Sheared my axle in half! Need help with repair (and how to drive better!)

[rissacher]

2005 Wrangler X (TJ) with LSD. 4" Superlift with 33s.
Last night I heard a pop and when I got out and looked the right rear wheel was sticking out farther than it should. I jacked it up and gave the little pull on the wheel and it came right off with an axle attached. The other end is sheared off... like if you took a piece of taffy and twisted it a couple times until it broke.

First question is repair... Looks like there are a lot of axles that I can buy. Any reccomendations? Will some of the ones that advertise themselves as being stronger really hold up better than the stock axle? Should I replace both rear axles while I'm at it? Do I need to inspect anything else for dammage (front axles? transfers?). I'm no mechanic... so please be specific and talk dumb to me! Is this something I should even be doing myself? Has anyone seen good repair instructions out there, or should I just go buy a Chilton manual?

The second question is whether this is going to happen again. Is this pretty common in with my setup? How do I ensure this doesn't happen while driving on the interstate? Is it likely from long-term wear or did it just happen last night (I will admit I probably wasn't treating her very nice... driving aggressively in 8 inches of snow with 4WD, fishtailing... even I hate to admit using the e-brake to skid). Not only do I not relish a wheel flying off at 70mph, but I don't know how I'll convince my wife to let me drive the family around anymore!
thanks,
Dan

 

[ljrubitm]

Sounds like you broke the C-clip.Go to Stu Olson'sweb page, look under axles there's a write up on axle removel.

 

[Bounty__Hunter]

First off, welcome the Z.

Fixing it isn't too difficult, but time consuming. Pick up a spare shaft, they're plentiful as many people upgrade to a heavier rear axle assembly. You need a '91+ axleshaft from an XJ/TJ/YJ/MJ/ZJ with the d35 rear axle. The two rear axleshafts are different length, so buy the set or the correct side.

Then pull the diff cover and begin the tedious task of pulling the broken axleshaft stub from the diff carrier. Don't forget all the small bits of broken axleshaft that are surely lying in the bottom of the axletube. Don't ask how I know, done this repair many times on the trail (luckily never on my own jeep).

Then install the replacement shaft with the c-clip to hold it in place.

May need to replace or repair the brake cylinder on the side that broke, they often spit the cups out when the drum slides away from the backing plate.

 

[rissacher]

I'm leaning towards the Superior C-Clip eliminator. Costs about twice as much as just a pair of stronger aftermarket shafts, but it sounds like it would prevent the wheel from flying off if I were to break another shaft sometime which is my main fear. Its $620.

I could also get a new differential too so that I can go to a 30-spline shaft. What I'm not sure about is whether this means the shaft is actually stronger? The number of splines itself shouldn't make much difference, but I was reading something that talked about a narrow point on the 27-spline which is often the break point and doesn't exist on the 30-spline. Is it worth upgrading the differential just to get 30-spline?

There's a Super 35, 30 Spline Axle Kit w/ Auburn ECTED (1991-06) - Disco. for $876... that's only about $250 more than the above kit. Would it be worth it? Is it going to be a lot harder to install for an amateur?

 

[jps4jeep]

Waste of money, for what that C-clip eliminator cost, you can get a D44 (from a TJ complete bolt in) or a 8.8 (little more work) and have no C-clips (D44 only) and a way stronger axle than the D35. By the time your done throwing money at the D35, you could have a stout built D44 and something you will never have with a D35... a piece of mind.

Example, for a little more than what you listed up there, you could have a trail series Dana 60 rear axle

 

[Utah_jeepster]

I'm leaning towards the Superior C-Clip eliminator. Costs about twice as much as just a pair of stronger aftermarket shafts, but it sounds like it would prevent the wheel from flying off if I were to break another shaft sometime which is my main fear. Its $620.

I could also get a new differential too so that I can go to a 30-spline shaft. What I'm not sure about is whether this means the shaft is actually stronger? The number of splines itself shouldn't make much difference, but I was reading something that talked about a narrow point on the 27-spline which is often the break point and doesn't exist on the 30-spline. Is it worth upgrading the differential just to get 30-spline?

There's a Super 35, 30 Spline Axle Kit w/ Auburn ECTED (1991-06) - Disco. for $876... that's only about $250 more than the above kit. Would it be worth it? Is it going to be a lot harder to install for an amateur?

Both options are a viable, the Super 35 kit comes with life time axles. The installation is difficult because you have to change bearings in the axle including the races to fit the different axle shafts. This requires a long bar to tap in the bearing races. A thermos of liquid nitrogen to freeze the races will help.
A partner of mine has run the super 35 kit with a ARB for several years and has had no problems running 35 inch tires on the rocks of Moab. (the blue jeep). It does require him to use a lighter foot sometime because of the inherent weakness of the Dana 35 axle housing. The super 35 kit still runs C-Clips but so far (3 years) he hasn't broken a single one.

Now to your next question, the spline count of any shaft makes a big difference to to the amount of contact area. the lower the spline count the less drive area comes into contact with the mating part.

 

[rissacher]

Waste of money, for what that C-clip eliminator cost, you can get a D44 (from a TJ complete bolt in) or a 8.8 (little more work) and have no C-clips (D44 only) and a way stronger axle than the D35. By the time your done throwing money at the D35, you could have a stout built D44 and something you will never have with a D35... a piece of mind.

Example, for a little more than what you listed up there, you could have a trail series Dana 60 rear axle

A D44 for the price of a C-clip elim ($620)... where can I get one? Are you talking about a local junkyard maybe? Either way... I'm not very experienced... wouldn't it be quite a bit more complicated?

I'd love to upgrade.... show me the way!

 

[rissacher]

Nevermind... I'm ordering the c-clip elminator considering I have to do the work myself since the jeep is trapped... so I can't have a pro do the work and I don't think I'm experienced enough for anything beyond an axle shaft swap of the c-clip elim.

Anyone know if the c-clip elim works with ABS? I heard someone say that it is not compatible... anyone have proof to the contrary?

 

[Bounty__Hunter]

How about just installing a replacement shaft and not hammering on the jeep until you can save up for a decent replacement axle. I wouldn't waste money on a d35.

 

[rissacher]

Nevermind on the ABS issue... Most TJs (including myn I think) don't have ABS!

Thanks for the advice, but I think the c-clip elim will be my upgrade for now. I've had the 33s for about 1.5 years now and this is my first axle break... I can live with one every year or two... especially knowing now with this kit it won't mean a wheel flying off and my whole family dying in a tumbling jeep.