileage at all?
And when you change the gearing is that just the ring and pinion in the differential?
 
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ok will do. but u'll have to wait till fri. im away from my baby for a few days.

they help a lil. 2-3 mpg here and there. depends what u do.
idk what goes on when re-gearing. im interested in it too
 

With the performance parts will they improve mileage at all?
And when you change the gearing is that just the ring and pinion in the differential?

To be honest, most of the mods are aimed at improving power (torque in particular), and since power has to come from somewhere, ussually, they tend not to improve mpg. Some could in theory, but the improvments will be minimal at best (such as the Ford Taurus eFan).

And yes, gearing is ring and pinnion... And that one DOES have the potential to increase mpg (I added 1mpg when I regeared mine from 4.10 to 4.88 with 31's), but it is also one of the more expensive mods, so dont expect to save so much that the mod will pay for itself, cause it wont...
 
To be honest, most of the mods are aimed at improving power (torque in particular), and since power has to come from somewhere, ussually, they tend not to improve mpg.
I disagree, I think it's pretty easy to see a mileage improvement while increasing performance. Enough of a performance increase and the engine isn't working as hard, it's operating in a correct powerband and not lugging at lower RPM's. Keeping your foot out of the engine and driving reasonably also has a lot to do with seeing good mileage after the power improvements.

I've done quite a bit to my 2.5L and it's a blast to drive, very acceptable power and mileage with the 35" and 36" tires I currently run.
 
What are good lights? I was thinking about going with 100W KC Daylighters.

YES FIVE POSTS! I can post links!
Half way to being able to respond to my private messages.
 
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I prefer 2.5" lift with 31's which is a good match for the 2.5 with stock gears.... Any taller tire and you'll find yourself quite long legged. I like running 33's with 3.5-4.5" lift. I ran 35's with about 5.5..... Now with soa/3.5" springs I can clear 40's with just a bit of rub.....

If the sending unit is the problem with your fuel guage quite often you can drop the tank, pull the sending unit and find where it's getting held up by a small plasic tub at the bottom of your fuel tank. A little bend in the sending unit wire and you can get your empty reading back.... I just did the 15-20 mod on another yj today and it's a piece of cake if you start with a near empty tank.

I'd go with the 100w KCs instead of the 55w for sure.....

Congrats on your new purchase!!!!
 

I'd go with the 100w KCs instead of the 55w for sure..

I'd say depending on what you want them for... If you plan to run them along with the normal driving lights (as in they will be on most of the time), I'd go with the 55W ones; they will last longer, and will not blind oncoming traffic (even with the 55W fog lights I drive with most of the time - KC Slimlites - and facing a bit down, I get a lot of people turning on their hibeams to "complain" that I am blinding them!).

If you want to supplement the high beams, then the 100W ones are the way to go. Keep in mind the 100W are not DOT approved (only 55W is). But they are FANTASTIC to drive at night (it's like turning on the Sun!). Of course, oncoming traffic might feel a bit different, but since I drive in Central America, the law is pretty flexible here (no wattage rules; just location of the light, and even that is not enforced), so the KC Daylighters are a plus for me (because they are above the stock lights, they are "illegal" here, so I just cover them up with the smiley faces and call it good; then, when I drive from Panama to Costa Rica or back, I just take the smileys off at night).
 
I disagree, I think it's pretty easy to see a mileage improvement while increasing performance. Enough of a performance increase and the engine isn't working as hard, it's operating in a correct powerband and not lugging at lower RPM's. Keeping your foot out of the engine and driving reasonably also has a lot to do with seeing good mileage after the power improvements.

I've done quite a bit to my 2.5L and it's a blast to drive, very acceptable power and mileage with the 35" and 36" tires I currently run.
what size lift?
 
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