AMC 20 IS in TJ

J

jeeptjon37's

New member
HIYA!,
I was looking at the AMC 20 IS axle for my TJ but every time i search it on google i only get CJ. Is this a feasible swap for a TJ. I was looking for an axle that could hold 38's because im gonna run 37's and want a strong axle.

On the other hand (or end) i was thinking of a dana 50 for the front axle. I havent done any research on that yet but thought i hear you opinions.

Gracias,
Tom
:cookout::party::cookout::flamethro:MDB2::mad: :thisthreadisworthle

PS:anybody got pics of either axle?


Oh and what about a 9.5 AAM front axle?
 
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Guessing you don't know much about axles after reading the post. Might want to do a little research on your own before just picking out 2. It would take a bit of building on a 20 to hold 37s. The 50 as far as I can find is found in 99+ F250s and would have a metric 8 lug pattern and AMC 20s have 5 and 6 lug.
I've noticed you have posted about engine swaps, trans, t-case and now axles. What exactly are you wanting to build and what for or do you even know? Not trying to be a jerk just wondering.
 
If I'm not mistaken the d50 is a d60 housing with a d44 gearset, or something similar.

To withstand 37" tires I'd run a d60 front and rear, nothing less.

From reading all your posts and getting the feeling you don't have much experience, why are you so set on running 37" tires? I'd strongly recommend starting small and learning your jeep inside and out while it has moderately sized tires. You will gain invaluable experience if you learn to wheel on smaller tires and work your way larger as your experience increases.
 
The point of my build is to have a sick off road vehicle with on road excellence.
Now i am new to this started maybe a year ago and have wheeled it stock plenty. Now, building it up starting with 33's then 35's and so on would increase my $$$$$$ in the project greatly. I read a lot of books on this. The four wheelers bible 2nd edition by Jim Allen is where i got this idea for the axles. My reasoning for 37's is that i was going to run some pretty difficult trails. Now im no mechanic so it would be pretty bad to break something, but that is inevitable. Now this jeep is going to a shop to be fixed up. I was not picking my axles randomly. i was originally thinking of a 8.8 and 44 but the book said those could only hole 35's under moderate conditions. so changed the game plan. Now one last note, i am not jumping right into moab, i am going to build up my skills until i become ready. Maybe gain some tips along the way.

Tom


GM 12 bolt thoughts?????

front end hmmmm anything?
 
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jeeptjon37's said:
The point of my build is to have a sick off road vehicle with on road excellence.
Now i am new to this started maybe a year ago and have wheeled it stock plenty. Now, building it up starting with 33's then 35's and so on would increase my $$$$$$ in the project greatly. I read a lot of books on this. The four wheelers bible 2nd edition by Jim Allen is where i got this idea for the axles. My reasoning for 37's is that i was going to run some pretty difficult trails. Now im no mechanic so it would be pretty bad to break something, but that is inevitable. Now this jeep is going to a shop to be fixed up. I was not picking my axles randomly. i was originally thinking of a 8.8 and 44 but the book said those could only hole 35's under moderate conditions. so changed the game plan. Now one last note, i am not jumping right into moab, i am going to build up my skills until i become ready. Maybe gain some tips along the way.

Tom

GM 12 bolt thoughts?????

front end hmmmm anything?
Click to expand...

HP 44 front maybe and a 9 inch rear would be lighter and you would have more clearance
 
12 bols are junk. Skip the 44 if you really have to have 37s because if that's your starting point you will be board with them within a year and want more. Wish I had never built my front 44 and just started with a 60. That being said, no axle is bullet proof. I run chromos front and rear in mine and have broken both running 35s (front HP44 and ff60 rear). It all has to do with what kind of terrain you plan to run.
As for something that is sick offroad and great on the street, there is no such thing. If you want it to work well offroad it will suffer on the street and vice versa. It's one of those things offroaders learn to live with. That is why people who wheel their rigs hard have a seperate daily driver and some of us trailer them due to the on road ride, in my case the fact that I can't register it anymore.
You need to figure out what you want from the vehicle, great offroad, great on the street, decent on both and so on then it will be easier to figure out what axles, gears, tires, lift, armour, etc you need.
One last thing, Jim Allen is extremely knowledgable, have several of his books myself, but check the date because things change. What might have been considered the best thing ever in the late 90s might be equal in strength to factory parts now.
 
xjmarc said:
12 bols are junk. Skip the 44 if you really have to have 37s because if that's your starting point you will be board with them within a year and want more. Wish I had never built my front 44 and just started with a 60. That being said, no axle is bullet proof. I run chromos front and rear in mine and have broken both running 35s (front HP44 and ff60 rear). It all has to do with what kind of terrain you plan to run.
As for something that is sick offroad and great on the street, there is no such thing. If you want it to work well offroad it will suffer on the street and vice versa. It's one of those things offroaders learn to live with. That is why people who wheel their rigs hard have a seperate daily driver and some of us trailer them due to the on road ride, in my case the fact that I can't register it anymore.
You need to figure out what you want from the vehicle, great offroad, great on the street, decent on both and so on then it will be easier to figure out what axles, gears, tires, lift, armour, etc you need.
One last thing, Jim Allen is extremely knowledgable, have several of his books myself, but check the date because things change. What might have been considered the best thing ever in the late 90s might be equal in strength to factory parts now.
Click to expand...

very true:shades:
 

It is official...

and please take no offence...

You sir, are an asshat.
 

This is really annoying. Can't I just build my rig fix what gets broke and have fun with it or do I have to go to these forums to get called an asshat because I'm building a capable rig?
 

Bounty__Hunter said:
If I'm not mistaken the d50 is a d60 housing with a d44 gearset, or something similar.
Click to expand...

Just for clarity there are absolutely no D44 parts used in or on a D50. The R&P, carrier, and inner shaft splines are D50. The rest of this axle assembly is D60. The D50 will easily handle 37"+ size tires, especially on a light weight vehicle like a Jeep. Only caveat is it has 8 on 170mm BP, but a Sterling 10.5 will match that nicely and it is as strong as a D70 with D60 clearance. Just mentioning these two as options.
 
jeeptjon37's said:
This is really annoying. Can't I just build my rig fix what gets broke and have fun with it or do I have to go to these forums to get called an asshat because I'm building a capable rig?
Click to expand...

Apparently not, if this was so, you would just build and repair your rig with out posting on a forum.

I appologize for refering to you as an asshat, I did say no offence.

But it was not appropriate, troll is appropriate.

Def. found here Troll (Internet) - Wikipedia, the free encyclopedia)

I have a sincere question, do you do any research at all before you ask a pointed questions? 10 seconds with google will tell you what I think you want to hear.
 

Bounty__Hunter said:
Beats me. I was being facetious due to the way the question was asked. Maybe I'm the asshat for all I know.

Didn't know the d50 had a unique ring and pinion. Is it that much stronger than the d44 R&P?
Click to expand...
Dana 50 (98-on) is essentailly the old ford TTB center section with D60 shafts, outer castings, knuckles etc. also has that stupid metric bolt pattern.
 
jps4jeep said:
Dana 50 (98-on) is essentailly the old ford TTB center section with D60 shafts, outer castings, knuckles etc. also has that stupid metric bolt pattern.
Click to expand...

I don't really follow you there because the D50 TTB had a removable center section, the 99+ solid axle D50 does not. They do share the same R&P and carrier, and the 99+ D50 uses a D60 housing which is machined for a D50 carrier. Any of the Superduty 3/4 and 1 ton axles have the metric bolt pattern, but this is really a non issue since it has been in use for well over a decade and by now every rim made is offered in the 8 on 170 BP.
I will say the BP you do want to stay away from is the F250 LD which had a 7x150mm bolt pattern and used a semi floating Sterling rear.

BH as far as strength the D50 is appropriately named since it falls GAWR and torque rating wise between the D44 and D60. A D44 has an 8.5" ring gear, D50 has a 9" ring gear, and the D60 has a 9.75".
 
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Just an idea but check out throwing some rubicon dana 44's under your tj. These are pretty bullet proof. And probably wouldn't be a huge amount of adapting. We chose scout axles with arbs. Great setup that has held up against any abuse we can throw at them. Good luck.
 

Ggg said:
They do share the same R&P and carrier, and the 99+ D50 uses a D60 housing which is machined for a D50 carrier.
Click to expand...
You are correct, this is what I was refering to, obviously not the drop out third.
And yes, non-HD 7 lug f250's from 97-99 stink. I believe they were IFS fronts, not solid? correct me if I am wrong.


edit, my reference for stupid metric bolt pattern is because you can not simply run dodge 2500 rims (one of the best known secrets if you want a cheap 17x8" rim with lots of back spacing to bead lock and run on 1-tons). I do not think ford made anything other than a factory steel 16.5" rim. the 17" rims were aluminum, so if you are looking for an inexpensive set of 8 lug rims to bead lock, your kind of pigeon holed into running aftermarket stuff, which will cost slightly more. I know this is preference, but the 16.5 rims do not have the inner safety bead as far as I know.

also, H1 and H2 rims are found dirt cheap, but they do not fit the criteria above.
 
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