automatic shift lever

[Scotts cj7]

On my 85 cj7 with automatic trany the tf 999. The shift lever on the column will not stay in drive while im driving. When I hit a bump in the road it falls down into low gear. There is no detent to hold it in a selected gear.What is worn and how do I find it and fix it thanks for any help this is keeping me from driving.

 

[JPNinPA]

Oops you said auto.

 

[69jeepcj]

I don't know much about the auto columns but you could swap it to a floor mounted shift. I think I have seen the shifters at pepboys. Should be a pretty simple swap.

 

[greg92jeepxj]

I have read your post and this strikes me as very strange. Even if the spring inside the column jacket were missing or broken , the column linkage shouldn't move that easily. That would mean the weight of the lever , column shift tube and linkage rod are moving the lever on the transmission with ease. The torque filter 727 and 999 has two levers mounted one above the other . One is the kick down and the other is the shift lever which is supposed to have detention inside the transmission . I would suggest disconnecting the linkage rod under the hood at the bottom of the column where it breaks through the firewall and try the linkage by hand to feel it's movement and at the transmission as well. You'll want to be sure you've got positive detention inside the transmission . I believe you should as there is a ratcheting mechanism that holds the lever in the position selected . If that's ok , then the weight of the column lever is putting all its weight on the lower column lever and linkage rod and transmission lever. With the linkage rod removed at the lower column lever on the engine side of the firewall , feel the column lever movement . If there is no positive detention as you've posted , there may be some extensive disassembly. The first thing to check is to remove the through pin that holds in the column shift lever ( it punches out through the bottom) and look inside . There should be a spring that will control movement and produce tension toward the steering wheel. It may be hard to see but you can use a screw driver or angled pick to probe for it . That is what pushes the shift lever back toward the dash for the positive detention we're looking for. I'm not sure that you can get to that spring easily or not through the square hole where the shift lever mounts . It may be long for tension and wide circumference wise for strength so it's questionable if you can remove it through the hole as mentioned. You will have to be sure that is what's wrong since upper column disassembly is very involved . It requires a steering wheel puller , lock plate compressor , tilt column pin removal tool ( if tilt column ) and an array of other tools as you go along. It's accomplisable in your hands as long as you've got the special tools . The wheel remover and compressor shouldn't be too hard to get or maybe rent but you'll have to track down a tilt pin removal tool . I don't see them too often unless a mom and pop auto store has one . OTC makes one so it can be gotten off a tool truck . Just hoping you don't have to go this length but wanted to give the heads up should it fall this way.
P.S. - that aftermarket kit 69jeepcj posted is sounding more appealing .

 

[Scotts cj7]

Thank you. I do not have any detent at the trany were the shift rods attach. Can it be repaired by dropping the pan. I have looked at the LocKar shifters but their not cheap. Thanks for the help.

 

[greg92jeepxj]

Thank you. I do not have any detent at the trany were the shift rods attach. Can it be repaired by dropping the pan. I have looked at the LocKar shifters but their not cheap. Thanks for the help.

Sorry for the delay in reply . I have pasted a camera shot from my 1992 Chrysler factory service manual. The transmission in this year is referenced as a 32RH . That is the predecessor of the torque flite 999. For your purposes , your transmission will be referenced to as the TF 999. I just used the shop manual 32RH as reference as this is the only material I have. The photo shows the mechanism and you'll notice detent positions . Hoping it won't be necessary to pull off the pan take a trans fluid shower just for inspection purposes. But you will notice too that there is a detent ball and spring . Yes , this is a possibility. However , may I suggest first that you remove the throttle lever and shift lever noting their exact position for reassembly ( just to make life easier ) and feel the movement . Without any linkage installed , just wondering if any difference will be expected. Yes , trying to,save you work but also trying to figure this out with you as well. You see , the steering column dosen't generally have detent positions for each position . It will have gates to separate park from reverse , reverse from neutral . It must separate neutral from reverse so that accidental engagement from reversal trainer to drive is not easily accomplished. Neutral to drive is for other reasons ( like nasty neutral drops ! Very abusive however ) . These positions only have the gates as mentioned and from drive the column lever will need to be pulled toward you to select 2nd & 1st. Although I mentioned there are no detents , there are gates. It is the responsibility of the transmission to provide the "click" in the detent we are seeking. With the linkage disconnected from the column and the transmission , I would suggest to trying these gates on the column and detents on the transmission. I realize you posted there are no detents but we still need to know exactly what is occurring when the column shift is lit through its movement. More importantly , what is happening when the transmission shift lever is moved through its positions . CAUTION : chock the wheels securely . We don't want jeeps rolling over our members and causing property damage . You'll also want all the stress off the transmission to select positions easily. You may want to raise the rear wheels off the ground to make it easier as well. Please use Jack stands ? That makes me happy . Hoping you won't have to pull the pan off , but this post helps to serve you what the parts look like and how they may be affecting your jeeps transmission. There is the possibility you'll have to re-adjust the shift lever ( don't remember if there is a notch for the clamp to grab ) but pay attention the kick down lever mount position . You'll want it back the way it was providing the transmission was shifting right before hand.

 

[greg92jeepxj]

Thank you. I do not have any detent at the trany were the shift rods attach. Can it be repaired by dropping the pan. I have looked at the LocKar shifters but their not cheap. Thanks for the help.

Sorry , forgot to include these photos in my last post. You notice a park rod . One end has an adjustment and the other , a plunger surface. Please ensure the plunger surface is mounted in a casting in the case casting hole with a spring loaded action if it comes to having to drop the pan. This plays a part in the detent action.

 

[Scotts cj7]

Thank you greg. I have had all shift rods off working on belcrank bushings. There is no resistance moving the shift main lever. I feel that the kid I bought the cj from was slamming it from drive low to reverse while in the woods. It came from the white mountains. The trany has a few drips anyway so I think I will have to drop the pan anyhow. I will try to print those pages thank very much for your help. I am also having carb problems but I will bother you with that later. Thanks again Scott

 

[greg92jeepxj]

Your welcome Scott. Wishing the best . Looking forward to inspection results . In advance , thank you for sharing with us. Not only will it benefit others , but we always hope there is someone who had an experience of this nature and can help out as well. Rotten kid , no respect for vintage iron. CJ's don't grow on trees these days .

 

[Scotts cj7]

It will be a little while before I get to it but I will post what I find. I am also having issues with the steering it steers like a boat. I have to keep correcting left to right. Is this an issue with the steering gear box ? I appreciate the help you have been giving me. I do auto body repair and restoration. I am far from a master mechanic. Thanks again.

 

[Scotts cj7]

Hi greg Can I buy an earlier carburetor other than the original bbd. All of the electrical hook ups are either missing or not hooked up to power. All the wiring on this cj has been butchered. When I come to a stop in drive it stalls no matter what changes I make to the adjustments. I have just put this cj on the road so these are some of the gremlins I have to work out.

 

[greg92jeepxj]

Hey Scott ! Glad your a auto body man , that's half the battle right there ! A person can be the best mechanic but if their ride is a rotten piece of junk , the finest running engine won't do any good in a God awful looking rust bucket. I shouldn't talk , I got to do something with my rocker panels soon . I could patch weld to them but once I grind past the work area ( a nice way of saying ROT HOLES !) I'm concerned how much more patch will be needed . I know I should just drill ALL 100 or so spot welds and replace them as a whole but if I can preserve the rest of the panel (and their still solid) it will make it the job easier.
Ok , enough about me , this is Scottscj7's thread . Before trying a steering box adjustment , you will need to inspect the front end. Upper and lower ball joints and all,steering linkage. Once we know they're all good ( if replacement is needed) then you'll have a better idea if steering box adjustment is needed.

 

[greg92jeepxj]

Hi greg Can I buy an earlier carburetor other than the original bbd. All of the electrical hook ups are either missing or not hooked up to power. All the wiring on this cj has been butchered. When I come to a stop in drive it stalls no matter what changes I make to the adjustments. I have just put this cj on the road so these are some of the gremlins I have to work out.

I once wasted time on rebuilding a BBD on a slant six 225 in a dodge truck. It worked but it sucked. A better carburetor for the 258 I6 is a motorcraft 2150 but better yet any Holley 2 bbl. I don't remember the Holley model # for the 2bbl replacement for the motorcraft 2150 but I personally like a Holley. I put one on a V8 360 I used to own (uses) and thought the carb just worked better. Didn't do anything milage wise but it just ran better. The motorcraft is ok even with its temperamental power valve issues sometimes but the Holley is simple and less prone to failure , I think. Easier to rebuild too. Motorcraft 2100 & 2150 carbs aren't too tough to rebuild but you would like a Holley better. It sounds like the BBD in your jeep now most likely has a heavy float and is causing a rich condition and some flooding to a degree. Before diving into rebuilding it , search for motorcraft and Holley 2BBL carb replacements and make your determination there . Of course new (remanufactured ) will be $$ but a used one may need work too. The butcher job to the wiring harness will have to be addressed. As previously mentioned , the best running engine is worthless without a good body. Well , the same goes for the wiring. The dodge I spoke of is proof. A friend once bought it cheap . We "woke" it up and got it running even with a lousy carb and fuel,pump. But the wiring harness was shorting out in several places. Couldn't even drive it home. You'd be surprised at people's excuses for a repair. The guy fixes a valve cover leak and traps a couple of wires causing shorts to the ignition module ! If you can sort out what seems to be disturbed wiring from un-disturbed , that will help narrow down your work load. I'm sure you know just by looking under the hood that everything will need to be inspected. What dosen't help is that former owner ( rotten kid) used this jeep to learn on. Well , you've been very intuitive and keep this jeep rolling under its own power so we know you'll forge on . I respect you turning to jeepz.com for help so we'll do what we can too.

 

[greg92jeepxj]

I should have posted this before , forgot in my haste. The fuel pump ( mechanical ) needs to be checked as far as pressure is concerned. To check it , you'll need a vacuum gauge with a fuel pump adapter ( a rubber boot) . You place the gauge and rubber boot on the suction port ( where the fuel line from fuel tank goes) and crank the engine ( disable the ignition for this test ) . A good reading is usually between 5-7 psi . Anything less is poor. If you find you'll need one , it's not difficult to change , two bolts mount it and two ( or three ) lines. When loosening the bolts , if resistance is found , turn the crankshaft by hand using the harmonic balancer bolt until pressure is off the mechanical arm . A fuel pump eccentric which can either be a camshaft lobe (Chevy engines) or an offset round cam like part that bolts to the upper timing gear pumps the mechanical arm . You just want to turn the engine until the "bump" is past the arm. Then bolt the new one in. You may want to pack grease in the pump,where the mechanical arm fastens to the pump . Chevy pumps were recommended for this. Off the top of my head , carb problems usually are because of dirt , fuel logged float causing rich comdition , and worn or stuck parts internally. Power valves in motorcraft carbs blow out and power Pistons in carbs like the BBD get stuck or the vacuum port gets carbonated. Please , before buying a carb , diagnose the fuel system first. Folks have put new carburetors on and forgot to replace a fuel filter and blame the carb , for instance. Hope this helps .

 

[Scotts cj7]

Thanks greg this info gives me good places to start with these gremlins. I like Holley's also so I will research a two barrel for it. I once had a j4000 with a 401 and a holley two barrel carb. I think that the transmission will be one of the first things I tackle.

 

[greg92jeepxj]

Your welcome Scott . Just glad I was able to assist. I agree that the transmission is the first place to start. Also gives more time to think about the carburetor. Wishing you luck .

 

[Scotts cj7]

Is the Holley 2300 the carb that fits the258. I believe it is a 350cfm. I think my best bet is to go for a carb that is for a non emissions application. Electric choke if possible.

 

[greg92jeepxj]

It's been so long since I had a Holley 2bbl , i put it on my '78 Cherokee 360 . At was back in the '80's . Sold the truck in '92. What a mistake. But anyway , I googled it to see how close today's model is to what I had. I truly don't remember exactly what model mine was as I remember the fuel line having a straight input like the single pump four bbl's but the picture looked like it should go. Of course you may have to rebend steel fuel line or plum in rubber gas line but throttle linkage , kick down , vacuum , etc. is a concern too. But usually if ordered to application the throttle body ( lower part of carb) is the deciding factor since it has to mount on your intake. Throttle linkage and kick down are equally important since it had to work and not be a " universal fit" which you don't want to be buying more adapters just to get it to work . Been there , done that. It sucks. Try for the best fit the first time. Hopefully you'll be ab,e to speak to someone when you order it to get the right application and hoping it's someone really knowledgable . If you can get away with non-emissions control on your state , great . We"lol deal with the emissions garbage that currently on your engine now ( if still there) . Try to note what is currently on the BBD now to make it easier to deal with later. I'm actually more concerned with the vacuum advance of your distributor and wondering how many ports are tied up above and below the throttle blades that may have to be contended with. If you can get away with trashing all of it , that will be a blessing. But the EGR valve will still have to be dealt with. Just some food for thought but do try to make a note of what the existing carb has now. I don't know what kind of butchering the kid did but we"lol deal with it. If the distributor is still stock , we"ll see what vacuum it needs . Like , can it be just plugged into the distributor vacuum port ( above the throttle blades ) or does it need to have its signal modified like all the emissions garbage was famous for. Let us know what you find out with the carb but if that 2300 model is list d for the replacement , I like it. Don't know if there is an off road two barrel like the avenger four barrel that is designed to prevent float bowl slosh and bog but if so , that would be neat. That was my only complaint . Used to lose power going uphill due to that on my 360 . Needed an electric pump bit I didn't keep the truck to advance to that stage. Hope you won't need this but we"lol keep it on the back burner.

 

[Scotts cj7]

I spoke with summit today. I can get a Holley but I may need an adapter plate to mount the carb. I have to measure my intake manifold to find out. I will do more research at Summit racing. This cj seems as if he did the nutter bypass witch I still don't quite understand. Under hood wiring was a mess. The vacuum lines were everywhere. I do have a manual that is helping a lot getting this back in working order.

 

[greg92jeepxj]

I guess I had to expect that this jeep would be "modified" to some extent. It's rare to find a CJ that someone didn't apply their personal touch or try to improve on what AMC passes for an emissions compliant vehicle. Yes , it's sure to be a project but as long as you've got the labor of love in your veins , you'll get the wiring right over time and the vacuum lines in place providing the wiring and vacuum diagrams are accurate and correctly detail your model . Replacement wiring harness is sometimes a problem like that from what we hear . Many a post over replacement harnesses . If you've got the original harness and can work with it , give it your best. Aside from anything missing , it's sure to be accurate for the application intended compared to a one size fits all . Vacuums lines can be trying to but as long as you've got the right size tubing (inside diameter) it's just a matter of point "A" to point "B" and the right length. I've not gotten a handle on the nutter bypass since I never had any intentions of ever using it . I , like you , would just upgrade to a better carb and ignition and be done with it. I'm surprised the engine will need an adapter . You would expect there to be a throttle body readily available for the 258 for the 2bnl Holley. But I agree that the wiring and vacuum line issues should be worked out first. You'll want to know your engine is ready for the replacement carburetor and not have to spend time after you get the new carb.