Help! Losing my mind

[mdsteeler]

Here is my situation...

I did the Carter/2100 swap and had it running great. I am using an electric choke. The next item was the TFI upgrade the next day.

That morning the jeep would not turn over and due to my stupidity I went ahead with the TFI upgrade. After numerous tries and hookups, I finally had some common sense and found a blown fuse, which I am guessing caused it not to start prior to the TFI upgrade that morning.

The final result is that my jeep won't start and it is blowing fuses without anything hooked up to the new ignition coil. How is that happening?

Here are my questions besides why I am blowing fuses without anything hooked up, which was not happening before.

1 - On the old ignition there were two wires going to the positive side and one wire to the negative side, but one of the positive side wires actually went into the bolt for the coil harness that kept it onto the block.

2 - Currently, I have two wires coming out of the firewall since I removed the one wire from the positive side off the old coil. One is red and one is green. The red used to test positive and the green wire has never tested anything.

3 - The new ignition coil has three wires like the old one, but the colors were reversed with two green going into one hole and one red going into the other hole.

What in the @#$#%$^ do I do now? I have nothing hooked up and the fuses are blowing when I put on the ignition.

 

[SteelHeadz]

I'm assuming that this is an I6 on a CJ or YJ? since you mentioned about the mc2100 swap. There is a red wire and one green wire originally when you first started. One end of the red wire goes from the starter solenoid and the other to the 2 pin connector of the ignition module. The coil wire is spliced into this line. This line is also a resistor wire that will not hold up to your upgrade. You need to replace this wire with a regular stranded wire so it would not cause an electrical fire under your hood(Been there done that) no fires though. The dark green wire is connected to the coil and the other end goes to the 4 pin connector of the ignition module. Do not ground either one of those 2 circuits or it WILL blow your ecm fuse.

 

[mdsteeler]

Thanks for the help. I diagnosed that I was not getting a signal from the green wire that connects to the ignition control module. Unfortunately, I did ground up both of those wires in my impatient wiring technique so I most likely blew something. I do get a signal from the plug coming out of the fuse box that connects to that module.

I am buying a new ignition module today and going from there. I also figured if the ECM is blown I could just do the Nutter Bypass instead of replacing it?