Weber carb
- Thread starter jrodfox
- Start date
Saddle Tramp
New member
Look, a lot of guys swear by the Weber swap BUT if you don’t get a good one out of the box you will be left with not much more than a door stop. This comes from the been-there-done-that file. On the box it says “no warranty what so ever†and from my experience they mean it. Go with the Motorcraft 2100/2150 swap. Remember, Caveat Emptor!
superj
Well-known member
i would get a real weber, from redline weber, like stated above. don't get that crappy 34 weber. i have it and coming from running the 32/36 on bmws, this is not a good unit.
get a 32/36 or a 38. very nice units. i had zero problems converting from fuel injection to a carb with a 32/36 but always wished i had gotten a 38 because of hte extra oomph. those are the ones the bmw guys use on tons of different models so if you need any info that can't be gotten here, check out bimmerforums in the e21 section
get a 32/36 or a 38. very nice units. i had zero problems converting from fuel injection to a carb with a 32/36 but always wished i had gotten a 38 because of hte extra oomph. those are the ones the bmw guys use on tons of different models so if you need any info that can't be gotten here, check out bimmerforums in the e21 section
Buck hour
New member
I just got a weber 38 dges outlaw. There was no such warning on the box when I received it from quad. I also did a lot of research before making my choice. The weber was the easiest swap from my carter 2bbl. On top of that, the 38 dges w/electric choke was less expensive than the 32/36(by more than$50) and it came with a jet kit. just make sure yours is from Italy! After installing it (40 min later) my lil 258 started sounded like a big boy and I got a huge gain in throttle response. But that may have been just my experience.
(ps the message about the guy who got a weber with the no warranty quote.. I posted the same question and got, verbatim, the exact same response from the exact same profile...)
(ps the message about the guy who got a weber with the no warranty quote.. I posted the same question and got, verbatim, the exact same response from the exact same profile...)
matchbox145
New member
Agree do not get the weber 34. I bought one in july, and now i'm getting a motorcraft ,, Now my jeep runs great , starts right up and idles great and yes has a lot more power but i can never stop it from burning rich ,, Get your self a Mc better set up and you do not need a fpr.
matchbox145
New member
Yes weber needs a fpr but not the Motorcraft,,,,But if you were saying that i need an fpr I have holly and it still burns rich.
matchbox145
New member
Check out the mc 2100/2150 on ebay the seller is ehrmannmp and the item number is 220774872934 hope this helps and let me know what you think
It is not a given that a FPR is necessary, sixteen years of Weber use has never once produced a need on any of my many applications.
The OEM fuel filter used with the fuel return line is a FPR, and jeeps fuel pumps DO NOT produce 8-10 psi. New replacements are rated at 5-7 and the in-service spec is 3-6 psi.
The forums are full of users that will need to omit or restrict the flow of the OEM system just in order so to build enough pressure to see 3.5 psi... all for the sake of a new FPR gizmo.
If bowl overfill, the symptom of too much pressure OR poor float setting, is ever experienced there is a Viton needle that if used with the return system will withstand all that the OEM type pump will produce.
It is your screw settings are causing what you label "burns rich".
matchbox145
New member
Well if it's a screw setting i have not got it right yet, Only screw is the air mix and i have turned it so many times that the screw has more miles on it then the jeep does. I was told by weber that the screw should be any where from a 1/2 turn out to 3 turns out and no matter where it is it burns your eyes and make you choke but the plugs are never black and it starts right up idles real smooth and will hual a$$ down the road, Also new create motor 2500 miles and hei
There are two screws, one regulates the throttle plate position labeled a speed screw and the mix screw, it regulates the flow of fuel from the idle hole.
If the speed screw is set so that the throttle plate is open too far a unreguated/sporatic flow will occur at the transition/enrichment holes. This is your carbs condition.
Often we will read "rich" when it is actually too lean. Without having sooted plugs it is a dead giveaway that it is set out of spec..
If you will post the sizes of the idle jets that you have set, I'll help you adjust it.
If the speed screw is set so that the throttle plate is open too far a unreguated/sporatic flow will occur at the transition/enrichment holes. This is your carbs condition.
Often we will read "rich" when it is actually too lean. Without having sooted plugs it is a dead giveaway that it is set out of spec..
If you will post the sizes of the idle jets that you have set, I'll help you adjust it.
matchbox145
New member
Really not sure about jet size, speed screw is that the idle screw ?
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