Computer bypass 2100 changeout

I was kinda thinking the same as you absolutemoon, it was running the other day so that kinda leads me to believe your dist is ok. As you said, once its running right then do the upgrades. It is posible though that the dist went south all of a sudden. If the nutter bypass was quick and simple, undo it and see if it starts then figure out what you did wrong, but it started after you did the bypass didn't it? if so then I wouldnt bother doing that. So, do I have this right?? You did the bypass and it ran, came back to the jeep at another time and no start, no spark. Is this where we are now and how we got here?
 
Yes. Installed carb, started. Did nutter, still ran. Installed new distrib. Still ran. Then out of nowhere, she just cut off. She was running at idle and just stopped. No funky noise or nothin. Just shut off like someone turned the key off. Clueless. That's what's ****ing me off is I got this to be able to work on it myself. No auto shop prices for diagnostics. 110 bucks an hour doesn't fly with me. Just got to take a deep breath and work through it.
 

yeah, i just refuse to take my jeep to a shop, or car for that matter but I don't know enough about the car to fix all of it problems, shops are just too much money. well, Ok I just wanted a recap on it all and am with you. lets take a deep breath and rest on it for the night. Its midnight here so Ill talk to you tomarrow.
 

yeah, DUH! that should have been one of the first things we looked at.. good catch.
 

I mean is there any other fuses other than these. I e under hood. Also there are two large cylinders at the top of fuse box. ????
 
I did a lot of searches this morning on this and it seem to come down to two thing in what I read. The pick up in the dist, or the ignition control module. a engine needs 3 things to run air, fuel, and spark. you have air and fuel, so that leaves spark (your ignition system) IE: coil, dist, module. you have replaced the coil and test power at the dist, only thing it can be that I see it the module. It was running then just shut off, that leads me to believe something went out suddenly (pick up, or module) or maybe something in the rewireing u did for the nutter (a short somewhere maybe). I would go over the wiring changes you did to make sure there are good connections and no shorts. I still think its the module though . I called the local autostore and they are $34.00 and they said they can test your current one.
 

Here is the latest am greatest. Nutter wiring - solid. Good connections. Fuses - good. Coil- replaced and has resistance. Icm - has power in and out. Dist - has power in but no fire. In my uneducated, waterlogged (with hops and barley of course) mind is it's the distributor. The only thing is - it's brand new. I put it in and reused the old rotor and cap. I realize things aren't brand new but reman'ed. But it worked when I put it in so I kinda ruled that out. I think I am changing my mind now. Going to put the old distrib back in and see what happens. At least I am confident elec system is working. I can handle a faulty distrib but man I hate f ing with elec. Pain in the ass.
 
Ok, the recent checks show power to and from coil, dist, module. I would do the same, put old dist back in and see what happens. take this as a learning experience, next time something happens under your hood you should be able to track to down pretty easily after all of this.. quick question, how did you check for spark at the plugs?? Can you see fuel squirting into the carb when you pull back on the throttle?
 
After reviewing the play........... The call on the field is confirmed. The old distributor does exactly what the new distributor did. Crank crank crank. I guess I'll be charged with a time out. Only other thing is replace cap and rotor I quess. Hei doesn't get here till next freakin Monday. Now I know how 8 0 8 is feeling.
 

Yea we have gas at throttle. I checked for spark two ways, with plug still in wire, hold up to ground bolt and crank motor and watch for spark. Second, unplug spark plug wire, insert screw driver and hold about 1/4 inch from ground bolt. The second one, I wasn't to happy with.
 
thats the way to do it. why do you say that about the second method? Did something happen when doing that? Just for giggles, if the nutter bypass was real quick and simple to do, undo it and put the wires back how they were and see what happens. Just trying to eliminate possiblities. With both dist not making a change, I just have a feeling that the HEI wont solve the problem. I have a lot of running to do today but will be thinking of solutions.. talk to ya later.
 
Nothing really happened. It was the look on my wifes face waiting to turn the key with me jamming a screwdriver in something that could knock me on my azz. I think she liked that way. I likes the other way. Ha ha
 

if you are getting power to the coil but no power past that, you guys are right. either ignition module of something in the distributor.

nobody near by with another jeep you can test your stuff on?

thats the trouble with internet trouble shooting, if we all lived close by, we could put your ignition on our jeeps and would know it ran
 
She is ALIVE!!!! I must have had a momentary lapse of judgment and reasonable thinking. You guys, don't be afraid to yell "hey dumb dumb!! Whatcha thinkin?". I must have had the whole hei thing in my head. I did not bypass the ignition, just the emissions. DUH!?!? New ICM and were off to time and tune again. Thanks guys for the patience and understanding as I am new to turnin a wrench. I'll be darned if I didn't learn a WHOLE lot about my CJ this week.
 
I think y'all know what happens next....ha ha ha ha
 

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