I am trying to put my balance on my Chevy 350 and I am using the installer tool. It seems like the balance isn't going in all the way. THe timing chain is all the way on so that isn't the problem. When I look behind the balancer, it seems as if I have .25" to still go in. Does it still need to go farther back or is it ok that far. I got the installer to push it on and it seems like the balancer just wont go back anymore. Any ideas? I need to have it in the right spot also so the pulleys line up.
Harmonic balancer will not fully seat
- Thread starter bryanjeep
- Start date
derff96963
New member
I guess I would say check the Pulley alignment. It they seem pretty straight and the belt doesn't come off I wouldn't worry about it.
redrooster
New member
If the keyways line up then you should have it. You can pull it back off and check the end of the crank for burrs. They will keep it from going all the way down. My 360 looked the same way when I installed the balancer. It looked like it should go down more but didn't. It still looks that way but runs fine and never throws belts. I would reference a Chilton or Haynes manual. Whoever balanced the engine and crank should be able to tell you.
I am using the harm bal installer remover tool. I think the crank has burrs on it preventing the balancer to go on. They are sending me a new balancer though for free. I have to take the timing cover, water pump, and oil pan off to file the crank key down. :evil:
Does the crank keyway taper as it gets closer to the end of the crank?
Does the crank keyway taper as it gets closer to the end of the crank?
redrooster
New member
Nope. The end is usually rounded off though. Is the engine in the Jeep or on a stand?
redrooster
New member
Tape off the seal area and lightly sand the end of the crank to remove the burrs. Do the same for the inside of the balancer. Put a light coat of oil inside the balancer and try it again.
LBR
New member
just a couple of ideas - 1) if it still looks like it's lacking .25" or so this time, take a critical measurement from the inside (closest to the block) of the outer balancer ring to , say, the block. Check another 350 of approx. year for said measurement and compare. (not a prefered method) 2) after installed, remove installer tool and take a sledge and LIGHTLY tap the center of the balancer a few times. If you have ever had the feel of a component that is not seated when struck in this way, the feel and sound is more of a "thud/clunk" and the sledge doesn't bounce back much. If that puppy IS seated against the crank timing gear properly, then when you tap the balancer, you will receive a joyous sound, more of a "clang" and the sledge will bounce back a bit more than if not seated. This is a method I use every rebuild to verify if the balancer is trully against the timing gear. Be advised that this is only a sound/feel process and damage can occur to your thrust bearing if you hammer too hard (please guys, no hate mail!) If that doesn't work, get a bigger hammer (joke!) LBR
redrooster
New member
You can also do some measuring. Take it off and measure the length of the crank to the timing gear. Then measure the width of the balancer. This may be done easier with a metal scale rather than a tape measure since you will have to go in under the seal.
