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think of it as time to upgrade your rig. :lol: glad to hear your ok!

could be a bad tie rod end or ball joint....either one of those would cause the steering to bind at certain spots..

the only real difference is that the 89 YJ came with a peugot transmission instead of an ax-15...

Bounty..you are right...when i say it BOLTS right up...i am referring to bolts....my AA Yoke and cherokee DS CV uses bolts and not u-straps....hope this helps clear up some confusion.

i have an AA SYE installed and the cherokee front DS CV bolts right up to the AA yoke.

looks like a very clean/well maintained jeep to me...the GT steering wheel looks like the only mod tho :cry:

is this going in the rear of a yj? if it is the best candadate for DS shortening is a cherokee front driveshaft. i am pretty sure that chevy half ton u-joints are going to be too big for your yokes.

sometimes the old shim packs will do just fine for setting up the gears...other times it will not.

you might not have broke anything but what snitty is saying is that you have to take everything apart to replace those bearing...putting a ring and pinion back together requires the shimming of pinion depth and the trimming of the carrier side to side. ( shims are added until you get a prefect...

hey junkpile: What is the best (strongest way) to mount a rear bumper to a YJ? i have been looking at that weak cross member and handful of bolts for a while now....just waiting for it to break :lol: do you have any pics of how to better tie a bumper into the frame on a yj?

lookin good!!! :lol: i think the motor lift and flush skid is a good mod..it'll give ya some of your shifter back too....

i am pretty sure that cj's and ford half ton's use the same 5 on 5.5 bolt pattern....so they should fit but i would measure first before buying the rims/tires.

yup! AA SYE was a must :lol:( sadly i am stuck with the stock powertrain for this summer...not that it isnt good enough...just could be better :wink: ) i shortend a cherokee front driveshaft to work as my rear driveshaft but will be getting one made by Tom woods ASAP

sounds like a soild set-up John! i still consider myself to be a newbie when it comes to this stuff but if i can help you out in anyway i will try. if you want to stay with ford stuff on that dana 44 you can use the knuckles, spindles,brakes, rotor and hub assembly off of a 1977-79 ford crew...

lol..just finished watching a documentation about that bug...

ont forget about the shock mounts...if you weil new shock mounts on top of your axles you can kill two birds with one stone. you get the mounts up and out of the way and you can keep your old shocks..( dont need to buy longer shockes) i can send you a pic of what i did on the 9 inch if you want.

lol tug...i think a stick would work better than my fuel gauge too....seriously if you have ever taken the dash out youll see why the gauges dont work half the time...nothing but a cardboard circuit board back there...lol

looks like you had a fun time....how did that full size chev make out?

thanks for the replies and info...has anybody tried running a 160 t-stat in a carbed 258 tho...because i am curious i am going to try the 160 out( still need steering so it might be a while before i can get back to you about it). i was having over heating issues last summer with my 195 t-stat...

i would tug but i have heard that without a t-stat the coolant will run through the motor too fast taking away some of its cooling ablity..i have no idea if this is true or not...does anybody know if this is a correct assumption??....i have never ran a motor without a t-stat