MUX/T TOW fuse draining battery
- Thread starter RCJP
- Start date
Hi HEADZ!!
BIG BIG UPDATE.
THE BCM IS OK, THE CONNECTOR C383 (AJAR SWITCH SENSE FOR ALL DOORS, SEAT BELT, PARK BRAKE) WHE I DISCONECTED THIS CONNECTOR AND MEASURED CURRENT THE BCM TURNED OFF AFTER ABOUT A MINUTE.
YESSSS!!!.
SO THE PROBLEM WAS... THE LIFTGATE AJAR SWITCH SENSE DOES NOT WORK SO THE BCM THINKS ITS OPEN AND THAT IS WHY IT NEVER TURNED OFF. I JUST DISCONNECTED THIS SENSE AND BINGO I'LL FIX IT SO IT WORKS LATER..
THANKS ALOT FOR ALL YOURE HELP.
I'LL BE UPLOADING PHOTOS OF ALL THE MESS I DID TO FIND THIS.
8)8)8)
BIG BIG UPDATE.
THE BCM IS OK, THE CONNECTOR C383 (AJAR SWITCH SENSE FOR ALL DOORS, SEAT BELT, PARK BRAKE) WHE I DISCONECTED THIS CONNECTOR AND MEASURED CURRENT THE BCM TURNED OFF AFTER ABOUT A MINUTE.
YESSSS!!!.
SO THE PROBLEM WAS... THE LIFTGATE AJAR SWITCH SENSE DOES NOT WORK SO THE BCM THINKS ITS OPEN AND THAT IS WHY IT NEVER TURNED OFF. I JUST DISCONNECTED THIS SENSE AND BINGO I'LL FIX IT SO IT WORKS LATER..
THANKS ALOT FOR ALL YOURE HELP.
I'LL BE UPLOADING PHOTOS OF ALL THE MESS I DID TO FIND THIS.
8)8)8)
SteelHeadz
Super Moderator
Hi HEADZ!!
BIG BIG UPDATE.
THE BCM IS OK, THE CONNECTOR C383 (AJAR SWITCH SENSE FOR ALL DOORS, SEAT BELT, PARK BRAKE) WHE I DISCONECTED THIS CONNECTOR AND MEASURED CURRENT THE BCM TURNED OFF AFTER ABOUT A MINUTE.
YESSSS!!!.
SO THE PROBLEM WAS... THE LIFTGATE AJAR SWITCH SENSE DOES NOT WORK SO THE BCM THINKS ITS OPEN AND THAT IS WHY IT NEVER TURNED OFF. I JUST DISCONNECTED THIS SENSE AND BINGO I'LL FIX IT SO IT WORKS LATER..
THANKS ALOT FOR ALL YOURE HELP.
I'LL BE UPLOADING PHOTOS OF ALL THE MESS I DID TO FIND THIS.
8)8)8)
That open line will do it. I'm glad you found it.
I think I am having the same problem to an extent.
98 JGC Laredo I6. My DMM must be shot because I can't measure Amps so I'm using a test light. Destroyed two batteries so now the neg cable is off.
Here is what I'm experiencing, a big parasitic draw (bright test light flashing).
Pulled fuse #7 (20 Amp) and the test light is not lit.
But I put fuse 7 in back in and pulled the 50 Amp Mux/t tow fuze and no test light lit.
But put the 50 Amp fuse back in and pulled the 40 Amp IOD fuse and I have a very dim test light which is not flashing.
Does anyone know what this means or where do I go from here?
I have disconnected the wiring to the drivers door but no change.
Just unplugged all the connections for the rear liftgate but still a draw.
98 JGC Laredo I6. My DMM must be shot because I can't measure Amps so I'm using a test light. Destroyed two batteries so now the neg cable is off.
Here is what I'm experiencing, a big parasitic draw (bright test light flashing).
Pulled fuse #7 (20 Amp) and the test light is not lit.
But I put fuse 7 in back in and pulled the 50 Amp Mux/t tow fuze and no test light lit.
But put the 50 Amp fuse back in and pulled the 40 Amp IOD fuse and I have a very dim test light which is not flashing.
Does anyone know what this means or where do I go from here?
I have disconnected the wiring to the drivers door but no change.
Just unplugged all the connections for the rear liftgate but still a draw.
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ok the 40amp fuse IOD power (among other things) the electronic flasher, trough fuse #13 take out this fuse to see if flashing stops, also check to see if you dont have youre turn signal set.
Other fuses that are power by the IOD 40amp fuse are.
Fuse #16 ( lighting inside and underhood)
Fuse #19 (Head lamp dimmer)
Fuse #20 (Radio,auto temp control,..)
Circuit Braker 3 (Power seats)
Other fuses that are power by the IOD 40amp fuse are.
Fuse #16 ( lighting inside and underhood)
Fuse #19 (Head lamp dimmer)
Fuse #20 (Radio,auto temp control,..)
Circuit Braker 3 (Power seats)
Turn signal not set, still drawing power. Pulled fuze 13, still drawing power and I can hear a ticking sound from the passenger kick panel fuze box when I touch the test light probe on the neg post. I'll also pull each of the other fuses to doyuble check but I think I've already pulled each one. I am unfamiliar with CB 3?
Pulled Fuse 16 and test light lit but not blinking.
Pulled Fuse 19 and test light lit and blinking.
Pulled Fuse 20 and test light lit and blinking.
Pulled Fuse 16 and test light lit but not blinking.
Pulled Fuse 19 and test light lit and blinking.
Pulled Fuse 20 and test light lit and blinking.
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Hi this is a pic of the kcik panel also called the junction block.
ok if that fuse did not stop the power drain. lets go back to the MUX/T TOW fuse. this fuse also powers a couple of things you already tried fuse #7 this powers the body control module. so something that the control moduel is controling or the module it self could be the problem.
the clicking sound could the the relay that turns lights on.. i'm guessing you have youre doors open. if that is the case take out the courtsey lamp relay. this may stop the sound. put it back when you are done.
Fuse MUX/T TOW 50Amp powers.
Fuse #7
Fuse #8
Fuse #9
CB #2
ok if that fuse did not stop the power drain. lets go back to the MUX/T TOW fuse. this fuse also powers a couple of things you already tried fuse #7 this powers the body control module. so something that the control moduel is controling or the module it self could be the problem.
the clicking sound could the the relay that turns lights on.. i'm guessing you have youre doors open. if that is the case take out the courtsey lamp relay. this may stop the sound. put it back when you are done.
Fuse MUX/T TOW 50Amp powers.
Fuse #7
Fuse #8
Fuse #9
CB #2
no the red OVAL is CB3 Zoom in so you can see the names. and yes you can just pull it like you would do to a fuse.
ok if doors are close and you can still here the click noise when you put the probe. try to ID wich relay it is. so you can pull it out and then check for power drian with the relay out.
you need to take out the plastic cover to be able to get to the realys.
I recomend you check for power drain with only one thing pulled out so you can pin point the problem fuse/relay/cb that is causign the drain.
ok if doors are close and you can still here the click noise when you put the probe. try to ID wich relay it is. so you can pull it out and then check for power drian with the relay out.
you need to take out the plastic cover to be able to get to the realys.
I recomend you check for power drain with only one thing pulled out so you can pin point the problem fuse/relay/cb that is causign the drain.
that is not posible the BODY A are only cables on the items marked as RELAY can make a click sound. another more drastic way is to take out all the samll fuse in the kick panel and put them back one by one and checking to see wich one generates the power drain. put only one fuse at a time and check the probe, or do this as you are taking them out.
need to go home
i will reply tomorrow
need to go home
i will reply tomorrow
OK now we need to know if is the Body control module.
first the body control module is under the stearing column. it would be just Above youre LEFT knee if you were seeting on th driver seat.
It is a Black plastic box with 3 connectors 2 are close to each other one is Color White and the other is Black same size. And a third connecto that is samller inthe bottom of the box.
to see if it is no a door/liftgate probelm:
0) put all fuses/relays/CB back and disconnect the under hood light.
1) disconect the samller connector of the Body control MODULE (BCM).
2) close all doors
3) put youre test light like you have been doing. (it should be bright)
4) with the remote lock the doors
if after aminute the test light does not turn off or goes to a very dim light.
that means that it is not a door sensor causing the problem.
so wee now need to put that connector back.
let me know what happens
first the body control module is under the stearing column. it would be just Above youre LEFT knee if you were seeting on th driver seat.
It is a Black plastic box with 3 connectors 2 are close to each other one is Color White and the other is Black same size. And a third connecto that is samller inthe bottom of the box.
to see if it is no a door/liftgate probelm:
0) put all fuses/relays/CB back and disconnect the under hood light.
1) disconect the samller connector of the Body control MODULE (BCM).
2) close all doors
3) put youre test light like you have been doing. (it should be bright)
4) with the remote lock the doors
if after aminute the test light does not turn off or goes to a very dim light.
that means that it is not a door sensor causing the problem.
so wee now need to put that connector back.
let me know what happens
Just got back from messing with it. I think I found the problem(s). Definetly one problem is the relay. Swapped it with another and no ticking. I disconnected the overhead console and no draw. Plugged it back in and draw. When I pulled the grey connector no draw. Plugged it back in and bright test light. I believe one of those plastic light panels that activate the switch or whatever that activates the light is causing a problem. I really need to get a new DMM to accurately measure the draw. I am still going to follow your last post. I am going to start putting both front door panels and tailgate panel back. You have been a big help.
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