engine,trans combo. for my jeep build?

[dano12771]

Don't worry nothing is set in stone. I'm still just looking.
that's why I love this site. I can bounce ideas off people
who have experience and ideas in this area. I've been looking
on craigslist and came across a 94 chevy 350ci.$400, 4l60e
Trans$250, and transfer case( no discription)$150. What about
this combination?

 

[dano12771]

To many options. I'm having a hard time narrowing it down. 6cyl 8cyl 4cyl? Ford chevy amc? I'm having a hard time choosing. 70% daily driving 30% off road. What's the right set up for 35-37" tires. To much to look at on craigslist list. I want something I can grow with. Meaning, I don't need to get it done right away and I want to do it right without spending a small fortune. I guess I just need to comit. But what's the right motor? what's the right trans? Feeling a little overwhelmed. There's got to be a simpler way to make decision. You know like get this motor and this trans, boom that simple.

 

[Sid1966]

nothing wrong with a 390 had a few over the years.they respond really well to performance parts,it is a lot of motor for a cj,if it was my jeep i would want to keep it all jeep but if your looking for cheap and easy to find i hate to say it but a small block chevy has tons of aftermarket support and can be adapted to almost anything

 

[dano12771]

Hey guys, just wanted to touch base with you in my pursuit of the right donar vehicle for my jeep build up. I have the idea of going with a full size chevy 4x4 3/4-1ton truck. Looking to use the 350sbc the th400 trans and the np205 t-case. I was also going to run the full width14 bolt rear end and the front axles off this truck. I would prob get a set of off set rims to counter some the extra width. Unfortunately haven't found the right donar truck yet so I'm still looking. Just wanted to get some feed back from the professionals that's why I'm writting this. Any input would be great. I'm really learning a lot from my research. Figuring on running 35-37 inch tires just to give you an idea if what I have planned. Thanks for your input.

 

[BaconYJ]

The 14bolt is a bit of an anchor and very much so with 35" tires. This is what I am currently running and it does well but I have to becareful with tire placement.

Bacon

 

[dano12771]

When u said tire placement what did u mean? Also r u running offset rims to counter the wider axles?

 

[JohnnyO]

A 390 FE block Ford is a torquey sucker but also insanely heavy. It also has a very long skirt on the block and I don't know that you could get it low enough in the Jeep chassis. Might fit, might not, I don't know. Just saying what to look out for.
While a SBC is the most common swap, personally I favor a small-block Ford because the distributor is in the front of the motor which creates a bit less hassle and more room to work. It is possible to get a smaller diameter aftermarket distributor for the Chevy.
As far as being dirt cheap, an old 472 or 500 cube Cadillac motor isn't really much bigger or heavier than a SBC and has more than a little torque. Saw an old MB in a magazine a while back with a Caddy motor. You'd be on your own to fab up mounts and I'm pretty sure you'd be limited to an automatic transmission. It'd use a mess of gas though.
Best all-around motor swap is probably a 4.3 Chevy V6. Wrecked or clapped-out Astro vans cost about a nickel.

 

[dano12771]

well idid it here goes the wole story for those who have been helping me. it my sound familiar but this is the full story so here goes, i have a 1985 cj7 that came with the i4 motor t4trans dana 30 front axle and weak amc20 rear. i wanted to change the drivetrain and the motor(trans and t-case included) to something stronger so can i can run 35-37" tires and have more horse power. i recently found a 1987 chevy 1ton 4x4 w/a 454motor a t400 trans and a np205 t-case. the drivetrain has a ff 14bolt rear w/a d60 front. the research i did prior to buying this donar vehicle said, that this set up was the strongest. now i wasnt planning on using a 454bb but it came in the truck and had been rebuilt w/about 30,000mls on it. i drove 1-1/2hrs non stop home at 60-65mph with no problems. 4wheel drive works well and was planning on replacing some gaskets and doing some further inspections once i get it out of the truck ,but besides that i had planned on just running everything as is for now and making upgrades or changes as i figure out how everything is working. this vehicle will prob be used 70% on the road and 30% off road, even though its going to be on the road more then on the trails i would still rather make it set up more for off raod, since it is not my primary vehicle. my concerns are fitting the 454bb in, and the wider axles. i dont want to have the whole tire sticking out beyond the body. also can i run smaller rotor on the d60 so i can use bksping rims on the front and bk? sorry this is so long but i felt the more info you had the more accurate the responses could be. ive never done this technical of a build before so any input would be greatly appreciated.(input,ref, or other websiite) would be really helpful. thanks again

 

[BaconYJ]

When u said tire placement what did u mean? Also r u running offset rims to counter the wider axles?

I am running 3 inches of back spacing on my wheels because I was a fool and bought the 35s to fit on the stock 15" rims. Sheared the pinion off the d35 in the rear. I have always figured that if it breaks, upgrade it so that it will not break again (All good in theory just means a lot of down time and doing more wrenching). The stock 15" wheels would not fit over the MASSIVE calipers on my front 79 d60 so insteat of buying another set of tires went with the cheaper option of having custome wheels made. Yes, I am an idiot. Should have sold the 35s and picked up some steel wheels from a junk yard 16.5" or larger to clear the calipers and bought larger tires.

As for tire placement, it is more of being concious of what you are stradling so you don't get hung up on the massive 14bolt diff.

Bacon

 

[gearheadmb]

Where are you located in ohio? I'm in shelby county.

 

[Gantec]

well idid it here goes the wole story for those who have been helping me. it my sound familiar but this is the full story so here goes, i have a 1985 cj7 that came with the i4 motor t4trans dana 30 front axle and weak amc20 rear. i wanted to change the drivetrain and the motor(trans and t-case included) to something stronger so can i can run 35-37" tires and have more horse power. i recently found a 1987 chevy 1ton 4x4 w/a 454motor a t400 trans and a np205 t-case. the drivetrain has a ff 14bolt rear w/a d60 front. the research i did prior to buying this donar vehicle said, that this set up was the strongest. now i wasnt planning on using a 454bb but it came in the truck and had been rebuilt w/about 30,000mls on it. i drove 1-1/2hrs non stop home at 60-65mph with no problems. 4wheel drive works well and was planning on replacing some gaskets and doing some further inspections once i get it out of the truck ,but besides that i had planned on just running everything as is for now and making upgrades or changes as i figure out how everything is working. this vehicle will prob be used 70% on the road and 30% off road, even though its going to be on the road more then on the trails i would still rather make it set up more for off raod, since it is not my primary vehicle. my concerns are fitting the 454bb in, and the wider axles. i dont want to have the whole tire sticking out beyond the body. also can i run smaller rotor on the d60 so i can use bksping rims on the front and bk? sorry this is so long but i felt the more info you had the more accurate the responses could be. ive never done this technical of a build before so any input would be greatly appreciated.(input,ref, or other websiite) would be really helpful. thanks again

Dano I'm new here ( forum,Internet,) But I am doing almost the same build as you.Mine is a 1983 cj 7 . New driveline is a 599 block 6.5. Turbo diesel, Dana 60 narrowed too 60", modified 999 auto,Dana 300, 14 bolt narrowed too60", h1 12 bolt bead locks with run flats, with bfg baja second tread design ( think super swamper ssr) so for my opinion .... Big block fitting ? Don't know. But we just put a small block in a cj 7 and had to move it forward too fit the hei distributor and have some wiggle room which worked out well due to rear driveshaft length . We used a 2 ton cv( high angle driveline) and the tube length was 1.75 inches with the same trans ,transfer case combo you're using ? (400 short shaft np205) as for axles and rim offset.. My h1 wheels have massive offset and I cut the axles too 60" and the tires stick out 4" which let's them rub at lock to lock in front and full squish in the rear fixed it with some 2 " wheel spacers As for smaller rotors I've never seen any. Hope this helps ..

 

[dano12771]

Where are you located in ohio? I'm in shelby county.

I'm located in Toledo. Sorry it took so long to reply. Been working 7 days a week.

 

[dano12771]

Dano I'm new here ( forum,Internet,) But I am doing almost the same build as you.Mine is a 1983 cj 7 . New driveline is a 599 block 6.5. Turbo diesel, Dana 60 narrowed too 60", modified 999 auto,Dana 300, 14 bolt narrowed too60", h1 12 bolt bead locks with run flats, with bfg baja second tread design ( think super swamper ssr) so for my opinion .... Big block fitting ? Don't know. But we just put a small block in a cj 7 and had to move it forward too fit the hei distributor and have some wiggle room which worked out well due to rear driveshaft length . We used a 2 ton cv( high angle driveline) and the tube length was 1.75 inches with the same trans ,transfer case combo you're using ? (400 short shaft np205) as for axles and rim offset.. My h1 wheels have massive offset and I cut the axles too 60" and the tires stick out 4" which let's them rub at lock to lock in front and full squish in the rear fixed it with some 2 " wheel spacers As for smaller rotors I've never seen any. Hope this helps ..

Gantic, thanks for the info. I had a few ?s you might b able to answer. First what was the cost of shortening the d60 and 14bolt? Also did you mount your leaf spring mounts outside of the frame rails. 3rd, if you would have made your axles a little wider would you have not needed to use wheel spacers? Again thanks for the info. If u would like to send me any pics of your project or anymore tech info that would b very helpful. Thanks

 

[jps4jeep]

if he shortened to 60" I am assuming he used the stock wideth mounts for the frame, he probably converted to a 2.5" spring though. but that is my guess.

 

[black87yj]

depends on your skill. my buddy just bought an 84 chrokee chief with a 350 chev camaro 5 spd that lokks as good as stock. i put a 360 mopar 727 in my 87 yj and I love it. cherokee was 2500 bucs and mine cost me 250 bucs plus new rad and stuff all under 500 bucs....if you do the work, the sky is the limit.

 

[carnuck]

It doesn't say where you are, but I have an AMC 360/T18A/Dodge NP208 (RH drop) combo in running order for $500. You might need to swap the trans input shaft to a shorter one for the YJ. (This is all in Seattle)

 

[Gantec]

Gantic, thanks for the info. I had a few ?s you might b able to answer. First what was the cost of shortening the d60 and 14bolt? Also did you mount your leaf spring mounts outside of the frame rails. 3rd, if you would have made your axles a little wider would you have not needed to use wheel spacers? Again thanks for the info. If u would like to send me any pics of your project or anymore tech info that would b very helpful. Thanks

Sorr bout the wait been working ..narrowed too 60 and used spacers because of h1 wheel offset ( wanted to keep hubs inside wheel away from rocks) cost zero did it in my shop .. Springs still in stock location closer together better articulation.. Narrowing is easy with proper tools and certified welder as best friend! Only cost is is resplining front axle shafts 95.00 and new rear shafts 160.00 i think??? Can't remember. Any more ???? Let me know

 

[Sine Deviance]

98 was the last year that a C1500 had a 350, it is most likely a 4.7 or 5.3 if it is a V8, but the motor only will be useful. the 4l60e is a 2wd transmission, the cost to convert it is more than if you just source a 4wd transmission.

What he said. Be patient and keep looking.

Besides that, I have to recommend the 5.7L Vortec/4L60E combo. They get incredible MPG for a V8 and have tons of power stock. The swap is also fairly easy and straightforward (from what I have read at least) and since you'd be going to the 4L60E automatic you wouldn't have to worry about shifter placement.

The drawback to this swap is undoubtedly the price of admission; it's not nearly as expensive as a decent diesel swap, but it ain't even close to being cheap either. I'm planning to go with a low-mileage 5.7L Vortec and 4L60E out of a GMC 4WD truck donor, and it's going to cost about $2000 for the engine, trans, and everything else related to the engine/trans that I need to perform the swap. That doesn't include tools, motor mounts, exhaust, trans to t-case adapter, a power steering solution, a stronger rear diff, anything I might need to adapt the wiring harness, a better radiator, or any of the little misc stuff. When I add that stuff in it could easily turn into a $4000+ project, and that's with me doing the labor (which is why I'm still just 'considering' it and haven't rushed out to buy parts yet.)

 

[rubn1out]

91 ZR1 Vette motor with 700R4 for 600 bux. rebuilt both for 1200 bux.

 

[big_o_tom]

You should have a dana 300 x-case which is a very good case. Don't know much about the motor, bell housing or trans. I have a t-18 with the adaptor and a dana 20 x-case for $600 if interested. Nothing wrong with them, I took them out to put another t-18 with a dana 300 in my jeep. Also I have a 304 that I might part with. I took the 304 out and put a 401 in and I was thinking about swapping them back on account of fuel consumption. I'm about 45 min. north of knoxeville tn. if interested give me a call at 423-259-0470 ask for Tommy.