Need help picking a front locker...

[Joopin]

After wheeling today I have decided to get a front locker. I didn't really have trouble until the Yukon I was with got stuck REAL GOOD. It took us an hour to get him out but I was thinking if I had the front locked it would have been alot faster. Right now I have a posi rear d44 and the stock d30 in the front with an open carrier. I would like to have something that I could install, something quiet, and something automatic. I looked in the quadratec catalog and they have the Powertrax, Lock Right, and Detroit Locker. The first two say that I can install them, are quiet, and are auto... the Detroit says quiet and 100% axle lock up, and are auto... but they are twice as much... Which of these are the best for moderate wheeling? Are there any other lockers I should consider? thanks
Joop

 

[far_right]

lock-right if you dont mind the noise, and powertraxes are almost as much as a Detriot, i would add Aussie Locker to that list but apparently they are have trouble meeting demands and are having very slow delivery

 

[ecor]

The lock right is not a quite locker, but the no spin is. It costs $200 less then the detroit locker and unless your running a v8 you should be fine. If you don't mind clicking noise at very slow speeds then save the money and get the lock right. We have a lot of people running them in the rear up here and they all are very happy with them. It just sounds like your tire is loose when you are turning slow in the Walmart parking lot..

 

[Junkpile]

I've seen guys with 33" or smaller tires run lockers in the D30 without trouble, but those 36s are going to be strain. The D30 really needs some upgraded shafts with bigger joints to run a locker with tires that big. While not as effective, I would feel safer with a limited slip or something like the Detroit Softlocker(?) with tires that big, even with upgraded shafts. I'm not knocking the 30. I really like that axle, especially the YJ version.....but it has it's limitations.

 

[far_right]

The lock right is not a quite locker, but the no spin is

I have never heard this anywhere, i was under the impression that the LR provided 100% lock-up :shock:

 

[Bounty__Hunter]

The lock right is not a quite locker, but the no spin is

I have never heard this anywhere, i was under the impression that the LR provided 100% lock-up :shock:

I think he meant 'not a quiet locker' and not 'not quite a locker'. It's 100% lockup, but makes more noise than the noslip.

I wouldn't worry about onroad noise, you won't hear a thing since you have the passenger side axle disconnect.

I welded the front diff in my YJ D30, and installed a manual disconnect for the passenger side. 100% locked when you need it, and no sheer force from sudden lockup. Easier on parts.

 

[far_right]

Engine Upgrade?

oops... me cant read straight

 

[TwistedCU]

1988 black and gold side moulding

I welded the front diff in my YJ D30, and installed a manual disconnect for the passenger side. 100% locked when you need it, and no sheer force from sudden lockup. Easier on parts.

I like that idea, more so than in the rear becuase of the posi-lock type setup you can (and did) do. Being that I don't know a heck of alot about differentials, could you explain exactly whay I would have to do to weld the axle? I already have the manual disconnect concept.

Locked up front for about $15 worth of bike brake parts and a welding rod or two. Nice!!!

 

[beachjeep]

Sorry to cut in here but...if you welded your front D30 even with a manual disconnect wouldnt your front wheels still always rotate the same speed all the time? Seems like they would wear very fast and chirp around corners. I too am not very literate in differentials. If not, that would be an excellent way to lock the front for very little $$$!!

 

[TwistedCU]

Sorry to cut in here but...if you welded your front D30 even with a manual disconnect wouldnt your front wheels still always rotate the same speed all the time? Seems like they would wear very fast and chirp around corners. I too am not very literate in differentials. If not, that would be an excellent way to lock the front for very little $$$!!

Nope, that's why you have the disconnect. Actually, you don't even need the disconnect, the factory one would work, but it would limit when you could use 4wd. With the Manual disco, or posi-lock, you could be using 4wd and disconnect the front axle for a tight turn or any other reason. Without it, the front would be locked at all times in 4WD.

 

[Bounty__Hunter]

I didn't use a cable manual disconnect, just spliced a manual vacuum switch from an SJ into the stock vacuum lines. Cheap and easy.

The welded diff is great offroad, point the jeep and it goes. There are no negative side-effects on the road, except when using 4wd in the snow. I disconnect the pass. side and use 3wd in the snow so I can still steer, and have no problems. I also use 3wd on the tightest offroad turns, cuts down on 3+ point turns.

I'm welded in the rear too so it's true 3wd and 4wd. Love it onroad, very predictable and no annoying locking/unlocking and unexpected lane changes that you get with auto lockers. Excess tire wear is not as prevelent as you would think, and minimized with good rotation practices.

MIG welding the spider gears is the way to go, with a 220 MIG and lots of metal between each spider gear. Just don't weld the spider gears to the case.

I've had this setup for a few years now with no problems, and it's often my daily driver to my part-time job downtown St. Louis. 4banger and 32" tires, D30 and D35.

 

[TwistedCU]

I didn't use a cable manual disconnect, just spliced a manual vacuum switch from an SJ into the stock vacuum lines. Cheap and easy.

That's even better! but... SJ???

 

[far_right]

FSJ??? maybe?

 

[ecor]

Sorry for the confussion, was type quick and transposed the t and the e. The SJ was the full size Wagoneer. As for the the welded spiders I've seen it work for some and not for others. It depends on there welding skills, and if not done well it can cause a lot of damage fi the welds break loose.

 

[Junkpile]

SJ is the official two letter designation for the FullSize Jeep(FSJ) line. SJ=FSJ

 

[laneiac]

I have seen people run lock rights on 35 inch tires and have no problems. If your looking to save a buck, go with one of those, or an Aussie if you can get one.

 

[ah_too_bad]

i'd do the ox locker...

 

[Sully]

Ox is having problems with parts, and getting them to the consumer's.

 

[Utah_jeepster]

I would add in here with a locked front you loose alot of turning radius. I would recomend that you soft lock the front or go to a ARB. Being able to un-lock the front axle and make those very tight turns without getting out of the Jeep is a big plus in mud and snow.

 

[Joopin]

Sounds like there are way to many options and opinions! The lock right seems to be in my buget but the powertrax says its quiet for a little more money... I havn't checked out the aussie locker yet either. I think I'm going to call randys ring and pinion tomorrow for some ideas too.

Being able to un-lock the front axle and make those very tight turns without getting out of the Jeep is a big plus in mud and snow.

If I put a locker in the front, I don't necessarily need manual hubs do I?