Computer bypass 2100 changeout

i unhooked them when i redid my lines to match a cj. they are hanging on the firewall hooked to each other the keep the dirt out. they will go into the shed now, with the cto valve
 

absolutemoon said:
Hey 808, 5 1/2 more days!!!!!! Getting close.

So close yet so far away! Lol. And now I have all this homework from superj to study. It's gonnah be freakin awesome.
 
dude, i feel like i have a new jeep with all this stuff to learn and adjust properly now. and i thought it was all proper before. the jeep runs so much better now that i am anxious to do stuff to it again. i am going ot have a hard time sleeping tonight now because of hte change it made to how it runs, so far.
 

we'll all have bad ass running jeeps soon, ha ha ha
 
I think I've toasted you both four or five times already. Stopped workin on her about an hour ago. Don't need to f anything up due to hops and barley.
 
Ok fellas. Got me a brand spanking new vacuum gauge. Had some well deserved sleep and am ready to tune this beast. Keep you posted
 

If this is how my day will start I might as well pack up my tools and go back to sleep. I "t"Ed off the pcv vac line, fired her up and it reads "0" at idle and with a rev. I double checked my dist vac line like you said last night and it does have suction with higher rpm. Am I missing something?
 
Starting from the beginning. This picture shows the set screw pass side below the choke. It does not touch the linkage that engages the flap (breather I think) on top the carb. Problem? I noticed a spark this morn when I reved it and also noticed the flap does not move at all. I found why it sparked. A small c clamp broke and was grounding out. However, that's when I traced the linkage and notices this screw is not hitting right. Now what?
 

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I had that problem when I replaced my old BBD with the 2100. I would rev it up and it would take a while for it to return to idle. I checked the linkage and everything was fine. I changed the jets to 47's and that fixed my problem.
 

absolutemoon said:
Starting from the beginning. This picture shows the set screw pass side below the choke. It does not touch the linkage that engages the flap (breather I think) on top the carb. Problem? I noticed a spark this morn when I reved it and also noticed the flap does not move at all. I found why it sparked. A small c clamp broke and was grounding out. However, that's when I traced the linkage and notices this screw is not hitting right. Now what?

I believe that is the fast idle adjustment. Can you move the choke plate by hand? And are you getting 12 volts at the choke wire with the key on?
 
That screw needs to ride on that stepped piece to control your fast idle, which wire and c clip broke?

808 is right.
 
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Yea, I have voltage. Fixed the spark problem. Won't even tell you what my dumb ass did. Have to figure out if the fast idle adjustment screw is suppose to butt up against the choke linkage or not. Mine currently does not weather is screw it all the way in or all the way out. It just starts to hit the linkage with the screw threads and hangs up the butterfly (plate up top)
 
From what I see in the picture, either the fast idle can or the throttle shaft is out alignment. I wonder I that's the c-clip your talking about.
 
The c clip was attached to the bar the connects to the butterfly. It helps if you have the choke hooked up to positive and not negative. My dumb ass was working in poor light when I hooked it up initially. I can put a washer behind the linkage bar to extend it. Check yours when you get it though.
 

Ha ha ha ah ha. My current timing at idle is off the chart. I would guesstimate @-24. Throttle up and it's worse. Can't get a vacuum reading to save my life. Only ported vacuum will read on the gauge. What a wonderful Friday. I have a cracked exhaust manifold, will that affect my vacuum readings. I think I asked already bit want to double check. Thx

I took a pic of the manifold crack. Middle close to the block.
 

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