Suspension question REVISITED

[backinblackTJ]

1043812

After reading about 50 posts in here, i've come to realize i should probably go with at least 3.5" to 4" in my suspension lift. I want to run 33x12.5's. I want it to function well off road as well as on road (i use this as my everyday driver). I also want a good looking Jeep as far as proper clearance but dont want too much space between the well and the wheel. Any suggestions as to what size lift i should go with? Also, i currently have a hard top, and have read that i should go with a heavy duty lift, even though i run it with nothing on it as often as weather allows. I have seen Old Man Emu and Rubicon Express brands mentioned. Are these the best brands to start shopping with, or are there any others out there that are excellent quality kits, can be used in hard core (potentially abusive) situations, and still provide good road suspension? I have read that aftermarket 10x15 rims are the route to go, as long as the proper backspacing is adhered to. Again, is this pretty accurate? My YJ is a 2000 sport with an automatic and the warranty is long gone, but I realize after reading these posts, that just popping a kit in and buying bigger meat is FAR from all i have to consider. Gear changes? Other transmission issues? Extending side flares for the increased tire width.



Are a lot of these issues taken care of depending on the brand of lift you go with? Are the brake lines of particular concern?



As you can tell, I am very new at this, but am fairly capable mechanic as long as i have decent directions that come with a kit. The directions usually do not deal with EVERYTHING that one should consider. I plan on lifting early next year, but wanted to do as much research and planning as i can BEFORE i have it up on jacks and trying to do the work.



Thanks in advance for any info ...

[addsig]

 

[BobJ]

1043819

One small thing first, it's "my TJ is a 2000"

I know most people who just want 33"s go with a 3" lift, if you get wheels with 3.75"-4.75" of backspacing you'll have room to flex the tires. For 12.50" tires I run 8" rims which are fine, with a 10" rim you run a higher risk of losing the bead on the tire when you air down.





In my opinion Rubicon Express makes the best lift kits, along with being the most complete, they are also the most expensive. If road ride is important you might want to look at their long arm kit, the long arm kit helps keep the suspension geometry correct to keep the ride nice. Also shocks will be important for the ride, in many people's opinions the best shocks for the road are Old Man Emu shocks... (keep in mind you can mix the lift kit and shocks).



Now another way to keep the road ride nice would be to use a 2" spacer lift, and a 1" Body Lift, this would also be the cheapest route

[addsig]

 

[Craig]

1043863

If your kit doesn't come with it, you will have to extend your brake lines and if you're going with a 4" lift, you'll probably need a slip yoke eliminator kit to reduce the driveline vibrations and possibly dropping your driveshaft at full droop of your rear suspension. You'll also need a dropped pitman arm.[addsig]

 

[drack]

1043879

I run a Tera 3T (gives me about 3.5") and 33x12.50 tires on 15x8 (4.75"bs) AR767's. It's tight, but with my backspacing flare combo, I don't mash the flares at flex. To give me a little more peace of mind, I've got a 1" body lift sitting in the basement (as soon as I get off my lazy ass to install it

). Anyway, you're right about the spring rates. I'd go the RE 3.5" route myself if I could do it over. Real complete kit that only lacks an adjustable front track bar. To compensate for a stiffer coil, go with the Old Man Emu shocks. I've got them and they're fantastic!!!! Expensive, but well worth it. At that height, a tcase drop should suffice to get rid of any vibe issues you may encounter, but if you don't wanna sacrifice the loss of clearance (and who could blame ya

), a motor mount lift is another quick fix for this. Ideally a SYE/CV shaft combo is the way to go, but it's also the most expensive.



As far as gearing goes, I'm gonna assume that with the auto you have 3.73's. That should be fine for the 33's. I run the same gears, but with a five speed, and it's just killed my crawl ratio. Not to mention making it a slug on extended hills on the highway

. Here's a pic of mine as it stands now. You can see it's tight up front, but with the body lift, it should be a non issue soon. Keep in mind that if I was running any other width or backspaced wheel, I'd have crushed my flares by now......

[addsig]