Wiring Roof mounted lights

[90Xjay]

I am getting ready to order a Safari Rack and I want to mount a couple of forward lights. How have you guys ran the wires on your rigs? I was thinking of drilling a small hole underneath of the factory rack to get the wires inside and coming from under the headliner and mounting the switch on the overhead console where I already have power handy. I was hoping for some input please.

 

[ROGLSTUBB]

Depending on the wattage of light you are planning on using it maybe wiser to run the hot to the lights off a relay. I ran my wiring up the the door post between the front and rear doors. There was a few inches of wire showing but I personally rather a little wire showing than a leak on my forhead.

Two other notes. One the factory roof rack on my 84XJ was not grounded, yours maybe but I am not sure. I mention this because I assumed mine was and found out later it wasnt. A lot later. Two I would try to avoid taking out the headliner to drill a hole. Cherokee headliners have a bad habit of hanging down. If your headliner is good I wouldn't mess with a good thing.

 

[90Xjay]

ROGLSTUBB,
I am going to run two 55 watt lights so I don't know if I need a relay or not. My headliner is brand new, I just took it out and redone it a couple of months ago. So I don't want to damage it for sure.

I would have thought for sure that those racks were grounded, thanks for the heads-up. I will look at running my wires up the door post also.
Thanks for the good info!

 

[XJNick]

Hi,

The roof rack rails are Not grounded simply because they have a rubber gasket between them and the roof AND the bolts screw into rubber blocks with nuts in them.

Two 55 watt lights *could* be switched without a relay but this can be dangerous. I'd ABSOLUTELY recommend using a relay, as the switch they send you with the lights are usually shitty and don't handle the load very well -- I've had one melt some before. :shock: Also you'll want to run the wiring direct to the fuse block/ load center or the battery itself. Never rely on exsisting harnesses to handle that current as they use the smallest possible wiring in them.

Also, I wouldn't attempt to remove the headliner again, i've done it once. What a pain!

-Nick :!:

 

[tmsloan]

Another thought is to mount your lights then( 1) 8 gauge power supply line as well as (1) 8 gauge ground wire this should supply more than enough power for those lights I have(6) forward and (2) rear lights. Run your power wire isulated along side your ground along the inside frame of your rack follow it to the forward right corner then keep both wires running along the roof mounts to the roof rack track along side your track up to it's closest point to the windshield insulate both wires along the whole length of the racks and then cover them in flex fit wire dressing when your to your windshield simply use u clamps that bolt the wires along the roof for 8 inches to the windshild post then drill a hole big enough for both wires this will bring them inside at the window post you can remove the plastic molding and your free from messing with the roof then wire your heavy gauge power wire the a central mount toggle switch system that uses (METAL) toggles the ground your system and run your main power to your toggle system and ground it and abadda bing abadda boom you now have a anti-on coming bright light driver system it works great when you power up (6) roof and (2) hood mounted and (2) bumper mounted fog spot and driving lights on some idiot driving around w/ his brights on. :lol:

 

[XJNick]

Hi,

8 gauge wire is a tad overkill for this application. Two 55 watt lamps pull about 9.16 amps @ 12 volts. So 14 AWG wire would be ok. You'll probably want to use 12 AWG wire just because it is a longer run.

If you do decide to power the lights directly though a switch without a relay, use a *good* metal toggle switch rated at least for 15 amps @ 12 volts. I'd still run them through a standard 4-pin relay though :mrgreen:

-Nick :!: