Got lifted, now I have questions.

[jps4jeep]

1066931

Well I spent the weekend lifting my 94 YJ,(pics to come) Well I have some questions and some issues!

I ordered 1/2 lift shackles from daystar, opened up the boxes and went to install and they sent me 3 correct shackles and 1 wrong shackle, good way to start the day!

As soon as I get the pics I am going to post them on my web site, I had issues with the jeep, hell put it this way, I used the plasma cutter a lot! (springs, bolts, swaybar links)

Now my questions, How to I get the pitman arm off. I have a pitman arm puller, a 1 5/16 socket, 3 foot breaker bar, and a torch, got that sucker nice and hot, and could still not break that connection! any advice. And no I am not weak it's on there!

Second I didn't install the brake lines yet cause I needed to work on monday and I knew I could street drive without them, whats the easiest way to remove the front line. It appears that if I remove the torx screw and spin the rubber line should do the trick?

Last question, I will eventually do a SYE but for now, TC drop kit will have to do, Am I supposed to be having problems keeping the transmission in 2nd and 4th gear, what is a temporary fix?

As soon as I get the SYE, I am going to get gears and 33's, should 4:56.1 gears be enough?

Should my rear track bar be all F#@$ed up, it did not want to fit in the space correctly, Seemed to want to sit at an angle due to the axel shims. Is there a better rear track bar extension than the one skyjacker makes?
Do they make a aftermarket rear track bar, cause I can't find one?

94 YJ 4.0 6 cyl, AX15 5 spd, np 231

Thanks all
Johnny

edited by: jps4jeep, May 06, 2003 - 02:09 PM[addsig]

 

[Tug-n-pull]

1066943

Can not help much but loose the rear track bar on th YJ you will be glad you did, I am now it is just a piece of scrap. Tug[addsig]

 

[RayOvac]

1066944

When I did my lift I tried and tried to get my pitman arm off and couldn't. So what I did was just put the lift on with my stock pitman arm. Then I headed down to a local shop to get my alignment done. I know the mech. there and he changed the pitman arms for me for free. He had a huge beefy puller that he put on there with a big impact gun after getting the nut off (with the same gun). He snugged the puller down then took and air chisel and hammered on the arm a bit and then switched back to the puller. After hitting it with the chisel again and then the puller the arm popped and started to come off.

Some people have problems with the transfer case kit causing binding but I never have with mine. My skidplate is lowered almost exactly one inch. I have no problems shifting into any gears or into 4lo. If you do have problems though you could do a little trimming on the transmission hump with some heavy snips....that should give you the clearance you need to go into gears (if you have problems)

About the rear track bar I would just take it off. My lift came with the relocation bracket but you had to drill and stuff and I was lazy so I just took the whole thing off. Many people run without them with no problems at all. I relocated the front because mine is a daily driver and removing that one can cause some ugly side effects (bump steer). You should be fine with the rear removed...I dont even notice much difference on mine.[addsig]

 

[Bounty__Hunter]

1066960

Try driving without the rear trackbar, you shouldn't notice a difference.

You'll have to notch the tub below the shifter boot to engage 2nd and 4th completely.

Rent a pitman arm puller, free from AutoZone. Crank it down tight, whack the arm where it surrounds the steering shaft with a BFH (Big hammer). Tighten, whack, tighten, whack, repeat. Don't use heat, you can ruin the seals in the steering box.[addsig]

 

[Jeff_C]

1066965

I ground my pitman with a 4" grinder in three places until it was paper thin and then it came off. Make sure you dont grind into the steering box shaft teeth if you go this route.

My brake lines were rusted bad. After I stipped the fittings on the front, a pair of vise grips got them. I paid 4 wheel parts to do the back ones.

I banged my center hump back with a hammer for 2,4 and reverse to work. After the SYE I banged the hump back into place.

I've been running without my rear trac bar for a year and havent noticed a difference. My kids say that it is a better ride in the back now.[addsig]

 

[Gspotracing]

1067013

pitman arm.sawsall a line straight up and down and it will pop right off. don't worry about the splines on the steering box,there hardened. I beat on mine for two days and couldn't get it off. :evil: [addsig]

 

[jps4jeep]

1067025

I figured that I would have to cut the transmission tunnel, I like to avoid cutting in to bare metal as much as possible, I live in the rust belt and road salt does not care that I have a jeep! I am most likly going to make that little modification this weekend. I am just gonna trim little by little with my plasma cutter till she slips nicly into gear, then herculine the hell out of the cut.

I think I am going to take the pitman arm to a reputable shop (the first time my jeep will have someone else's hands on her) If they break it or something, New steering box! and no money out my pocket for it!

I drive like 50+ miles a day (mostly in the inner city of boston) so I was unsure if the rear track bar was a needed but yall say it isn't, I might pull it off and see how I like it. As for the front, I am going to put new sway bar bushing to complimant the new quick diconnects. I am in the process of modifying the front track bar so that it will also be a quick disconnect for wheelin.

Unfortunatly I am going to have to wait another week to get my new brake lines on and the shackles. The guys over at Daystar are stand-up-fellows.

Thanks for all the info, I just need to use up the rest of the film and I will post all the picks

Johnny[addsig]