question about lifts

GaryMB

New member
OK, so i'm looking into cheaply lifting my jeep. I know questions like this have been asked before, but i guess i just need some clarification and opinion. I would prefer a spring over for clearance and flex purposes, but don't want to be too high up and don't want to get new drive shafts. Right now i have 1.5" HD shackles and am looking for better suspension flex and to fit at least 33's w/o rubbing. I came accross some bds yj 3.5" springs with 10k miles on them and a yj drop pitman arm for about $150. I already have extended brake lines and a t-case drop. I've looked into getting the front shackle conversion from rubicon express and it's 1" longer than stock shackles...so that's about 4.5" total lift, guess i could keep the rear shackles i have now to save some $. I would need new shocks. The thing is though, if these shackles were used on re's 4.5" lift springs like in their kit, wouldn't that yield about as much lift as a spring over? And if the re kits only use a t-case drop and shims to fix drive-line angle probs, would that be enough for a spring over?
 

RE: IFS Grand Cherokee?

RE lists the 4.5 Extreme Duty kit as requiring a SYE. Yes the 4.5XD with a 1/2" lift shackle (1" longer than stock shackles provide 1/2" lift) would be 5", very close to SOA height.

On your CJ7, if you use 3.5" BDS springs you should clear 33's with stock shackles.
 
Consider a SOA with stock springs and stock shackles if you have the ability. I'd go with the lift springs as a second choice. Either way you shouldn't need new driveshafts with the TC drop.

Stock YJ springs would be a great option.

Consider adding a full leaf to each spring pack if you really want cheap, it should give you enough room to go from your 32" now to 33" after. I did it on my YJ and a friend's and it added 1.5" each time, without stiffening the ride. It also reduces axlewrap/wheelhop and will make the spring packs last longer before sagging.
 

I need your Prayers

Lemme get this straight, Bounty: if I wanted a little lift of around an inch or so, are you saying I could just add a leaf to each spring set? If that's what you mean, what is the cost, and what is the amount of labor involved? I need just a hair of lift for tire clearance on the rear, and eventually will put a lift on, but that is going to be a long ways down the road.
 
rear shock/spring bound

Sparky, you could get a set of main leaves from a stock spring pack for next to nothin'. Get them from someone who replaced their stock springs to lift their YJ. Many times the stock springs end up getting thrown away. You should get at least an inch there, maybe 2".

Another option would be to get a set of add-a-leaves from a retailer like rubicon express, rough country, etc. They are advertised from 2" to 3" depending on the AAL. Longer leaves will give better ride quality than short ones, although I have shorties in the back of my XJ and they are surprisingly not bad. For a YJ that rides on 4 leaf springs I'd get the longer ones.

Buying a set, you'll know better how much lift you will gain, although it will never be exact due to variances in spring fatigue and weight of accessories, etc. If you go this route, getting new center pins and spring clamps included would be a plus.

The labor is alot easier than one would think. You can usually leave the springs attached at both ends and use C Clamps to ease the springs apart while the weight is taken off them by jacking the vehicle by the frame.

I'll look for a writeup to link to, but you may easily find downloadable instructions for a "retail" sat on the 'net.

This should give you an idea of what's involved:
http://www.rubiconexpress.com/instructions/rubiconexpress/RE1400-RE1415A.pdf

I did the ones on my XJ while leaving them attatched to the jeep.
 
Interesting idea. Though it's not in the budget right now, at least it gives me something to think about to keep my mind off of other problems! Thanks!!
 

RE: Re: RE: Re: RE: A Whole Year Already?!?

If you can find a set of YJ springs all it will cost you is time ;)
 
Re: RE: Re: RE: Re: RE: A Whole Year Already?!?

TwistedCopper said:
If you can find a set of YJ springs all it will cost you is time ;)

Hmmm....seems like I've got plenty of that right now!! :lol:
 
GaryMB--I would vote no on the SOA......with 21 year old CJ springs.

You'll have to make other modifications to run the YJ lift, because the front springs are 1/2" wider.

You'll need new shafts if you go SOA, but no SYE......CJs don't have slipyokes.
 

So what exactly are slipyokes? My driveshafts do get pumped with grease and extend/contract; I just always figured that had something to do with it.
 
OOH! OOH! Let me answer this one!!!! I asked pretty much the same question here once. The slip yoke is that part that contracts and expands. The two parts of the drive shaft fit into each other with splines like on an axle. That allows the rear end to flex and travel without binding up the drive shaft. With a taller lift, too much flex and travel would pull the driveshaft apart, so with them you need the SYE, or Slip Yoke Eliminator, a solid driveshaft.

Ok, was I right? Did I do my homework guys? I know it's been a while since I asked that question here, so if I'm wrong take it easy on me, ok?
 
RE: NW event

So would the Rubicon Express AAL give you 1 or 2 inches? They don't advertise any lift gain from the aal, just prevent axle wrap, but I figured it would have to give you some lift.
 

So what exactly are slipyokes? My driveshafts do get pumped with grease and extend/contract; I just always figured that had something to do with it.

The CJ doesn't have a slipyoke on the Tcase like the new process cases found in that later model junk :wink: Sorry, I should have clarified that. A SYE kit replaces the slipyoke setup that is used on the back of those later model cases.
 
MerkL said:
So would the Rubicon Express AAL give you 1 or 2 inches? They don't advertise any lift gain from the aal, just prevent axle wrap, but I figured it would have to give you some lift.
Hmmm. Good question. I dunno.

Sparky, yeah you were right but backwards.

the slip yoke is at the transfer case output, not in the driveshaft. When you do a slip yoke eliminator, you change the TC output to a fixed type and then replace the solid driveshaft with one that expands/contracts.
 
Doh!!! Well, I knew more about it than I did a year ago, thanks to the Jeepz' Audience of Experts!!

And now that I think about it, that would make a lot more sense!
 

Well i just came across a set of yj springs for...FREE! All I have to do is pick them up before the guy takes them to the dump.
 
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