Jason4x4's 2006 TJ project
- Thread starter Jason4x4
- Start date
Nice looking Jeep - I like the "Stomper" on the hood.
Thanks and thanks for moving the thread 8). I wasn't sure how many people would "get" the Stomper reference but I loved playing with those things when I was a kid!
xt master
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The front end caps are a most go.
The rear can go either way.I removed mine both front and back and capped the back ones with some scrap metal.I tried capping the front but with the limited tools I have,"A hammer",I had a hard time trying to get the bend to match the angle in the front.
You can kind of see the end caps I made for the rear..Not the best pic for it but the only one I have ATM.
The rear can go either way.I removed mine both front and back and capped the back ones with some scrap metal.I tried capping the front but with the limited tools I have,"A hammer",I had a hard time trying to get the bend to match the angle in the front.
You can kind of see the end caps I made for the rear..Not the best pic for it but the only one I have ATM.
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Took her out for a shakedown trip wheelin' at Green Ridge State Forest today. If you read my 'trip report' thread, I wheeled there for the first time back in July. It's a fairly easy trail. I just wanted to test out the new suspension and check for problems before I go up to Rausch Creek in a few weeks.
All went well with the exception of finding out that with the swaybar disconnected the U-joint on the front driveshaft smacks into the engine/transmission skid (see my other thread for pictures and more details on that). There was an inch or so of snow which made the trail MUCH more difficult. There were a few "pucker up" moments where I was off-camber sliding towards a sheer drop, but all in all the Jeep performed quite well and we had a lot of fun. Now I need to pull that Rusty's skid and notch it so I can disconnect the swaybar without tearing up the front driveshaft...
All went well with the exception of finding out that with the swaybar disconnected the U-joint on the front driveshaft smacks into the engine/transmission skid (see my other thread for pictures and more details on that). There was an inch or so of snow which made the trail MUCH more difficult. There were a few "pucker up" moments where I was off-camber sliding towards a sheer drop, but all in all the Jeep performed quite well and we had a lot of fun. Now I need to pull that Rusty's skid and notch it so I can disconnect the swaybar without tearing up the front driveshaft...
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nice! Now I just need the light bar...
Just wanted to give you guys a quick update:
I got some parts last week but haven't had time to do anything with the Jeep until today because a) I was supposed to be on vacation all week and ended up having to work and b) my wife and I adopted a dog from the humane society when we got back in town from Christmas on Tuesday and all my time not spent at work has gone into trying to train her (the dog, not the wife
).
Anyway, I picked up the Rock-It intake with the regular filter (didn't feel like shelling out the extra cash for the "max flow" filter, and I can't imagine that it makes much difference over the regular K&N type filter anyway...I'd be shocked if it was more than 1-2hp, if even that.) Got it installed this morning and took some pictures that I'll post later for a 'how-to' type thing.
Also got the new straps for the front driveshaft yoke installed. I was able to use my father-in-law's torch to notch out the Rusty's skid to clear the u-joint/driveshaft but I haven't got around to painting it so it can be re-installed yet (cutting it obviously left exposed metal so I need to paint it to prevent rust).
I was planning on going with Mt. Zion Offroad to Rausch Creek tomorrow but since we ended up adopting our dog and my wife has to work all day tomorrow I'm not going to be able to make it. My birthday is at the end of the month and I'm going to try and plan a trip up there that weekend to put the new suspension to the test.
I got some parts last week but haven't had time to do anything with the Jeep until today because a) I was supposed to be on vacation all week and ended up having to work and b) my wife and I adopted a dog from the humane society when we got back in town from Christmas on Tuesday and all my time not spent at work has gone into trying to train her (the dog, not the wife
).Anyway, I picked up the Rock-It intake with the regular filter (didn't feel like shelling out the extra cash for the "max flow" filter, and I can't imagine that it makes much difference over the regular K&N type filter anyway...I'd be shocked if it was more than 1-2hp, if even that.) Got it installed this morning and took some pictures that I'll post later for a 'how-to' type thing.
Also got the new straps for the front driveshaft yoke installed. I was able to use my father-in-law's torch to notch out the Rusty's skid to clear the u-joint/driveshaft but I haven't got around to painting it so it can be re-installed yet (cutting it obviously left exposed metal so I need to paint it to prevent rust).
I was planning on going with Mt. Zion Offroad to Rausch Creek tomorrow but since we ended up adopting our dog and my wife has to work all day tomorrow I'm not going to be able to make it. My birthday is at the end of the month and I'm going to try and plan a trip up there that weekend to put the new suspension to the test.
The first step is to unclip the top of the stock air filter box. There are 5-6 clips around the box. Once they are all off you can pop the top of the filter box off. Then loosen the hose clamp around the throttle body and you can lift the whole intake tube and top of the filter box off as one unit. It is not necessary to loosen the clamp that connects the tube to the top of the filter box. Don't forget to unplug the air flow sensor that is near the throttle body, as shown in this picture. Also don't forget to disconnect the vent tube that runs from the valve cover to the intake tube. It should pop off without any difficulty.
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The next step is to finish removing the filter box from the engine compartment. Pull the stock filter out if you haven't already. Inside the box you'll see three bolts as shown in the picture. A couple socket extensions make this easier. Once the bolts are out you can remove and discard the filter box.
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Before you discard the stock intake tube, note that the air flow sensor you disconnected earlier has to be swapped over to the new intake tube. You should be able to twist it and gently pull it out. It might take a little work but eventually it will come out. The next thing you need to do is pop it into the rubber grommet in the new intake tube. Then assemble the rubber coupler that connects the tube to the throttle body with the supplied clamps. This goes on the end of the tube closest to the "Rock It" label. This picture shows the air flow sensor installed in the new intake tube installed on the throttle body.
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The last step is to install the tube on the throttle body and tighten the clamps. The little support arm on the tube attaches to the factory loom on the valve cover in an unused spot and just snaps in place. Lastly, install the filter on the open end of the tube and tighten the clamps. Re-connect the vent tube from the valve cover by trimming it to the new shorter length and pop it on the port on the new tube and you're all done. Here's the finished product.
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Re: Quick Update on my TJ project
personally I wouldn't mind if the stuff under my car was all CHROME, just as long as the body was the color/highlights I want. lol
personally I wouldn't mind if the stuff under my car was all CHROME, just as long as the body was the color/highlights I want. lol
Also, for posterity, here is a list of major things I want to do to the Jeep eventually when I get the money.
1) Swap front D30 out for D44.
2) Run OX lockers
3) 35" MTRs
4) Tube fenders of some sort
5) Full roll cage tied into frame
6) Winch
7) New bumpers
8) Rhino-line the inside
1) Swap front D30 out for D44.
2) Run OX lockers
3) 35" MTRs
4) Tube fenders of some sort
5) Full roll cage tied into frame
6) Winch
7) New bumpers
8) Rhino-line the inside
So in case you missed my other post I bent my tie rod rock crawling at Rausch Creek last weekend. I ordered a new tie rod from Big Daddy's Offroad that is bigger and supposedly 4x stronger than stock. Here's how the install went.
I decided to go ahead and buy new tie rod ends for the new tie rod (it uses factory rod ends) since a) the stock rod ends have almost 50k miles on them and b) I wouldn't mind having spares, just in case. This in itself is confusing because of the way they have the descriptions of which rod end is which in the computer at Auto Zone. It doesn't help that a couple manufacturers even have the wrong info. Here are the correct part numbers in case anybody is wondering. These part numbers are used by Moog and other manufacturers use the same number:
Tie rod end LH (Drivers) Outer - connects tie rod to Drivers side steering knuckle - ES3094L. Note that some manufacturers (Driveworks) incorrectly show this part number as connecting to the steering tie rod (i.e. connects the tie rod to the drag link), but this part number is actually the rod end that connects the tie rod to the driver's steering knuckle.
Tie rod end Passenger RH (inner) - connects tie rod to drag link - ES3095R
Tie rod end Passenger (inner) - connects drag link to pitman arm -ES3096L
The other part number is the whole drag link with the rod end built into it.
Ok, now that we have that cleared up and we have the right rod ends, start by applying anti-seize to the threads on the rod ends. Thread the lock nuts onto the rod ends and then thread the rod ends onto the new tie rod.
I decided to go ahead and buy new tie rod ends for the new tie rod (it uses factory rod ends) since a) the stock rod ends have almost 50k miles on them and b) I wouldn't mind having spares, just in case. This in itself is confusing because of the way they have the descriptions of which rod end is which in the computer at Auto Zone. It doesn't help that a couple manufacturers even have the wrong info. Here are the correct part numbers in case anybody is wondering. These part numbers are used by Moog and other manufacturers use the same number:
Tie rod end LH (Drivers) Outer - connects tie rod to Drivers side steering knuckle - ES3094L. Note that some manufacturers (Driveworks) incorrectly show this part number as connecting to the steering tie rod (i.e. connects the tie rod to the drag link), but this part number is actually the rod end that connects the tie rod to the driver's steering knuckle.
Tie rod end Passenger RH (inner) - connects tie rod to drag link - ES3095R
Tie rod end Passenger (inner) - connects drag link to pitman arm -ES3096L
The other part number is the whole drag link with the rod end built into it.
Ok, now that we have that cleared up and we have the right rod ends, start by applying anti-seize to the threads on the rod ends. Thread the lock nuts onto the rod ends and then thread the rod ends onto the new tie rod.
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