YJ Shackle lift problems!!!!!!!!!

happy024

New member
sorry guys (ellipses)

Ok guys and gals I need help!
I have gotten a Daystar 1 1/4 greasable shackle lift for my 95 YJ. Read up on how to install and sounded very easy. Not the case for me :evil:
I started on the rear end first. The bolts on the stock shackles are facing twords the gas tank so I can't even pull them out.
The kit I got has its own bolts so in my back counrty farm boy thinking I figure I can cut the bolts when I need to. So for S/G's I take the bottom bolts out to drop the axle down (keep in mind first time doing this).
When i take the bottom bolts out the leaf spring go right up to the frame.
That is my first ? Is this suppost to happen. I had the jack stands infront of the leaf springs on the frame with rear tires about 3 inches off the ground and the jack under the pumpkin ready to lower the rear axle.
Was i doing the right thing there or am I just being a moron?
So after scratching my head and cussing at my jeep for the bolts being the wrong way and making me feel like an ass. I pry back the leafs and install the bottom bolts so the come out away from the gas tank.
So second ? how in the hell do i get the top bolts out with out having to cut them?

So at this point i figure I will just check the front end and see if the axle will drop like I thought it was suppost to.Remove bottom bolts(thankfully very easy to get to odveusly) and springs dont go up to frame but won't drop! What am i doing wrong. Is in old bushings old shocks to cold wrong fase of the moon :evil:
Please help me I would feal like an ass if I have to pay someone to install a shackle lift for me :cry:
 

RE: Luckiest man alive!!!

I cut mine with a sawsall - use a good quality blade and it will go quick. As for the jacking, I never raised the Jeep. I just put a jack between the spring and the frame to relieve the weight, then jacked it higher to install the longer shackle.

Short of dropping the gas tank you'll have to cut them. Good news is when/if you get sick of all the extra caster those big shackles put into your steering they will be easier to change back out :wink: (been there, done that)
 
RE: Re: RE: Re: RE: New Years at Greenridge

I'd cut the rears with an angle grinder/cutoff wheel.

I just swapped my rears out for a set of Revolvers, and I lowered the fuel tank out. Actually I took the tank skid all the way off, figured it's a good time to clean it out.

Must've had pressure on the jack under the axle in order for the spring eyes to go up against the frame like that. Sounds like you're now far enough into this that you have a good understanding of how it all works. Post up here if you get stuck on something.
 

you need nothing under the axle at all... of course the axle will fall.. but not far i'd hope... i'd say to cut off the bolts... that's what i've had to do a few times... not a big deal... just put the new bolts in the other way... if you jack anything up, just jack the jeep up just about 3 inches, maybe even just 2, by the frame that is...

if you want the caster to remain correct.. you can also install a small shim in the front perches to get the axle tilted rearward as it should be.. i'm talkin only like 1 or 2 degrees.. this is one step that most people do not take
 
But see the thing is the axle will not fall. To put the stock shckles back on i had to litarally pry them down to get the bolt on. this is with the back of the jeep in the air.

Snitty thanks for shim idea will do it when I can figure this out
 
Remember those puzzles of chrome wire? You twist them just right to pull them apart, welp, that's what you've got. Remove the OUTSIDE shackle plate first then remove both of the OUTSIDE rubber bushings. Now, just pull the shackle towards the tank (with the 2 bushings as a unit) and back towards you at the same time. Forget the stupid saw. You'll wonder what the big deal was. Believe me, I've done several.

Put the rear of the jeep up on safe jack stands then (I prefer 2 floor jacks for better control) put a jack under each side of your axles housing (w/o wheels) and let them down to the correct height so you can just pull the shackles out. Grease everything up good when you stall the new shackles. You may need a pry bar to push the springs down for the new shackles.

You should have NEW selflocking nuts for the new shackles. Just thread them up so there's no play or spaces, DON'T TORQUE them or you'll have a super stiff ride.

Have fun,
 

RE: np435 (new big transmission)

Ritt said:
Remember those puzzles of chrome wire? You twist them just right to pull them apart, welp, that's what you've got. Remove the OUTSIDE shackle plate first then remove both of the OUTSIDE rubber bushings. Now, just pull the shackle towards the tank (with the 2 bushings as a unit) and back towards you at the same time. Forget the stupid saw. You'll wonder what the big deal was. Believe me, I've done several.

This is exactly what I had done too. No cutting since the bushing is split. Just work one side out after you get the metal sleeve out.

Jules
 
RE: sorry guys (ellipses)

These hints and ideas are great and am glad that I don't need to cute the bolts.

But Still don't know why whole rear end won't drop(and front end). Theres nothing under it. It is in the air on jack stands on the frame in front of the springs so nothing is touching springs axle tires ect.

Thanks for all the help
 
What about your e-brake cables or brake lines? Is it binding at the spring eyes?

Just be careful. You don't want to loose fingers.
 

OR/WA runs

All cables and lines are clear and out of way. Only thought i had was to losen the bolts at the other end of spring and it might drop then?
Would the shocks hold the springs from dropping?
 
CJ / YJ Rollbar bolts and 1 CJ dash bolt

The rear spring eyes are forced back into the frame because the bushings/bolts are seized at the frame end of the spring, the spring is wanting to return to where it's at with the weight on the tires.
 
Finally I got the lift in.
I used Ritts advice to take out the top bolt on the rear shackles. Worked like a charm!
And used Twisted idea to put jack between frame and spring to spread them apart. A little hairy at times but still worked.

Bounty the bushing/bolts must be seized becuase I tried to crack them and could only get 1 of the 4 the break lose.
In near future ( this weekend) am going to a buddies house that has some air wrenchs to get thoughs broke lose.

Thanks for all the help I wouldn't have been able to do without it!!!!!!!!
 

i was just gonna come here to post that i forgot to mention last night that frozen bushings will very well try to put the springs back up to your frame, they will try to relax back to the position they've been in for the past 10 years
 
happy024 said:
In near future ( this weekend) am going to a buddies house that has some air wrenchs to get thoughs broke lose.

NOW get out that sawsall. I broke mine loose by muscling them around for 4 hours with a pipe on a breaking bar. It will be easier to cut between the mounting ears and the rubber bushing on each side of the spring IF you have new bolts. This will be the worst part of the entire job. If you can remove the spring eye bolts slather everything up with silver anti-seize. In fact do that at assembly of any body or suspension stuff.
 

RE: Re: body lift problem

if you don't have new bolts.. they are easy enough to come by
 
RE: Transfercase rattle on a 99 TJ

here is the finished product (for Now) with exhuast that i put on last weekend
 

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Looks good. Hows your steering? We put 1 1/4 lift shackles on my gals yj for about a week. Took em off because driving was a crap shoot every time.
 

RE: 1/4 elliptical spring question

if you shim your front axle.. the steering will not suffer much or at all
 
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