wiring question

[superj]

ok, after going through all the wiring on the 87 wrangler i just got (4.0 with auto transmission), when the carb was swapped, a nutter by-pass was not done. some other type of by-pass was done with a jumper wire in a plug on the engine side of hte harness. i did the nutter by-pass and it helped on the smoothness of how the engine runs but i cannot figure out why the jumper is there. i do know that if i pull hte jumper wire then the jeep dies. all the wiring harnesses in the jeep look unmolested except at the coil and i have unplugged all the sensors (they are all still present and plugged in) with no changes to how the gauges read. the only one that works properly is the volt meter. the fuel gauge and oil pressure immediately peg out when you turn the key to run and the temp gauge works for the first quarter of its range. the fuel gauge will randomly flop around after it pegs out sometimes.

can someone take a pic of how the engine wiring harness should look after a nutter by-pass and tell me what needs to be plugged where? also, i imagine i no longer need the 02 sensor, any of hte sensors in the intake, nor the odd valve stuck out from the driver's side of the intake with a vacuum line attached to it, seems like some type of emissions valve?

the jeep runs great and gets the same gas mileage as the wife's 93 wrangler with 4.0 and auto but i would like to know how everything is doing while i am driving around, is why i am asking all the questions

 

[jps4jeep]

wondering if that jumper is jumping the balast resistor.

little confused, you swapped in a 4.0 and kept the carb?

 

[superj]

no, someone swapped a 99 4.0 block in and kept everything else. then they put a weber 34 on it. they didn't do the nutter bypass but they did some other type of jumper wire to a plug in the engine bay that is about midway down the valve cover. they jumped what looks like a power wire to a wire in a 6 wire plug.

where is the ballast resistor? one of the two relays by the battery is no good because when i swap them, the jeep won't run anymore.

here is the carb that is on the engine.

i tried to reset all the screws on the carb and i think the mixture screw is bad or the bore is ruined from being screwed in to much. the idle will die but once you open the screw past about 3.5 turns, nothing changes on the idle. i set the idle speed screw back to as low as it can go and reset that mixture screw to 2.5 and 3.0 turns, like you normally would with a weber and tried to set the time properly (there could be my issue though since my timing light is awol) but the jeep won't idle at the base settings. i know the pressure regulator is set to 3.5 but i haven't actually put a gauge on the rail.

what caused me to mess with it to start is that the jeep would diesel when you shut it off. i found the idle set screw to be turned out so far the throttle plates were way open at idle.

ok, so, to summarize:

ballast resistor is located where?
relays by battery, one is no good
jumper wire goes to 6 wire plug and is providing power
jeep runs great but dieseled

 

[jps4jeep]

not positive on the exact location on a early yj, the balast resistor should be on the fender well on the pass side. it is fairly common to jump them when they go bad. rebuild the carb, I would start there.

 

[superj]

Ok, here is what is on the pass fender.

This the two relays and a weird little flat box that I have no idea what it does.


And then this (that I forgot the name of but its not bolted to the wall like I would expect it to be)

 

[SteelHeadz]

That pic on the bottom is a starter solenoid and yes, that should be secured somehow to the fenderwell or the firewall. All it takes is one time for that positive terminal to hit the body and there's a big electrical issue. I'll see if I can find some diagram for that relay by that diagnostic port.