Cj5 shackle question

littlesdrag

New member
I'm look'n at shackles for my 79' renegade. There are different sizes like 3/8", 1 3/4", 1 3/8" etc.. What does that mean? Do you gain any lift with shackles?
I'm installing 4" suspension lift springs. Do you think I should replace the factory shackles? They look like there in good shape. Thanks for the help....
 

Also is there a need for a drop pitman arm. Jc Whitney can't answer me questions. That's what's great about Jeepsters. We all help one another to get us all on the trail.
 
The general rule of shackles is 2" longer equals one inch of lift. As for the dropped pitman arm, 4" lift and higher a dropped pitman is recommended.
 
The sizes you are referring to are the amount of lift they provide. I don't recommend longer shackles because of the relatively narrow front springs found on cj's. They have a tendency to cause the axle to move side to side as you steer. I do recommend a good set of heavy duty grease able shackles. They help to smoothen out the ride.
 

I'm not sure that this sizes refer to the amount of lift - I always thought they meant how much longer than stock they are. A shackle that is 2 inches longer than stock will only provide an inch or so of lift.

The factory shackles on my old CJ7 were just two flat pieces of metal, and I'm with 808CJ7 in that it wouldn't be a bad idea to replace them with some nice greasable ones.
 
I agree with the above. The factory shackles are not very good, I would stay with the stock shackle lenght or close to it. Yes, you need a pitman arm as well. With the 4" lift it would be a good Idea to drop the transmission and transfer case crossmember an 1" to aleave the driveshaft ujoint angles.
 

Using longer shackles to gain lift is always a bad idea; maybe up to an 1” is OK but nothing more. Think about the force placed on the spring hangers at the frame and at the spring eyes with the OEM shackles using stock tires sizes as the things flex. Add taller shackles and bigger tires with some off angle torque at the fulcrum points to the mix and something is bound to give. Then there is the general slop and wander you will experience in the steering; if you want lift do it with springs.
 
If you bought a decent lift, it should come with shims for the rear springs. The shims go between your axle tube and your spring and should tilt your rear end so that the ujoint angles won't bind.
You do not want to shim the front though. I had a 79 cj7 and had to shim the rear and drop the trany crossmember. All the tcase member drop is, is a 1" spacer between you framerail and your crossmember. you could use 1" square tubing for the tcase drop and do it yourself and save some cash. I bought my tcase drop, and it looked like someone took a peice of pipe about the size of a broom handle and cut it into 1" sections, I thought I could have made this better myself. To add to the longer shackles debate. When you add longer shackles up front, it tilts your front axle which affects your steering and also makes your ujoint angle up front worse. This is why people say to stay around the 1" length if you get longer ones, anything beyond that and you can start having problems. If you are looking for a little extra lift when you add your suspension lift, I think you would be better off adding a 1" body lift. If you go bodylift, stay below 3" or you can run into problems there.
 
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