SLIP YOKE ELIMINATOR WHY ?
- Thread starter JEG
- Start date
west747
New member
1065083
if you break the rear driveshaft on a trail it is hard to get her home usin the front wheels. the t-case fuild will work its way out. but i agree, legthening the drive shaft id a good and cheaper alternative...not sure if it will get rid of drivetrain vibrations tho...[addsig]
if you break the rear driveshaft on a trail it is hard to get her home usin the front wheels. the t-case fuild will work its way out. but i agree, legthening the drive shaft id a good and cheaper alternative...not sure if it will get rid of drivetrain vibrations tho...[addsig]
Joopin
Super Moderator
1065128
What were the reasons that they didn't recommend an SYE? Just the expense? Like tarsij said the whole point of the sye is to decrease the shaft angle and I heard there are problems if you don't use an sye. I guess if your really good, you can pull it off with a stock shaft too, though i have only heard of 1 succesful job. I like the thought of saving money of course but I've heard an sye is the correct way to go when installing a larger lift.[addsig]
What were the reasons that they didn't recommend an SYE? Just the expense? Like tarsij said the whole point of the sye is to decrease the shaft angle and I heard there are problems if you don't use an sye. I guess if your really good, you can pull it off with a stock shaft too, though i have only heard of 1 succesful job. I like the thought of saving money of course but I've heard an sye is the correct way to go when installing a larger lift.[addsig]
1065150
If you lenthen the driveshaft wouldnt you still have a ujoint. Also by lowering your trans mount that should correct any angle problems right. I am installing 1 inch lift shackles and a 2 inch body lift , I let you know if the driveshaft falls out,after I have the driveshaft lenthened, and beefed up.[addsig]
If you lenthen the driveshaft wouldnt you still have a ujoint. Also by lowering your trans mount that should correct any angle problems right. I am installing 1 inch lift shackles and a 2 inch body lift , I let you know if the driveshaft falls out,after I have the driveshaft lenthened, and beefed up.[addsig]
1065174
Uhh the t-case fluid will POUR out. Whenever I replaced my transmission I had to remove the driveshafts (of course). Well when separating the rear u-joint from the yoke the driveshaft accidently slipped out and I was covered in ATF in a matter of seconds. You can get away with it though if you don't wheel but if you do you may want to consider it. Especially if you are planning a spring over axle.
Go ahead and do the lift then try this...take a big jack and jack up your jeep by the rear bumper until the rear wheels are off the ground. Now look at your driveshaft angle. Now tell me you don't need an SYE/CV shaft. Even if the shaft doesn't fall out the angle will probably be so severe that your driveshaft may physically bind and BOOM (this is assuming your u-joints don't go before you reach the trail). Now you are looking at a new driveshaft and possibly a new transfer case and rear axle as well. I GUARANTEE that stuff is going to cost MUCH more than the SYE and cv shaft.
Of course I am one to talk...I STILL don't have an SYE but I did lower the case. My angle is not that great but I am pushing it (4 inch lift).
[addsig]
Uhh the t-case fluid will POUR out. Whenever I replaced my transmission I had to remove the driveshafts (of course). Well when separating the rear u-joint from the yoke the driveshaft accidently slipped out and I was covered in ATF in a matter of seconds. You can get away with it though if you don't wheel but if you do you may want to consider it. Especially if you are planning a spring over axle.
Go ahead and do the lift then try this...take a big jack and jack up your jeep by the rear bumper until the rear wheels are off the ground. Now look at your driveshaft angle. Now tell me you don't need an SYE/CV shaft. Even if the shaft doesn't fall out the angle will probably be so severe that your driveshaft may physically bind and BOOM (this is assuming your u-joints don't go before you reach the trail). Now you are looking at a new driveshaft and possibly a new transfer case and rear axle as well. I GUARANTEE that stuff is going to cost MUCH more than the SYE and cv shaft.
Of course I am one to talk...I STILL don't have an SYE but I did lower the case. My angle is not that great but I am pushing it (4 inch lift).
[addsig]
Joopin
Super Moderator
1065204
Hey RayOvac, what does cv stand for anyways... is this cv shaft an upgraded driveshaft? What is different about it?
And BlueBelle... what do you mean your old nickname? I came up with that logo and the name when I was lifting one day... and I made a bunch of stickers and that icon... [addsig]
Hey RayOvac, what does cv stand for anyways... is this cv shaft an upgraded driveshaft? What is different about it?
And BlueBelle... what do you mean your old nickname? I came up with that logo and the name when I was lifting one day... and I made a bunch of stickers and that icon... [addsig]
Bounty__Hunter
Super Moderator
1065228
If your stock, you will not need to do anything to the driveshaft with a 1" shackle lift. The 2" body lift does not alter the drivetrain, so it's of no concern when dealing with driveshaft angles and lengths.
The CV (Constant Velocity) shaft is properly named a double cardan joint. It is used when the driveshaft is at such a steep angle that an ordinary u-joint will bind and/or cause bad vibrations. It uses two u-joints at the transfer case end instead of one. Look at the front driveshaft of a stock TJ or XJ and you'll see a double cardan joint near the transfer case.
Adding length to the driveshaft will not help the shaft angle at the transfer case output. Adding a CV joint without doing a SYE will make for a very short driveshaft, which makes the angle even steeper. A SYE can add around 4" to the rear driveshaft length, which will decrease the angle and allow for a CV shaft.
Lowering the crossmember will help alleviate the rear shaft angle and usually works for lifts up to 4", BUT you also decrease your breakover angle, which works to negate the benefits of a lift. You lifted to gain clearance, why lower the crossmember and give that clearance up.
My SYE and CV shaft will cost me about $150. I'm using a TJ rear housing for the transfer case, and shortening a front CV shaft from an XJ. Also doing the hack and tap for the SYE.[addsig]
If your stock, you will not need to do anything to the driveshaft with a 1" shackle lift. The 2" body lift does not alter the drivetrain, so it's of no concern when dealing with driveshaft angles and lengths.
The CV (Constant Velocity) shaft is properly named a double cardan joint. It is used when the driveshaft is at such a steep angle that an ordinary u-joint will bind and/or cause bad vibrations. It uses two u-joints at the transfer case end instead of one. Look at the front driveshaft of a stock TJ or XJ and you'll see a double cardan joint near the transfer case.
Adding length to the driveshaft will not help the shaft angle at the transfer case output. Adding a CV joint without doing a SYE will make for a very short driveshaft, which makes the angle even steeper. A SYE can add around 4" to the rear driveshaft length, which will decrease the angle and allow for a CV shaft.
Lowering the crossmember will help alleviate the rear shaft angle and usually works for lifts up to 4", BUT you also decrease your breakover angle, which works to negate the benefits of a lift. You lifted to gain clearance, why lower the crossmember and give that clearance up.
My SYE and CV shaft will cost me about $150. I'm using a TJ rear housing for the transfer case, and shortening a front CV shaft from an XJ. Also doing the hack and tap for the SYE.[addsig]
