Dana 44 Axles

JeepsterCJ5

New member
Hey I know I posted about this previously... but ... I bought a set of Dana 44 axles off my buddy. They are off of a International Scout. What do I need to do to put these under my 78 CJ5? I have NarrowTrac Axles now. I'm worried that with this built 360 my stock axles won't be able to hold up. And how hard would it be to convert to SOA?
 

There are some issues with Scout Dana 44s, particularly with the front. The hangers need to be outboard of the frame and the Scouts have 0 cast. Try this:

http://www.offroaders.com/info/tech-corner/project-cj7/project-cj7-axles.htm


As far as converting to a spring over in my opinion you are just asking for more trouble than it’s worth. Bump Steer, Bump Steer, Bump Steer, as well as a host of other issues. Take a look at what the guys at JP say:

http://www.jpmagazine.com/techarticles/suspension/154_0906_spring_over_versus_spring_under/index.html
 
I run spring over and have zero bumpsteer, so I don't really get what you're saying. SOA is no more prone to bumpsteer than a SUA lift of similar height.

As with any lift, there's a right way and a wrong way of converting to SOA. And to do it right it's generally not much cheaper than a comparable SUA lift.
 
Start with the Scout Dana 44 rear cut off the spring perches throw away
get a set of 2 1/2" spring pads and get a magnet angle finder and right down the angle of the drive shaft.Remove the old rear end drop in the Scout Dana 44 rear end .get a new set of U bolts must fit Dana 44.
you can hog out the AMC 20 plates to fit.Put new pads on the axle and fit up check side to side. and set your drive shaft angle. play with it make sure it does not bind when you rotate the drive shaft. TAC weld the pads
remove the axle Weld, stop, weld repeat,do not throw all the heat at once on the axle take your time use a Ark welder with 7018 rod not a 110 mig!
 

Bump Steer = you set up steering wrong

If it were me, I'd sell the 44's and build what you have. Both the 30 front and 20/44 rear with the right mods can handle 33" tires and a V8 quite well. I wheel with a number of people with a similar set up to yours with very healthy 360's and 401's with 35-37" tires on built D30's. yes they are a little more aware of throttle but doesn't put a bummer on their day.

Ideally, if you never plan on going larger than 35" tire, wouldn't put the cash into the 44's. I've been seeing D30 chromo's used pop up for sale for around $300 a set in really great shape. other than shaft spline count and ring diameter, the cj D30 and that D44 share Inner and outer castings, you can upgrade to D44 hi-steer knuckles and larger Ford spindles and bearings if you so desire. swap in a narrow D44 with offset or centered diff. chromos are generally cheaper. I would not be concerned with narrow trac verses wide trac.
 
I do plan to go with 38.5 tires eventually... that's why I want the stronger axles... plus I have heard tons of horror stories about the model 20.
 

lol... thought about it but I got the Dana 44's for $200 complete. I couldn't pass on that one.
 
That's the end goal... by then I'll have built a dana 60 and custom trussed 9 inch.... right now... I'm just gonna run 35 or 36 inch tires. I have a 2 inch custom shackle lift and a 4 inch spring lift (that is yet to be put on) and I want to eventually go to the larger set up doing a soa lift, but I'm undecided on whether or not I will
 

If you're going SOA, an axle swap is the time to do it. Then you wouldn't need that 4" spring lift.
 
Dana 44 and 38" tires won't last too long unless you start throwing money at it. and at that point, might as well go to 60's. D60 steering axles are getting cheap here on the east coast, I've picked up several Dually Chevy D60 for $100-$200, machine down the hubs to SRW wideth and re-sell them for $300-400 for quick flip.
 
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