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- Thread starter Latamir
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54cj3b
New member
if its a daily driver / trail rig I advise against it
If you dont do any hard core wheeling its more a waist of time and money doing any of the things listed
if its a trail rig/rock crawler only than you have a few choices
1.) put in full lockers
2.) put in lock rights
3.) weld axles yes its Cheaper to do but not a easy trail fix if something breaks
If you dont do any hard core wheeling its more a waist of time and money doing any of the things listed
if its a trail rig/rock crawler only than you have a few choices
1.) put in full lockers
2.) put in lock rights
3.) weld axles yes its Cheaper to do but not a easy trail fix if something breaks
I need it as a daily driver, but I also have been taking it out on so pretty intense trails. I cant have two vehicles right now so this has to be my daily and my toy. I live near Grove, OK and there is a place below the pensocola dam thats good trailing everything from easy to need a full mod beast.
abe
New member
I have a 2.5l and want to lock my 35 with an Aussie... is that a bad idea? i think it would b ok just because i dont have the power behind it than u guys with your 4.0's or bigger.
put a lunch box locker in the front leave the rear as is. the d35 is said to be the weakest rear axle ever put in a 4x4. the handling characteristics change drasticly with an automatic locker in the rear especially with a lifted short arm suspension they lock when on the gas and unlock when you lift off throttle pitching jeep side to side as power is diverted from one axle to both axles.i have a lockrite in front rear trak lok.daily driving this on icy roads gets very interesting to say the least keeps you on your toes
Ok thanx for the opinions, bu the question still remains What is it?
Is it that you weld the locker gears so it is always "on"? Is it where the axles are welded togeather some how? Does it make it where the hubs seem locked all the time? I rode with a guy yesterday that had his welded and he bought it that way so he didnt know what it ment but when you steer at slow speeds it has that jerky feel as if 4 wheel is kicked in.
Is it that you weld the locker gears so it is always "on"? Is it where the axles are welded togeather some how? Does it make it where the hubs seem locked all the time? I rode with a guy yesterday that had his welded and he bought it that way so he didnt know what it ment but when you steer at slow speeds it has that jerky feel as if 4 wheel is kicked in.
bobcat481
New member
Yup...that's it. Both sides of the axle are directly tied together. It doesn't slip what so ever. It's cheap, cost of a few welding rods, but VERY permanant. On-road handling suffers, just as you saw with you buddies, and it's hard on tires. Off-road, it is what it is, full power to both wheels. If I myself were to "lock" a D-35 (what you have), it would be by welding it. The D-35 is a weak axle, and not worth throwing the money of an actual locker at. You would be better money spent up-grading your rear axle to a Ford 8.8 or D-44. You can get the axles at a junk yard or Craig's list for cheap (couple bills maybe), then spend the money on the right lockers. You probably have 4:11 gears now, so that is what you need to look for. Swapping out axles is not that big of a deal. If your wanting to go cheap, weld the D-35, and when it eventually breaks, and it will, up-grade to a bigger, stronger axle.
I think I have 4:10 gears so I was told when i got this rig. It has the ax15 trans 4cyl. I have no idea on the axle I assume stock what ever that maybe. I have a 6in suspention and 1in body lift. I am new at this so please bare with me and my stupid questions, And I have lots I love off roading I go every weekend now and some times after school.
Lincoln Locker & Fozzy Lockers - Lockers, Limited Slips and other differentials this might help to explain it
Bounty__Hunter
Super Moderator
I ran a welded d35 in the rear of my '95 YJ 4banger for years, with 32" and 33" Swampers, never a problem. Still run a spool to this day, but only because I swapped the d35 for a d44. It's my daily driver, I don't mind how it runs onroad but it's not for everybody.
IMO the welded rear (lincoln locker) is the most forgiving method of locking the d35 axle, it's always locked so there is no sudden shear force of an auto locker engaging that commonly snaps axleshafts.
IMO the welded rear (lincoln locker) is the most forgiving method of locking the d35 axle, it's always locked so there is no sudden shear force of an auto locker engaging that commonly snaps axleshafts.
that is a good point that would definetly help with on road handling as well because there would not be any sudden unlocking when you lift off throttle one drawback to running a welded or locked diff is faster tire wear on the street
jfrabat
New member
I run ARB's and 33's on mine, but I also use alloy axles with 31 splines. Also, it being a selectable locker, there is no shock as bounty mentioned. BUT (and this is a BIG thing!), the cost of putting ARB's, alloys and gears is actually more than putting in a D44 rear, which I probably should have done in the first place. In any case, mine is staying as is until it granedes...
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