distribuer out of synch?

M612

New member
The dealer told me my distributer was out of synch?
Does that make sence to any body?
they say they changed a spark plug and resynched the dist.
Seems to run better but what was it out of synch with?
Do they mean timing was out?
 

what are you running - i've heard of being out of phase (180 deg for some, some drives have hex which makes it more fun!) = could "out of synch" mean wires crossed? wish i had more input = new one on me!
 

RE: Automatic Lockers

just one plug fouled? hmmmm... if it were crossed wires stands to reason that the other "offending" cyl would have the same symptoms - keep an eye on that one - did they say if it was gas or oil fouled? (although oil fouling usually has visible smoke b/4 the plug takes a dump...) - weird you'd have 1 fouled - my old HO 4.0 never did - you may still yet want to follow up w/another dealer or shop (just read your first post) and check your injectors out... b/4 the warranty goes bye-bye.... just another $.02
 
Hmm, I thought all newer 4.0L's were distributorless? Since around '00.

I know they have something coming out the hole where the distributors used to be, and it's possible this 'distributor' gear could have been off by 1 tooth or so where it meshes with the camshaft gear.
 
I'm with Bounty on that one. Take it to another Jeep dealer if it's still under warranty and ask what's going on.
On pre EFI engines, if the distributor was off by one tooth it would run like crap. You could still time it if there was enough room to rotate the housing far enough to compensate. You should have noticed roughness from the first day. Have you done any igniton mods to the engine? Who would have messed with the i
 

I only have 5600 miles on it, and everything is stock the only thing I have done is change oil
& run some STP injecter cleaner thru. What ever they did it seems to be running alot better.
 
That's good.
I would stop using the injector cleaner though. It will void some manufacturers warranties. I have never been a fan of any additives or magic motor oil or any of that crap. My experiences have led to the belief that they do more harm than good. If you keep the fuel, oil and air filters changed you should not need any additives.
I'm also of the belief that if you break an engine in on 87 Octane, you should not change to a higher Octane just to clean it our or get more oomph. I can not support this with any data, but if an engine is used to running on 87 and you give it something higher, then the valves and seals won't like going back to the weaker stuff. That is opinion only, so don't start an argument over it.
 
Bounty__Hunter said:
Hmm, I thought all newer 4.0L's were distributorless? Since around '00.
True. My 2000 4.0L XJ has a distributorless ignition.

Sounds like they fed you a line of bull.
 

RE: it just cut off...

There is still something in the hole where the distributor used to be, I'm guessing now it's just the camshaft sensor and still meshes with the distributor gear on the camshaft. It's possible this could have been improperly meshed from the factory, off by one tooth on the camshaft gear.
 
well 2 days and it running like crap again.
it seems ok for back and forth to work (short trip maybe 4 miles). the farther I go the worse it gets so back to dealer again on monday.
What should the idle be @ with a 4l auto anyway?
temp guage @ 210 is that normal?
Is a little bit rough idle normal for jeep?
I need some kind of basic knowlege of jeeps so when I'm talking (or yelling) at serve manager, I don't sound stupid.
(I always owned Ford trucks and could fix anything on them myself) Thanks for all your help I'm just getting really pissed off right now.
 
210 is normal for most all newer FI jeeps.

Keep close track of how many times you have it to the dealer for this one problem, and check into your state's lemon laws.
 
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