6 weeks ago I had 2 wheel front disc brake service (replaced brake pads, resurface rotors) done to my 2004 Jeep WranglerX. Since this was done and I get to my destination I smell the scent of burnt rubber. It goes on and off. Today my brakes locked and struggling to get home and finally arrived at the destination my front left breaks were smoking. I called the service place and explained what happened and now they tell me they need to check it to see if it is the calipers. This is what you mentioned above: "Now that are brake pads are out, we’ll need to push the piston into the caliper slightly. You do this because the new brake pads will likely be larger than the old ones (the old ones had some of their material worn away. Just position it like below and tighten down until the piston is flush with the caliper." I am thinking they did not push the piston back into the caliper ot make it flush and left it as it was and therefore causing this. OR "torque the bolts down to 11 ft lbs." Could they have torqued them down to a different weight? OR "Now you’ll need to reinstall the caliper on the rotor. There are notches on the brake pads that fit on the caliper slides (part of the steering knuckles). " Could they have done this incorrectly or not tightened enough and slid from the knuckles? I am unemployed and being taken for a ride since I am a woman. I can pay for the work but not to be scammed. What do you advise I do or tell them.
Brake problems
- Thread starter Izzy
- Start date
Izzy,
I've moved your post from the brake pad how to, and into it's own thread.
As to your problem, it sounds to me like you've got a bad caliper, and it doesn't sound to me like the shop is at fault. Calipers can fail at any time, and there's no way to know by looking at them. The worst part is that you may need a new left caliper, along with pads and maybe a rotor (high heat can warp your rotors).
The reason that you need to press the piston back into the caliper during the reinstall is just to get everything together. Once the brakes are reassembled and you press the pedal, the piston moves back out, and into the proper position.
Do your brakes (specifically the left front) work sometimes but not others?
I've moved your post from the brake pad how to, and into it's own thread.
As to your problem, it sounds to me like you've got a bad caliper, and it doesn't sound to me like the shop is at fault. Calipers can fail at any time, and there's no way to know by looking at them. The worst part is that you may need a new left caliper, along with pads and maybe a rotor (high heat can warp your rotors).
The reason that you need to press the piston back into the caliper during the reinstall is just to get everything together. Once the brakes are reassembled and you press the pedal, the piston moves back out, and into the proper position.
Do your brakes (specifically the left front) work sometimes but not others?
xt master
New member
They would have had to push the piston back in or they would have never got the caliper back on the rotor.Personally I dont believe in resurfacing the rotor,The reasoning behind it is it makes the rotor thinner and weaker.With that said,it would not have anything to do with your problem just my opinion.
Now your problem could be caused by a few small problems.
1.The caliper failed and is sticking....Fix replace the caliper and brakes.
2.The brake pad was installed incorrectly..fix reinstall brake pad.
3.They did not clean the slider for the brake pad..fix remove the brake pad and caliper..on the top and bottom where the brake pad touches the caliper.Take a small hammer and a flat head screw driver and lithely tap the screw driver across the surface to remove and small amounts of debris or rust.Now before reinstalling the brake pads also put a small amount of brake grease on these slides.
I had this problem with my wife's car last year after I replaced the brakes.I spoke to a couple people at different garages and this was all of there solutions.I did exactly that and have not had any more problems in over a year.Depending on how bad your new pads are you may still want to replace them.If you just had them done at a shop they may give you some type of a warranty.
Now your problem could be caused by a few small problems.
1.The caliper failed and is sticking....Fix replace the caliper and brakes.
2.The brake pad was installed incorrectly..fix reinstall brake pad.
3.They did not clean the slider for the brake pad..fix remove the brake pad and caliper..on the top and bottom where the brake pad touches the caliper.Take a small hammer and a flat head screw driver and lithely tap the screw driver across the surface to remove and small amounts of debris or rust.Now before reinstalling the brake pads also put a small amount of brake grease on these slides.
I had this problem with my wife's car last year after I replaced the brakes.I spoke to a couple people at different garages and this was all of there solutions.I did exactly that and have not had any more problems in over a year.Depending on how bad your new pads are you may still want to replace them.If you just had them done at a shop they may give you some type of a warranty.
Thank you ALL for your assistance. I may have to take it back to the shop. The new breaks have a 12 mo warranty, if I go elsewhere I may have to pay extra for a new rotor and pads. This is the first time it locked. The jeep was driving beautifully in the beginning but lately I felt is truggled while climbing. I live in Western North Carolina, very hilly and bumpy around here. Thanks again.
Last edited:
Kate
New member
I JUST went through this with my own rig! Mine is an 06 Rubi with just under 60k miles on it.
OBM replaced my brake pads all the way around and I had trouble with the D/S rear hanging up. It only happened twice after we went trail riding and then I went on the highway. I would smell burning brakes and when I stopped it was definitely smokin.
After inspection he diagnosed it as the caliper needing help with the piston.
We were able to get a rebuild kit at NAPA for about $12 out the door. That does both sides. Replacement caliper $50, rebuild kit $12. Seemed like a logical choice to me.
He just installed the kit yesterday. So I should be good to go!
My point is, that you may be able to save some serious cash if all you have to do is rebuild it instead of replacing it.
OBM replaced my brake pads all the way around and I had trouble with the D/S rear hanging up. It only happened twice after we went trail riding and then I went on the highway. I would smell burning brakes and when I stopped it was definitely smokin.
After inspection he diagnosed it as the caliper needing help with the piston.
We were able to get a rebuild kit at NAPA for about $12 out the door. That does both sides. Replacement caliper $50, rebuild kit $12. Seemed like a logical choice to me.
He just installed the kit yesterday. So I should be good to go!
My point is, that you may be able to save some serious cash if all you have to do is rebuild it instead of replacing it.
