76 CJ5 project.....could use some advice.

[Joseph.smith54]

While I am waiting for some more parts to come in, I am looking for others and gathering information. I have always been told that when rebuilding an engine to replace the head bolts. I have only found one source for head bolts and that is summit racing. $62 for the lot. Just bought new push rods and some other nic nac things like front signals and dash indicators. The connecting rod bolts should be in at the end of the week. Once I get those, the engine can be finished being put back together. With boring the block and getting a larger cam, I am seriously considering leaving the one barrel off and going with a 2 barrel. Something like a 38/38 Weber. I will also need a 2 barrel intake if I go that route though and it seems kinda hard to find one new. Easier to find one used. Anyone know of any issues with swapping the older one barrel with a newer two barrel from a late 4.2 or early 4.0?

 

[greg92jeepxj]

I found discussion on a jeep forum ; jeep-CJ.com , and a post read 64-79 AMC 2 barrel will fit. The discussion was titled " 77 258 4.2 intake manifold conversion . Man , I hate pirating , but I don't have a proper reference to confirm what years , only an interchange from a wrecking yard , like a Hollander exchange would have that .
P.S. - to my knowledge , the 4.0 was only built fuel injected and not familiar with any throttle body injection 4.0 , only multi port fuel injection ( Renix or Chrysler ) . A throttle body injected manifold won't do us any good , would end up having to adapt , if possible . At that point of course , may as well just bolt on a two barrel intake manifold . So , I guess it will have to be the '64-79 intake.

 

[PoliceMonkey161]

Hey Joe,

You will not have problems with the 2 bbl intake from a later 4.2L, but depending on the manufacturer (Clifford, Edlbrock) you may need to install headers. The OEM exhaust manifolds dont always fit with after-market intakes. A cost effective solution for you would be the 2 bbl OEM intake from a 82-86 258.

Consider that generally the only 4.0 intakes that are carburated are after-market models from Clifford because the 4.0L where injected (I believe?) which you could go that route if you wanted? Regardless, the 4.0L intake will fit a 258 but a 258 needs a minor mod to fit on the 4.0L head.

 

[superj]

I have an offenhauser intake on mine. Needed to adapt down from four to two barrel when I was running a two barrel but now that I have a holley four barrel, no trouble

 

[Joseph.smith54]

Alright, its been a while but I havent gotten much accomplished in the past month. I did manage to find a 2bbl intake for $75. As a bonus the guy threw in the exhaust manifold as well. Pretty cheap compared to what I found on ebay. Couldnt even find one at any of the local junk yards. I found front and rear Dana 44 axles on craigslist that I'd love to have but the guy hasnt responded to my email yet. Has anyone that reads this ever had any experience changing to dana 44s? and do you think it is worth swapping? Let's see if I can paste the link on here.

jeep Wagoner Dana 44 axles

 

[Joseph.smith54]

Also, the connecting rod bolts just got in today. Apparently quadratec didn't have all of them to send to me, and that is was took so long. I'll be taking them to the machine shop to be put on the connecting rods on monday.

 

[69jeepcj]

Yes, swapping to 44,s will be worth it. The AMC20 has two piece axle shafts which are held together with a wooddrift key and big nut on the end of the shaft, the nut will loosen and strip the key, leaving the rear end unuseable until fixed. One piece axle kits are available to address this but cost around $300.00. Lots of people think the 20 is good axle with the one piece kit, then you have the price of a locker if you want one. You can get both front and rear 44,s for around 300 or a little more and the front will be much stronger than your current 30 and probably a bit stronger than your amc20 with the axle kit.

 

[superj]

A guy just offered me a d44 rear and d30 front for my 76 cj5. Free and they have either 4.10 or 5.xx something gears in them.

 

[Joseph.smith54]

Wow! Wish someone would make that deal with me. Doesn't get much better than free.

 

[superj]

I know. He lives in Austin though, 4 hours away. I don't know if I will ever make it that far north

 

[Joseph.smith54]

Because I am paranoid about messing up the clearances on my rods and crank, the machine shop is going to help me assemble the bottom end of my engine. Before and after pictures of the block.

 

[superj]

A hard top and full metal cj5,doors just showed up for 300 bucks about 5 minutes down the road from my house. I am going to check it out tomorrow

How does mine look? Front end is wired up and so is engine





Only wire left is the temp sender and everything forward of the firewall is wired in

 

[Joseph.smith54]

A hard top and full metal cj5,doors just showed up for 300 bucks about 5 minutes down the road from my house. I am going to check it out tomorrow How does mine look? Front end is wired up and so is engine http://s25.photobucket.com/user/bus...oads/IMG_20140329_183959_zpso8zuwjua.jpg.html http://s25.photobucket.com/user/bus...oads/IMG_20140329_184013_zps9koq3jut.jpg.html Only wire left is the temp sender and everything forward of the firewall is wired in

Looks Good! Have you crunch it up after wiring the engine?

 

[superj]

Crunch it up?

 

[Joseph.smith54]

Sorry, crank it up. Has it run since the change.

 

[superj]

no, still have to do the tail lights, and dash stuff. i meant to do it sunday but just didn't get to it. i almost just dropped a battery in and jumped the start wires just to hear it run again but didn't

 

[Joseph.smith54]

So my ipad and a iphone jeepz app just started working again. I'll be disposed of of a while starting next week so I told the machine shop that my engine has to be completed by Thursday. Finally, some process to recovery for this jeep. I am too excited.

 

[superj]

I got the back end of the jeep wired in, and fuel sender. I laid out the dash and ignition wiring and got some stuff hooked up there. I tried to jump her and get her running but I don't know which wires to jump and it didn't work out.

 

[69jeepcj]

J, If everything is hooked up why do you need to jump it? Anyways, if your ignition switch works and your starter works, turn ignition to run position, and get a healthy sized wire roughly 6" long and look at your solenoid on the fender, find which post go,s to the battery and which go,s to your starter, and jump the two post with the wire and she should crank up.

 

[superj]

I don't have the dash wired in yet. I need to buy a turn signal switch and the ignition switch on the bottom of the column. It turns over dine jumping the solenoid but since I don't know which wires have to for it to stay running, all it would do is crank