Tools needed to do a tune-up

[pirategirl]

Okay, I'm not that mechanically inclined, but my '07 Liberty needs a tuneup in a bad way and I'm broke, so I need to do it myself. I know I need to get a spark plug wrench to change the plugs, but can anyone recommend a list of tools/supplies I should have on hand? Also... can you recommend more/less in the way of a tune up than this: plugs, wires, rotor, cap, air filter, coil (#4 has some kind of problem according to the code it's throwing), inspect pcv valve, clean throttle body, and change the gas filter. Is that a complete list? Is that over doing it? My Jeep has 111,000 miles on it and this is the first tune up since 40,000, or maybe the first one ever. Thanks for your advice.

 

[SteelHeadz]

For an 07 model, it seem's premature to replace the plugs at 40,000 miles on it. It's likely the original plugs or one of them was just faulty. The modern engines uses the platinum spark plugs that's supposed to be good for 100,000 miles. To ensure the correct plugs to use, look under the hood or engine compartment for a white factory label. It will have emission specs, spark plug gap spec and spark plug part number. You will need a spark plug gap tool, spark plug socket, 3/8's -4inch extension and a ratchet. On a 3.7 liter, the coil is bolted with a 10mm on each individual sparkplug, so you will need to unplug each one then remove the 10mm bolt to gain acess to the spark plug..There is no sparkplug wires, cap or rotors on these engines to worry about instead, they are monitored by means of a cam and crankshaft sensor.Service on these sensors are not required unless they fail. The throttle body has some sensors mounted on them so be carefull not to spray any harmfull solvents while cleaning it. IF it has an ETC motor(electronic throttle motor) instead of throttle cables, make sure the ignition is in the OFF position otherwise, you will find your fingers trapped between the throttle blade and housing, it will pinch you. Make sure you gap the sparkplugs according to specs. found on the white label i mentioned earlier. The air filter replacement does not require any tools, simply snap off the retainers and slide the uppper half cover off to gain accces to the air filter. The PCV is semi loaded with a spring and a plunger. If during inspection you find debris inside the unit, replace it. Shake it up and down and listen for the plunger moving, if it doesnt move, replace it. The fuel filter is NOT seviceable as an individual unit. It's part of the fuel pressure regulator thats also part of the fuel pump module mounted on the fuel tank. No service is required on this unit unless you experience fuel delivery issues. I hope this helps.

 

[TerryMason]

Mikey, I think she's got 110,000 miles on it with the last tuneup at 40K.

Pirategirl,
I think that all you'll really need is a $25 socket set that you could buy at any automotive store. The socket set will most likely have a deep set socket that can get out spark plugs if you need to replace them. You may need an oil filter wrench (costs about $6) if you can't get the oil filter off with your bare hands.

The biggest thing to do is to make a clear list of everything that you want to do, i.e. change plugs, oil, air filter, and be sure to get everything you need before you start. There's nothing like draining all your oil and finding out that you only bought half as much as you need, then not being able to get to the store.

Post here if you have any questions, especially about specific steps.

 

[tjlboise]

Also, remember that spark plugs can break or crack fairly easily, so don't tighten them too much. I like to get them finger tight, then do like a 1/4 or 1/2 turn with the socket. I don't know if anybody else does it this way, but I had an old guy tell me to do that years ago, and since old guys are usually right, I've done it ever since.

 

[dustin g]

Also, remember that spark plugs can break or crack fairly easily, so don't tighten them too much. I like to get them finger tight, then do like a 1/4 or 1/2 turn with the socket. I don't know if anybody else does it this way, but I had an old guy tell me to do that years ago, and since old guys are usually right, I've done it ever since.

Old guys are the best for old guy wisdom. Learned 40 years of carpentry skills in 5.

 

[Jester32]

I always torque them to spec at work that way my a** is covered.

 

[tjlboise]

I always torque them to spec at work that way my a** is covered.

That is the best way to do it, but guessing from this thread, a torque wrench isn't gonna be readily available.

 

[tjlboise]

Which reminds me...I've always wondered if using an extension adapter on a torque wrench changes the actual torque at all.

 

[Jester32]

A normal quality extension won't. A wobble extension will if it flexes over 15 degrees. A cheap extension will twist but should cause it to be out by much.

 

[dustin g]

Which reminds me...I've always wondered if using an extension adapter on a torque wrench changes the actual torque at all.

Absolutely not. According to physics you are still creating the same torque at the pivot point. You are only making it easier to achive said torque.

 

[pirategirl]

Hey, thank you so much for all this info! I had no idea I could find out right inside the hood what kind of plugs to get. Here's hoping the tune up goes well!

For an 07 model, it seem's premature to replace the plugs at 40,000 miles on it. It's likely the original plugs or one of them was just faulty. The modern engines uses the platinum spark plugs that's supposed to be good for 100,000 miles. To ensure the correct plugs to use, look under the hood or engine compartment for a white factory label. It will have emission specs, spark plug gap spec and spark plug part number. You will need a spark plug gap tool, spark plug socket, 3/8's -4inch extension and a ratchet. On a 3.7 liter, the coil is bolted with a 10mm on each individual sparkplug, so you will need to unplug each one then remove the 10mm bolt to gain acess to the spark plug..There is no sparkplug wires, cap or rotors on these engines to worry about instead, they are monitored by means of a cam and crankshaft sensor.Service on these sensors are not required unless they fail. The throttle body has some sensors mounted on them so be carefull not to spray any harmfull solvents while cleaning it. IF it has an ETC motor(electronic throttle motor) instead of throttle cables, make sure the ignition is in the OFF position otherwise, you will find your fingers trapped between the throttle blade and housing, it will pinch you. Make sure you gap the sparkplugs according to specs. found on the white label i mentioned earlier. The air filter replacement does not require any tools, simply snap off the retainers and slide the uppper half cover off to gain accces to the air filter. The PCV is semi loaded with a spring and a plunger. If during inspection you find debris inside the unit, replace it. Shake it up and down and listen for the plunger moving, if it doesnt move, replace it. The fuel filter is NOT seviceable as an individual unit. It's part of the fuel pressure regulator thats also part of the fuel pump module mounted on the fuel tank. No service is required on this unit unless you experience fuel delivery issues. I hope this helps.

 

[pirategirl]

I do have a socket set with a deep well socket... didn't know I could use that... thank you Thanks for responding to my post!

Mikey, I think she's got 110,000 miles on it with the last tuneup at 40K.

Pirategirl,
I think that all you'll really need is a $25 socket set that you could buy at any automotive store. The socket set will most likely have a deep set socket that can get out spark plugs if you need to replace them. You may need an oil filter wrench (costs about $6) if you can't get the oil filter off with your bare hands.

The biggest thing to do is to make a clear list of everything that you want to do, i.e. change plugs, oil, air filter, and be sure to get everything you need before you start. There's nothing like draining all your oil and finding out that you only bought half as much as you need, then not being able to get to the store.

Post here if you have any questions, especially about specific steps.

 

[pirategirl]

Cool. I'll be careful with them. Thanks.

Also, remember that spark plugs can break or crack fairly easily, so don't tighten them too much. I like to get them finger tight, then do like a 1/4 or 1/2 turn with the socket. I don't know if anybody else does it this way, but I had an old guy tell me to do that years ago, and since old guys are usually right, I've done it ever since.

 

[pirategirl]

Cool. I'll be careful with them. I live in Michigan and it's really cold here right now. Do you think I run a greater risk of cracking/breaking a plug off when I'm trying to get it out in the cold weather? .

Also, remember that spark plugs can break or crack fairly easily, so don't tighten them too much. I like to get them finger tight, then do like a 1/4 or 1/2 turn with the socket. I don't know if anybody else does it this way, but I had an old guy tell me to do that years ago, and since old guys are usually right, I've done it ever since.

 

[tjlboise]

No. I don't think you'll run too much of a greater risk of breaking them because of the cold weather, but as far as getting the old ones out, I've always found it easier to kind of bounce on the socket rather than using constant force to loosen them. If that makes sense. Its just easier on them that way. Also when you put the new ones in, be sure not to force them. They should screw in fairly easily, and if they resist you'll risk the chance of cross threading them. And that is the last thing you want.

 

[tjlboise]

If your changing your own oil, its also important to not over tighten the new oil filter as well. Get it as tight as you can by hand, and then if you do have an oil filter wrench, use it in the same manner as previously mentioned with the spark plugs. Another little "old guy" trick I learned is to dip your finger into some oil, and rub it around the rubber seal on the oil filter before you put it in. As I understand it, this causes the seal to not dry out and crack from the extensive heat from your motor, and thus prolonging the life of the filter.
Sorry if I seem like im rambling, I just like to share these little tricks with people. Just passing on the knowledge, and trying to help you out as much as I can. You'll do great. And don't forget to let us know how it goes for you.