CJ7 won't start...just get a "click"

05renegade

New member
Ok, after getting to drive around for a month my CJ decided not to start...all I get is a "click" which I am assuming is the solenoid. I have replaced the starter and solenoid but this did not help. I tried the light test where I turn on the lights when attempting to start and once I get the click the lights get killed. No gradual dimming...they immediately go out. I pulled a new battery out of my Liberty and I still got the same click so I don't think its the battery.

Any suggestions?
 

Make sure the battery cables are clean and tight on their connections.
 
From your symptoms, I would suspect battery, but you said you've tried a "good" one (are you sure?!?!). Does the CJ have a voltage regulator? I'm not real good on all the new-fangled stuff (too many "sensors"), but back in the day (the CJ days), things were a lot simpler. Maybe a bad ground somewhere????

Wish I could be of more help.


TJ owner mud
 
I'm pretty sure that they are ok as I had everything disconnected at one point, I know they are are nice and tight. I'll check for any corrosion that I missed. Can the ignition key lock switch cause this? I noticed my voltmeter flutters as I turn the key. I didn't notice this before.
 

It's ironic, but the Liberty's battery is brand new as it went out about a month ago! I put it back into the Liberty and its starting just fine. It's really wierd, I did not have one problem starting it and then all of a sudden this happened. I started it, drove it about a block and then it wouldn't start again. As far as a regulator, I'm not really sure, but I'll check up on it.

thanks!
 
Greetings... it does sound like a battery lead problem to me. I know you've checked the wires for corrosion where they connect to the battery... but, have you checked the ground (negative) wire where it attaches to the frame/engine of the Jeep?

These type problems are a pain, for sure. Good luck with it!

Pwells
 
Check your grounds on the battery cables.Also check the ground for the solenoid.I know you said you put in a new solenoid but I would test it.Easiest way to test it is to use jumper cables and bypass the solenoid all together.
 

Check your grounds on the battery cables.Also check the ground for the solenoid.I know you said you put in a new solenoid but I would test it.Easiest way to test it is to use jumper cables and bypass the solenoid all together.

quite right.

if the starter motor won't spin with a full 12v, then you have an eggshaped bearing on the starter shaft allowing the armature to ground.

make sure the bendix isn't jammed and engine is free

it's most likely just a bad connection on the big wire and won't pass the amperage. the actual connection mating surface can be the fault, or it can be between the wire and wire end internal...just because you have a clean connection doesn't insure the wire passes continuity inspection.

solenoid contacts can also be at fault.

jump it right right from the battery positive to the big terminal and see if it spins...if not, double check you have a good ground between the starter motor and the block (and frame)...if no spin, then it's a starter motor.
 
try jumper cables (ground on battery to block, positive to the starter main terminal) and see if it goes. The ground on the motor REALLY sucks from the factory. I see them come loose a LOT!
 
Last weekend I faced the same gremlin, turned out the substandard NAPA starter had worn its front bushing to the point that the starter bound up against the flywheel. There was no way to discover this until I pulled the starter and looked at the nose.
 

That's interesting..... I've checked all the cable connections, I have installed a new starter and solenoid and I took the battery to Autozone and it tested fine. I am now looking at the ignition key lock cylinder. It's acting really weird. Originally I could start the Jeep without using a key which is a problem in itself and I can now rattle the cylinder and it will change the output when attempt to start it. Sometime it kicks and sometimes it doesn't. I needed to get in there and fix my turn lever switch anyway so what the hell...........

The Jeep wave means more and more to me each time I drive it! :)

Thanks everyone for you input....I'm sure I'll eventually find out what is going on!!!!
 
I have an aftermarket steering wheel that I've taken off, but there is a metal plate blocking the turn lever switch and the key lock. Please tell me I headed in the right direction!
 

Your at the wrong spot.. the ignition switch is at the lower section of the column, above the brake pedal area. The one on the column is the mechanical section of the ignition that's linked by a rod down to the lower column.
 
I replaced the one at the base of the column last year, but the mechanical one I have not an its the one that doesn't seem right. Could the mechanical one cause weird symptoms like this?
 
If the ignition tumbler where the key inserts to is not binding or not loose, then it's either the rod inside the column is bent or the switch on the base of the column is mis-adjusted if not bad due to a faulty contact. If you look at the mounting tabs of the switch, you will notice that it's an elongated hole (Slotted). This enables you to adjust the switch up or down to its proper setting according to the key position. You can verify the switch by removing it off the column, with the wiring connected to the switch, attempt to start the vehicle with a small screw driver in place of the rod. If it starts normally without hesitation or intermittent crank, i would assume that the switch is good and just needs to be adjusted properly on the base of the column.
 

I would say it is a short somewhere - check the grounds on the wires
 
I have an 81 Renegade here in Finland - I've had the same problem. Your negative battery cable goes to a relay block and the connections at that relay are the most likely problem. Clean them all. Most old CJ electrical problems tend to be caused by grounds. As I work through mine, I replace all wires for things that fail - eventually I'll have replaced all of the wiring ;)
 
OK I'm back! The problem wound up being the starter cable. I replaced it along with the battery cables and now it starts right up - huge difference with the new starter. I also wound up replacing my key lock ignition cylinder (it was broken, but not the problem) and turn signal cam in the steering column. So far everything is working like it should. Thanks for all the advice!
 
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