XJ Tires

[JeepGirl247]

The tires on my XJ have enough tread on them to last awhile longer, but they have cracks around the wheel and two of them have persistent air leaks (one is a patched flat). I am starting my tire research and there are couple things I'd like to know about.

(1) - Right now, I have 225 all season tires. Is 235 the largest size that I can upgrade to with the stock 15 inch wheels? I don't take it offroad and don't have any plans to do anything to modify it to an offroad XJ, but I don't want it to look "street". I just want a slightly larger tire size.

(2) - What is the best tire brand that I can buy that is also affordable? I saw a set of Uniroyal something-or-other and it was $95/tire. The tread looked really good - but I don't want to buy anything if it has bad reviews, etc, etc...

Thanks in advance.

 

[MudderChuck]

I've run both Goodyear and Goodrich, 235/75R 15 A/T's. Both gave good service, handled well enough and were quiet compared to M/T's.
IMO the 235 P tires are a little soft in the sidewall and add to the old XJ sway a little, LT's are likely a better choice, but may ride a little (slightly) rougher.
Both had to be rotated on an annual basis, the fronts tend to wear noticeably faster than the rears.
I put a washer behind the turn stops on mine to keep them from contacting the lower control arms in really sharp turns. Didn't noticeably affect my turning radius, but did save the inside edge of my tires.

 

[JeepGirl247]

Thanks MudderChuck.

In other words, are you suggesting to NOT get the 235's and stick with the 225's that I currently have when buying new ones? It sounds to me like 235's would wear out quicker...

 

[MudderChuck]

Thanks MudderChuck.

In other words, are you suggesting to NOT get the 235's and stick with the 225's that I currently have when buying new ones? It sounds to me like 235's would wear out quicker...

235's have a taller sidewall, the handling difference is fairly minor, but noticeable. there is a difference between "P" tires (passenger car) and "LT" (light truck) tires, in the same size. "LT" tend to have a higher weight rating and stiffer sidewalls and don't add to the wallow and sway of an XJ much.
I got a little more wear out of the 235's than the 225's. Though that depends on the tire. Had a set of Dunlop LT M/S 6 ply tires that lasted forever. But felt like I was driving on a wooden wagon wheel.
I went to the bigger tire mostly to (try) and clear the crown on the farm roads I frequently travel.
235's just look better under a Jeep, than the 225's or 215's. But do rub a little from time to time, never really caused me any grief though, never really damaged anything.

 

[JeepGirl247]

Thanks again, MudderChuck for the tire info. I really want to get the 235's, but I certainly don't want to hurt anything on the Jeep because of the tire size. Are there any brands to stay away from? Like I said earlier, I saw Uniroyals for $95/tire - does that sound like a good price?

 

[MudderChuck]

Thanks again, MudderChuck for the tire info. I really want to get the 235's, but I certainly don't want to hurt anything on the Jeep because of the tire size. Are there any brands to stay away from? Like I said earlier, I saw Uniroyals for $95/tire - does that sound like a good price?

Never tried the Uniroyals, I'd check if they are passenger car tires or LT tires.
I usually wait until Sears or somebody has a sale, then check the production date code on the side of the tire. You can find out how on line.
You sometimes find a free rotation or maybe a $3 warranty thrown in with advertised sales.
Some of my first choices in cost and looks have proven to be mistakes. There is often some reason they are cheap, nobody is buying because of quick wear or maybe excessive road noise.
Looks will fool you, different brands perform differently in the rain, on ice or in the snow. Some are loud, some aren't. If you make a mistake, you live with it for the next 3-4 years.

 

[JeepGirl247]

Thanks...useful info as always

The Uniroyals were LT tires...

I'm wondering how much longer I should run these tires that I am using currently because of the slow leaking (down to 10PSI when measured before adding air) and the cracked inner sidewalls...the tread should last awhile though...

 

[MudderChuck]

Thanks...useful info as always

The Uniroyals were LT tires...

I'm wondering how much longer I should run these tires that I am using currently because of the slow leaking (down to 10PSI when measured before adding air) and the cracked inner sidewalls...the tread should last awhile though...

Usually two reasons they crack, age or heat. I've had tires give good service with some surface cracing, but I'm sure not going to tell you they are OK, I'm not an expert.
Likely $20-30 to find the leak and fix it. Maybe more if it is leaking around the bead, but doable. Sometimes all it takes for a bead leak is a little wire brushing and some silicon bead sealer.
I do know running them with low pressure at highway speeds will make them heat up and maybe add to the cracking problem.
I always check the valve stems first, then check them in a tub of water to find the leaks. I usually plug and patch them, double your chances of a good repair.
It's likely soon to be law any tire over 5-6 years is a no pass at inspection. Tire companies are fighting it, but the trend seems to be in that direction.

 

[54cj3b]

uniroyals are passenger car tires the weight of your xj would cause the sidewales to roll on hard sharp turns just a fyi

 

[JeepGirl247]

uniroyals are passenger car tires the weight of your xj would cause the sidewales to roll on hard sharp turns just a fyi

Thanks for the FYI.

MudderChuck - The last time I refilled them two of the valves gave me problems that I never encountered before - one of which was the valve actually shot out the tire's air as soon as I went to fill it! Thankfully, I got it stopped so that it would hold the air, but still...two of the tires look halfway flat when they are low...so I don't know if they will pass inspection or not...some places may be more lenient than others...that's why I'm starting my tire research now.

I appreciate all suggestions from everyone Thank you!

 

[MudderChuck]

Thanks for the FYI.

MudderChuck - The last time I refilled them two of the valves gave me problems that I never encountered before - one of which was the valve actually shot out the tire's air as soon as I went to fill it! Thankfully, I got it stopped so that it would hold the air, but still...two of the tires look halfway flat when they are low...so I don't know if they will pass inspection or not...some places may be more lenient than others...that's why I'm starting my tire research now.

I appreciate all suggestions from everyone Thank you!

Likely the valve core is full of mud or other junk. The inside of the valve screws out, it's called the valve stem core. You can tighten it or screw it out, with a special little tool or sometimes you even find valve caps with a raised slotted end on them to tighten or remove the stem.
Most auto part places sell the stem cores separate from the whole valve. They don't cost much.
If you take the valve stem/core out the tire will go flat quick. If you let it go flat with the weight of the vehicle on the tire, there is a small chance the tire bead may pop off the rim.
I support the vehicle with a jack, replace the valve and refill.

Here is what the valve stem core looks like.

Here is the tool, the top part with the slotted end is the valve core removal part. There is also an inside thread cleaner for the valve and and outside thread cleaner. Darned if I know what the pointy end is for, maybe self defense LOL.

It's always best to keep the caps on the tire valves. Always buy a few extra caps, stems, valve cores and a tool to keep in the glove box. Cheep insurance.

 

[JeepGirl247]

Thanks a lot! I refilled the tires over the weekend and left the fourth one go - the tire valve cap was not coming off and I didn't want it to have a problem leaking all the air, plus it wasn't low thankfully...so that info you posted will definately come in handy!

 

[volaredon]

Which Uniroyals??? They have several. FWIW I run 235/75R15 MICHELINS on both my Jeeps; LTX M/S on the Cherokee (wife's ride) and LTX-A/T's on the Wrangler. Michelins ARE worth the extra $$$ the last set were kellys and "60K" mile" rated but were shot after 25K miles. so I went back to Michelin. I had 70K+ on the 1st set of LTX-a/T's on the Wrangler with better than 1/2 tread left but they were like 8 years old. I ran em for about 15K on our "old" Cherokee before the Kellys.

Michelin BFGoodrich and Uniroyal are 1 company now-a-days. Michelin bought out the other 2, about 10-15 years ago.
and what did I put back onto the Wrangler? Yup. more LTX-A/T's.

BTW; Michelin bought out Uniroyal and BFG about 15 years back.

Firestone and Bridgestone are the same company and Goodyear owns Kelly. (I have never had a good, Goodyear tire. Ever.)

 

[hogseye]

hey MudderChuck, the pointy end of the valve stem tool is to screw down inside a wrung off valve core, the threads are reversed so you screw it down in the direction that you would turn out the core. When it seats all the way down and you are very lucky it then continues to turn bringing the core out with it. As for tire sizes the early(87,88 etc) XJ's actually came stock with 215's. I run 235's sometimes but have discovered that I get better fuel mileage with the 215's.

 

[JeepGirl247]

The 235's would look a lot better on an XJ, but my main concern is - are they tooo big for a stock lift/suspension? I wouldn't think so, but I am still looking for suggestions or personal experience with this.

Thanks, volaredon, for the tire info.

 

[volaredon]

no problem. All the "major" companies make the typical sizes we'd be running on an XJ in both "P" and "LT"ratings; if you typically drive your XJ daily and don't load it down real heavy or tow "max capacity" all the time the "P" would be plenty as far as carrying the weight. the "LT's" are stiffer and therefore a lil more puncture resistant, are capable of carrying more air pressure but in the same size, they do ride harder.
a good compromise; an "extra-load"; basically a "heavy-duty" passenger tire; not as hard riding as an LT, but stiffer than a "P";

it used to really **** me off when I worked the alignment rack when I'd see a 1-ton go out the door on "P"'s and a Tahoe type vehicle, obviously doing no more than "soccer mom" duty ride out on 10-plys. especially when I worked for the "major retailer" (hint; well known for lifetime warranty tools) some of the sales clerks we had were.... well, less than qualified to be selling automotive stuff; more interested in "cheap" and "price points" than suitability for a given purpose.
I could not begin to recount how many times I got the sales person in the stockroom and basically "went off" on them for such stupid crap. What happens if the guy in a 1 ton crashes due to the under-weight tires you sold blows out??? when you have a truck that calls for 65PSI front/80PSI rear 35PSI rated tires won't cut it.

that said just b/c it says so on the sidewall don't (necessarily) mean that you HAVE to put that much air in them. Most likely all youll get if you do is the centers of the tread will wind up bald with plenty on the edges.

if you put a pass-car (usually rated at 35PSI) on there vs an LT (rated for 50-80PSI depending on # of plies) the vehicle is still the same; as is the weight you need to hold up. so while a 6 ply (load range C) will take up to 50PSI, in an XJ, 35 is still plenty; and you won't hurt that tire either since the wt of your XJ is nowhere near themax weight cap of that tire. look at the tire for "max load" and remember that 1 single tire don't need to hold the whole weight of the vehicle.

 

[MudderChuck]

hey MudderChuck, the pointy end of the valve stem tool is to screw down inside a wrung off valve core, the threads are reversed so you screw it down in the direction that you would turn out the core. When it seats all the way down and you are very lucky it then continues to turn bringing the core out with it. As for tire sizes the early(87,88 etc) XJ's actually came stock with 215's. I run 235's sometimes but have discovered that I get better fuel mileage with the 215's.

Thanx for the info, figured somebody knew what it was for, I just knew it wasn't me. Never too old to learn something new. Thanx again.

 

[MudderChuck]

The 235's would look a lot better on an XJ, but my main concern is - are they tooo big for a stock lift/suspension? I wouldn't think so, but I am still looking for suggestions or personal experience with this.

Thanks, volaredon, for the tire info.

The stops in the steering knuckle that actually stop the steering left and right are a bolt with a nut welded to it. The nut welded to the bolt, makes them non adjustable, but the washer spacer behind the nut usually works out for 235's. I actually only needed a washer spacer on the right side, the left cleared at full turn without the washer.
Screw out the bolt (with the nut) and put a washer behind the nut. It will keep your 235's from contacting the lower control arms. Even if the tires rub the lower control arms a little it isn't catastrophic anyway and never caused much damage that I ever noticed. In the rears, the tires may skin something at full compression, never caused any damage on my XJ's.
The 235's have taller sidewalls, I notice the difference, seems there is a bit more roll or sway to the old XJ from the taller sidewalls. LT tires seem to compensate for this somewhat, but do ride a little harder even at typical XJ tire pressures. I haven't tried every tire on the market.

 

[hogseye]

No problem mudderchuck, many years ago in a land far far away, my ex's brothers ran a shop that I helped in a lot. Her older brother was a master of all things made of metal that go vroom vroom. No Really... he was. I learned a lot from him.....( and a lot more from her....lol)

 

[superspud87]

i have 235 spector advanta AT's on my jeep right now and ive never had a problem. if i turn too sharp there is a mild rubbing but i just dont turn that sharp anymore . i got these tires new from schwabs in june and they still have a fingernail tread yet, and i drive ALOT. they were decently cheap as well. $435 in and out service