Carb problem.... I think.


SweetPeet, I'm sorry you're having such trouble, 'Betty' when I first got her, had one of these "Edelbrock Carter clones" and I had much of the same issues you have. Even after taking care of a couple of vacuum leaks and a rebuild of this carburetor, it just would not run well. Ultimately dieing on a secondary highway I pulled off the air cleaner to have a look, retried the starter and a backfire through the carburetor caught the primary throat on fire. Luckily I had a fire extinguisher on board so I was able to douse the fire before it spread. After cleaning up the engine compartment I bought back from my best friend a 'real' Carter AFB that several years ago I ran on a Chevy 350 with a big hydraulic cam.
I got the metering rod and jet chart from online and made my calculations as I needed to lean this out for the mild 360 in 'Betty.' Once rejetted and slightly stiffer metering rod springs and this AFB has been running like a top. Since this chain of events I've not trusted these Edelbrock Carter clones.

From the Carter Carburetors manual by Dave Emanuel;

"Until a few years ago (this manual published in 1983) rotating an idle mixture scres (on just about any carburetor) counter-clockwise always meant that more air/fuel mix would be dishcharged and a richer idle mixture would result. But when the bureaucrats in Washington began increasing their stranglhold on Detroit, carburetor manufacturers found that a new system offered advantages for meeting emissions standards. Some companies incorporated a second air bleed into the idle system, which was adjustable. By changing a few passages, the mixture screw could be used to adjust bleed air, rather than fuel.
Carburetors incorporating this system are commonly refferred to as "reverse idle" models since the engine receives a richer mixture when the screws are turned clockwise, and a leaner mixture when they're rotated counter-clockwise.....And to further complicate the issue, some "reverse idle" carburators are equipped with left hand threaded adjusting screws, so they may still be adjusted by the "clockwise lean. counter-clockwise rich" procedure.....
Because the the adjustable air bleed controls the amount of air admitted inti the entire idle circuit not just at the idle port. Fuel flow out of the idle port is therefore no longer adjustable, andvolume is stricktly the result of idle feed restriction calibration. This is why it is almost impossible to kill the engine when adjusting the idle mixture on a "reverse idle" carburetor. Regradless of the screw setting the engine will be supplied with sufficient idle fuel."

I know some of this reads like lawyerese but essentially to make marked adjustments as to lean/rich it becomes a metering rod and jet issue.
 
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Turbogus said:
Sorry to be beating this tin drum but The AFB, (and the Edelbrock clones) the screws in front are not mixture screws, rather they're secondary air bleed screws. Otherwise, when you screw them all the way in, the motor would die.

The proper way to change the mixture you'll needs a 'jet kit' that comes with metering rods, springs and jets. Using the correct spring, rod, and jet will yield better carburateion. A chart is available on the Edelbrock website to help detirmine the combination nesessary, but after I replaced that clone with my old 'real' AFB, I went a little leaner and it hasn't had any problems since. Good luck.

I'm sick of this eldelbrock bs, I think I'm going to go out and get a Carter afb! But before I do that, I'm not very carb savvy.does the choke constantly need to be adjusted or just twice, when starting and then set to sweet spot?
 
if you set it right when you set the starting setting, that should be the only adjustment you make to the choke. if its an electrical choke. if its manual then you choke it to start and unchoke it once its warmed a bit
 

So I think I'm coming back to one of my prevous assumptions. I think the carb is flooding itself. Sounds like it's muffled, but only at a certain point.

Would a high throttle cause the fuel to be rich, flood, or back fire?

Is it possible to back fire when the mixture is too lean?
 
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Have you checked to see if you distributor is advancing, that could make it stumble, even if your diaphragm is good you could have a broken spring or even a worn distributor
 
Smizar said:
Have you checked to see if you distributor is advancing, that could make it stumble, even if your diaphragm is good you could have a broken spring or even a worn distributor

I have an hei distributor, could advancing still happen? But, I'll check.
 

You have a vacuum advance chamber on the side right?
 

Then you have a vacuum advance, remove the line from the carb and with the dist cap off put suction on the line and see if the advance is working and holding
 
Smizar said:
Then you have a vacuum advance, remove the line from the carb and with the dist cap off put suction on the line and see if the advance is working and holding

Ok I'll give it a shot
 
Good luck with the distributor check Peet, but given your descriptions of your symptoms, I'm leaning towards my original opinion that it's just a bad Edelbrock perhaps put together on a monday or friday at the factory.

The later AFB's come standard with an electric choke and even though it can be adjusted for winter ~ summer. I just set it up at a happy medium and it's worked fine ever since.
 

Turbogus said:
Good luck with the distributor check Peet, but given your descriptions of your symptoms, I'm leaning towards my original opinion that it's just a bad Edelbrock perhaps put together on a monday or friday at the factory.

The later AFB's come standard with an electric choke and even though it can be adjusted for winter ~ summer. I just set it up at a happy medium and it's worked fine ever since.

I haven't checked the distributor yet. but that aside, If it is a bad carb like you said how would I prove it? I got it from 4wp.
 
.... also from dealing with other vehicles in the past a backfire throught the carburator can indicate a lean, rather than rich condition of the carb.
 
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