Locking Hubs

[88Wrangles]

Well, this is probably a stupid question , but how exactly do locking hubs work? I'm talking about the ones where you have to get out and manually lock them in. Does it lock the axles together like a spool or lincoln locker would? If it's not like a locker, why do you have to lock them in, in addition to shifting the transfer case?

Thank you in advance!!

 

[jps4jeep]

Lockes the axles on each side. the other option would be what 99% of new 4WD's have and that is auto hubs (like on your jeep), You pull the Tcase into 4wd, there is a vacumn line that is accuated and locks out your axle.

I think Manual hubs are a lot stonger and more reliable but that is just me!

 

[Jeeplover]

While we're on locking hubs, my passenger side hub (Warn Premiums by the way) will not budge by hand. It takes channel locks or the like to get enough torque to twist the mechanism. I had the front apart repacking the front bearings and tore the hub apart, cleaned, steel wooled (#0000) any moving parts that were corroded lubed with white lithium and reassembled. Still will not turn by hand. E-mailed Warn technical support for help and info on a rebuild kit about 4 weeks ago now without ever receiving a reply. Any suggestions from the Jeep sages here? Thanks in advavce.
D 8)

 

[phatyaspen]

jeeplover.... my friend has a toyota and thats what we did with his when his hubs got hard to turn... and it worked like a charm other them taking it apart and cleaning it i would consider new ones

i agree with you jps i think manual lockin hubs are way stronger and more reliable...my next upgrade is the mm manual locking hub kit

 

[Jeeplover]

Duh! forgot to answer the question above!! OK Bear with me as I attempt to give descriptions and possibly visuals. Don't have an image for this but Quadratec catalog has an exploded drawing in the brakes section. Looking at the exploded drawing and picturing the parts assembled, the rotor rides on the bearings which rides on the axle. They are free to rotate separately when the hub is unlocked. The hub assembly is screwed onto the end of the rotor and travels with it. Inside of the hub is a mechanism with an agressive pitched thread. Contained within the hub also is what Warn terms a clutch ring.

http://www.quadratec.com/cgi-bin/sg...QA=1&UREQB=2&UREQC=3&UREQD=4&FNM=00&x=76&y=29
The large outside teeth are always engaged to the hub. When the hub is rotated to lock, the clutch is moved onto the end of the axle and the inside set of teeth engage the axle locking the rotor and axle together. This allows power to be transfered through the front diff to the front wheels. Clear as mud? Hope this helps.
D 8)

 

[Jeeplover]

Thanks for the input phatyaspen. That is my other possible solution is just to replace. Anyone have any thoughts on the brands other than Warn (ie Superwinch, Milemarker)?
D

 

[phatyaspen]

warn sticks out first then i would go with milemarker and then superwinch... these are all good names in a certain order i believe thats the way i would pick them

 

[88Wrangles]

Duh! forgot to answer the question above!! OK Bear with me as I attempt to give descriptions and possibly visuals. Don't have an image for this but Quadratec catalog has an exploded drawing in the brakes section. Looking at the exploded drawing and picturing the parts assembled, the rotor rides on the bearings which rides on the axle. They are free to rotate separately when the hub is unlocked. The hub assembly is screwed onto the end of the rotor and travels with it. Inside of the hub is a mechanism with an agressive pitched thread. Contained within the hub also is what Warn terms a clutch ring.

http://www.quadratec.com/cgi-bin/sg...QA=1&UREQB=2&UREQC=3&UREQD=4&FNM=00&x=76&y=29
The large outside teeth are always engaged to the hub. When the hub is rotated to lock, the clutch is moved onto the end of the axle and the inside set of teeth engage the axle locking the rotor and axle together. This allows power to be transfered through the front diff to the front wheels. Clear as mud? Hope this helps.
D 8)

Okay, that's how I figured it worked, but I wanted to know for sure. So while it sounds like it is a fairly stronger system compaired to using a vaccuum, that is the only difference? It doesn't lock the axles together (like a spool) or anything like that?

 

[Junkpile]

There are no locking hubs(manual or auto) with a vacuum system. Drive flanges are the strongest way to go but you can't disconnect the tire from the axles which will spin the diff and Dshaft the whole time the vehicle is moving. This is possible, but it it adds to wear and isn't very economical from a fuel usage standpoint unless you have the vacuum disconnect to go along with it. Drive flanges are just little disks that are splined on the inside for the axle shaft to fit in and holes around the perimeter so it can be bolted on in the same place that a locking hub body would. Solid drive, no moving parts. Instead of a conventional wheel bearing and driveflange or locking hub setup, the newer Jeeps use unit bearings.
Manual hubs are stronger than autos. The other advantage to manuals is that once locked, it's locked. Autos unlock and lock again when changing direction of rotation.

 

[88Wrangles]

Okay, this all makes sence now--Thank you guys very much!!

Also, when wheeling, I'm guessing that you always have to have the hubs locked and the t-case engaged in 4x4, right. What happens if you just do one or the other?

 

[Jeeplover]

You can have the hubs locked whenever you like. I lock mine in just before snow season hits up here because when I'm dressed for work inevitably it has snowed and I get the clothing dirty before work. Like Junkpile said the main drawback of running like this is more wear and tear. Until the transfer case is in four wheel drive there is not any power transferred to the front driveshaft. Until this happens, no traction (power) is supplied to the front. Got it? Hope this helps.
Patyaspen,
Thanks for the input. That was the direction I was leaning with the selections I listed.
D 8)

 

[jay79cj7]

I can't remember what brand manual hubs I have, but I think they are milemarker. I had the same problem where it was real tough to turn the dial. I think I figured out that it was the spring inside there that was out of place a little. I'd mess with it more before shelling out another 100 bucks. You know you will want it next week for some other broken Jeep part!

 

[Jeeplover]

True. As old as mine is and the neglect it has seen before me (and some since) there is always something else. I may yank that hub again before I'm finished with the brakes, etc. and check it out again. Thanks,
D 8)