Ok well i figured out my window problem, damn wires broke, it would be nice if they broke like 1" from the black box but no they have to break right at the end of the box so they cant be spliced, my luck always has to be like that its never an easy problem, it couldnt be like the connector ame apart or something easy like that, no it has to be the wires, and where they cant be spliced, nope, sure cant, noway, no surey bob......ok i am done now, now i need to post my question to figure out how to fix it, thanks for listing to me vent
Just A Lil Venting
- Thread starter Jeeper89
- Start date
ok this may be a stupid question but o well, will the solder melt the plastic box, they box these wires went into are plastic, if not then i will try that and hope that will work, i am sure my shop at college has a soldering gun if not my friend has one, and i know what soldering is i have never really tryed, thanks for the idea
MudderChuck
New member
Which box are you talking about? The connector at the back of the switch master panel or maybe the one on the window motor itself? If it´s the one on the window motor itself, I can talk you through it, it´s not all that hard to fix, just tricky.
Inorder to solder and not melt the plastic, keep the iron at the parthest point away from the plastic, 4 example.. if you stick the pin in and it measures 1/2, put the iron at the tip of the pin, slowly add solder to the iron on the other side of the pin and let the solder drip down the pin to the wire. By the time the solder reaches the wire, It will be a little cooler, but less likely to do any major damage!
MudderChuck
New member
Gas Tank Conversion
I´m pretty sure your 89 is the same as my 88. On the back of the little black box on the window motor (opposite side from where the wires go in), there is a cap that can be pried off. Inside the box, there are two spade/bayonet connectors that can be taken out the back. Must be a french made motor, the bayonet connectors work backwards, you push where the wires go in and they slide out the back. Can be replaced with standard bayonet/spade connector and run out the back, where the cap was. And the wires, tied up, to clear the window and door opening/locking rods. If you hook up the wires backwords, the switch will probably work in reverse. If your worried about water getting in the box, just fill the whole thing up with a little silicon. I made a small loop and tied the cable to the motor with cable ties, so it wouldn´t break again in the same area.
The whole operation, could be really hard with the motor in the door. A 1/4 inch drill, will drill out the rivets pretty quick. For the motor and the small brace across the opening. There is one nut on the window bottom that has to be removed (don´t over tighten when reinstalling). A handfull of 1/4 inch nuts and bolts and a few lock washers will put things back together again. Getting the motor out, with the cable and tube is doable, it´s just a little like a puzzle and requires some time trial and error, gently. I didn´t have to bend anything. The book says one window rail (front) has to be removed, I got mine out without removing the window rail and/or messing anything up, just took a little while.
I think they changed the window motor in 91, pretty sure you have the same as my 88.
P.S. I made a little hook out of welding rod to hold the window up.
I´m pretty sure your 89 is the same as my 88. On the back of the little black box on the window motor (opposite side from where the wires go in), there is a cap that can be pried off. Inside the box, there are two spade/bayonet connectors that can be taken out the back. Must be a french made motor, the bayonet connectors work backwards, you push where the wires go in and they slide out the back. Can be replaced with standard bayonet/spade connector and run out the back, where the cap was. And the wires, tied up, to clear the window and door opening/locking rods. If you hook up the wires backwords, the switch will probably work in reverse. If your worried about water getting in the box, just fill the whole thing up with a little silicon. I made a small loop and tied the cable to the motor with cable ties, so it wouldn´t break again in the same area.
The whole operation, could be really hard with the motor in the door. A 1/4 inch drill, will drill out the rivets pretty quick. For the motor and the small brace across the opening. There is one nut on the window bottom that has to be removed (don´t over tighten when reinstalling). A handfull of 1/4 inch nuts and bolts and a few lock washers will put things back together again. Getting the motor out, with the cable and tube is doable, it´s just a little like a puzzle and requires some time trial and error, gently. I didn´t have to bend anything. The book says one window rail (front) has to be removed, I got mine out without removing the window rail and/or messing anything up, just took a little while.
I think they changed the window motor in 91, pretty sure you have the same as my 88.
P.S. I made a little hook out of welding rod to hold the window up.
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