Dana 44 vs. Super 35
- Thread starter Jesse
- Start date
Not necessarily a bad idea, but there are a few determining factors. For example, your profile says you are currently running 33" tires. Do you plan on going any larger?? Do you have or are you planning on running a locker? How hard and how often do you wheel?? From what I've gathered (and I'm sure others will correct me if I'm wrong) if you stick with 33's and don't run a locker you'll probably be OK with a Super 35. If you're going to run any kind of locker, or if you wheel hard and often, you'll be better off with the 44. The 44 is going to be a better option no matter what, but you might be able to live with the Super 35 depending on some of the things I mentioned.
xjmarc
New member
Wouldn't spend a dime on a 35 (again). I snapped alloy shafts running 33s with a locker on mine. You can polish a turd but in the end it's still a turd. The shafts are weak but so is the housing. If you spend the coin on the super 35 kit, which means you have to run a locker you have almost the same strength as a stock 44, almost. Plus going to a 44 means no c-clips to break which means your wheel won't fall off if you do break a shaft. Not saying you won't break a shaft in a 44, I've broke one in my 60 running 35s, but it will take a lot more since not only is the spline count higher but the shaft is bigger as well. If you look around you may be able to find a factory TJ 44 that will bolt right in.
jfrabat
New member
I'm running an SD35 with ARB; I run mud, though, not rocks, but so far, no problems. The housing IS weaker than the D44, but you also loose ground clearance with the D44. If I had to do it over again, i would probably go to Ford 8.8 or D44 with 35's, though, as the D44 also let you gear deeper.
Bounty__Hunter
Super Moderator
Minuscule amount.
at best.. drag the diff over a couple rocks and you'll be even.
I too wouldn't put any money into a D35 if you plan on driving down a dirt road.
the Super 35 kit does not address some of the hugest issues with a D35.. puny ring gear, limited gear selection, c-clip axles (assuming you have a 90-newer jeep) and axle tube flex (which is the main cause why D35 break shafts IMHO)
for a fraction of the cost, you could have a D44 or 8.8 (I prefer D44, no c-clips) built better plus have disc brakes, larger ring gear, larger shafts, minimum 30 spline axles. toss in an Ausie locker and be done
Rubiconrich
New member
Yeah the dana 35 is a Turd ,super or not it's still a Dana 35.
Dana 44 all the way.
Dana 44 all the way.
Bounty__Hunter
Super Moderator
There's nothing wrong with the Ford 8.8 and it's c-clips, not a weak spot of the axle. They're readily available, have gear ratios common to jeeps, jeep lug pattern, and disc brakes. Often a better option than a d44.
Jesse
New member
Thats exactly why I've decided to swap in the 8.8 rather then a 44.
C-clips are not the weak spot, but if you break the shaft, the tire and what is left of the shaft can wander out of the tube.. with a pressed bearing axle, if you break the shaft (assuming it is not at the flange) the tire will stay in the housing. a lot easier to get off the trail than having to lash a tree to the side of the jeep to keep the axle in.
the weak spots on teh 8.8 are where the tubes are pressed into the diff, only like 6 rosett welds holding it in there, when I've installed 8.8's, I weld the tubes to the diff, plus some trussing will go a long way, the 8.8 also suffers from tube flex. you can get a carrier girdle that helps, but there are not really designed for offroad use. (thin covers) I think Solid might make a 8.8 with a carrier gridle that is a thick cast cover.
the weak spots on teh 8.8 are where the tubes are pressed into the diff, only like 6 rosett welds holding it in there, when I've installed 8.8's, I weld the tubes to the diff, plus some trussing will go a long way, the 8.8 also suffers from tube flex. you can get a carrier girdle that helps, but there are not really designed for offroad use. (thin covers) I think Solid might make a 8.8 with a carrier gridle that is a thick cast cover.
Jesse
New member
Alright, I'll look into that, thank you.
jfrabat
New member
In all honesty, for 33's, an 8.8 would be just fine. johnny, what you mention is right, but honestly do you think an 8.8 will not last with 33's? I mean, no axle is indestructable, but I wheel my Super D35 with 33's and ARB locker (over 2 years now) and still I have not had an issue. Granted, if I were to do it again, I would go to D44 front and rear, but mostly because I would like deeper gearing.
In all honesty, I think that the D35 gets a worse reputation than it deserves. No, it is not the strongest or most reliable axle, but is not made out of glass either...
Jesse, to the original question, I would go with D44's if I were in your position. You can start with the rear and then swap out the front later on. Keep in mind the stock lug pattern on the D44 and D30 are different, though, so you will need to redrill the rear so that it accepts the same bolt pattern as the D30, or swap out both axles and change to the better pattern (and remeber to also change the spare! I've already seen people forget this only to remember it out the middle of nowhere!).
By the way, some more questions: what engine do you run? What kind of wheeling do you do? Rocks, mud, sand?
In all honesty, I think that the D35 gets a worse reputation than it deserves. No, it is not the strongest or most reliable axle, but is not made out of glass either...
Jesse, to the original question, I would go with D44's if I were in your position. You can start with the rear and then swap out the front later on. Keep in mind the stock lug pattern on the D44 and D30 are different, though, so you will need to redrill the rear so that it accepts the same bolt pattern as the D30, or swap out both axles and change to the better pattern (and remeber to also change the spare! I've already seen people forget this only to remember it out the middle of nowhere!).
By the way, some more questions: what engine do you run? What kind of wheeling do you do? Rocks, mud, sand?
jfrabat
New member
Go with the D44... You'll be able to size up the tires later on, and have more gearing options, as well as a stronger axle and housing. I use a 4banger, and wheel in mud mostly, so maybe that's why my D35 has lasted as long as it has...
You can get one out of the Isuzu Rodeo or Honda Passport from the 90's for the rear (those come with disc brakes and minidrums for e-brakes), and a waggy for the front. You then need to either change your wheels to the new lug pattern (again, remember the spare!), or redrill to the old bolt pattern (if I were you, I would change out the wheels).
You can get one out of the Isuzu Rodeo or Honda Passport from the 90's for the rear (those come with disc brakes and minidrums for e-brakes), and a waggy for the front. You then need to either change your wheels to the new lug pattern (again, remember the spare!), or redrill to the old bolt pattern (if I were you, I would change out the wheels).
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