Sticky steering

[mmello13]

Ok so I know some people are probably sock of my questions considering they are all based off the same thing. As I fix one thing something else arises. It's bugging me too. So now I replaced all the ball joints. The lowers on both sides were way gone. Now that the shimmy is gone there is a flighty feeling to my steering. Almost like something is sticking when changing lanes then let's loose. I'll be in the middle of changing lanes then the jeep will go straight on me with the wheel turned then go straight again.

Just got an alignment today seeing once again my toe was off and I'm hoping I can chalk the problem up to the BJ's being loose.

So now that that is fixed and I got the alignment done even the alignment tech said, after he took it for a drive, that I need to look into the steering components, that it seems like something is sticking then will let go then stick again. He checked everything said nothing is out of place or loose. Also I have pretty good movement on my steering wheel with no turn to the tires.

Just like a jeep. You fix one problem then one or 2 or 10 more problems come to light.

Anyone had any idea what could be going on?

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[JPNinPA]

First we are not sick of answering.
Next always start your thread listing your model and year.
What modifications you made.
Don't assume we read all your prior posts and know all your upgrades or post issues.

I'm glad to help

You posted a month or so ago about alignment issues yes.

Did you do a dry steering test?
Last I heard you had aftermarket upper and lower control arms you found were loose. They were just installed correct.
You also have high steer kit and you tightened. And are you still running sandbags in the tires?
Or do I have you confused with another member?


JPNinPA
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[mmello13]

First we are not sick of answering.
Next always start your thread listing your model and year.
What modifications you made.
Don't assume we read all your prior posts and know all your upgrades or post issues.

I'm glad to help

You posted a month or so ago about alignment issues yes.

Did you do a dry steering test?
Last I heard you had aftermarket upper and lower control arms you found were loose. They were just installed correct.
Or do I have you confused with another member?


JPNinPA
Using Jeepz.com app

2013 rubicon unlimited 4" rough country lift had to use 1.75" coil spacers to make up for the shotty coils. Eventually will upgrade coils when I have money I'm not blowing on parts to fix everything to find out what is wrong haha. I have all 8 alpine adjustable control arms both adjustable track bars Adams 1350 driveshaft front and rear. I have replaced everything in the front end aside from u joints and axle shafts. I have the teraflex high steer kit also.

And yes I am the one you are thinking about and forget what the dry steering is.

So no more wobble until after 70 mph. Still some play in the steering wheel. And very flighty when driving any highway speed. Bump steer also no longer an issue. I took a bunch of pictures of needed also.

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[JPNinPA]

What are your latest alignment values?


Dry steer test. Someone turns the steering wheel back and forth from full left to right swiftly while you or someone else inspects the steering components. Looking for loose connections at TRE's & track bars. Plus inspect the ball joints when at full stop. I read you loosened the ball joints in another thread?
This one shows good left right oscellation with minimal movement in parts

This one shows movement I'm many places

On your high steer do you have rubber bushings at the joints? I don't know if they tighten it up but it minimized the floppy movement at the joint.

Regards,
JPNinPA

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[JPNinPA]

Here at 4.28 he talks about the tie rod flopping. The added bushing holds the joint in a position minimizing movement.

And this one. The cure. Eliminates tie rod roll

Regards,
JPNinPA

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[mmello13]

Oh yes I've done that on multiple occasions there's is zero bushing movement. Yes I loosened the tie rod ends and drag link bc there was a l9t of clicking when turning. When I changed the ball joints it almost went completely away. ALMOST. The guy didn't give me the read out forgot to ask. I'll stop by today and see if he has it.

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[mmello13]

The past latest I had i posted on a previous thread. So camber and castor probably didn't change from that one. He never touched the control arms.

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[JPNinPA]

Caster approaching zero will give you the dart feeling. It also degrades your return to zero. With a caster of 6-7 deg when you complete a lane change the wheels will force their direction to a zero forward path.


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[mmello13]

Ok did you go look at my last one that I posted on the other thread?

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[mmello13]

Here is the paper showing that they gave me after aligning the control arms.

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[JPNinPA]

Yah your caster and camber are out. It really should be min 5


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[mmello13]

With a 4 in lift what should I have for a length on my control arms? Approximately.

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[JPNinPA]

First there is a balance between caster and proper front drive shaft angles. You would want at least 5 deg of caster and the front yolk with enough tilt to keep the U joints from wearing quickly or binding. To increase caster lengthen the bottom or shorten the uppers or a bit of both.

You known adjustable control arms will not ride as stif as stock stamped ones.
Regards,
JPNinPA

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[mmello13]

First there is a balance between caster and proper front drive shaft angles. You would want at least 5 deg of caster and the front yolk with enough tilt to keep the U joints from wearing quickly or binding. To increase caster lengthen the bottom or shorten the uppers or a bit of both.

You known adjustable control arms will not ride as stif as stock stamped ones.
Regards,
JPNinPA

Sent using TapTalk

You think this could have something to do with my steering problem? I just looked at my rear axle. Always new it needed to be straightened out but only just realized how bad it is. Idk if it's that easy to see in the picture. But there is a pretty good bend in the spring it almost looks like the spring perch is angles back a little bit.

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