Computer bypass 2100 changeout


you don't have to but it will run better if you do
 
Ok thank you. I just want to hear it start before I bypass. Closer to this nightmare being over and didn't want something else to break or fail.
 
it will be a lot better once you remove all the extra junk mine is set up like an old cj, no computer, no egr, no nothing but the cat and the carb and it runs great
 

When you say cat, are referring to catalytic converter? If so, do you need one and what will happen if I ditch mine. If not, what's a "cat"? (and not the four legged one)
 
Check your local regulations. If they do inspections, you may not pass. Here in Arkansas, if it runs it gets to go on the road. If it doesn't run we put it on blocks in the front yard. No inspections needed.
 

Mine is setup like an old cj too. Oh wait, it is an old cj. Lol
 
Hum..Im confused. If you have a 81 cj then there shouldnt be any computer, just a ignition control module. The engine isn't controled like the newer engines by a computer. As for the converter, I took everyone of mine off, the converter cuts down the emissions your exhaust puts out. I still passed emissions test when we had them, but if they visually inspect it you may fail. Like superJ said, get rid of all the junk and just run the carb
 

Now I'm confused. I may have my terminology wrong. I am trying to accomplish the "nutter" bypass. Everything I have read says to splice the orange and violet wires from distributor to "box under washer reservoir". That box is what I was referring to as the computer. Think it's really called ignition control. Sound right?
 
Yes, that is roughly the location of the control module. I may be wrong but, I have never changed any wires or done any by passes when changing a carb. Your control module should hook up to your dist and is not hooked up to the carb at all, Like I said I may be wrong. I would just change carbs and see what happens. Others seem to know what this nutter bypass is, so I think I should let them advise you and avoid telling you something incorrect. All the jeeps I have owned are from the 70's so Im not famillar with the newer 80's and up set ups.
 
Hey superj, I just removed the web of vacuum hose and took her for a spin. Seems as though the brakes are weaker. Could this be or is it in my head? Here is a pic.
 

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Did you disconnect the one to the brake booster? It's the fat one from the end of the intake, under the carb. Also, is your distributor advance still hooked up?

If you are doing the nutter, you are right in the wiring you were modifying
 
Brake booster and line untouched. Dist vacuum hooked up. I just removed and capped the plug with 5 ports. I also changes pcv to single output which goes to charcoal canister and is now in the rear of the valve cover. Front of valve cover has a breather. It's probably on my head. Braking always sucked on this. That's my next project.
 
Second reply,

I have also noticed it idles at about 750. If I rev her slowly to about 2000rpms and let off, it stays reved for a min. That mean I'm running rich?
 

No, is your throttle cable sticky? Or your tran linkage tight?Mine was likethat till I did some linkage adjustingto make the cable slide in the sheathing better. It was binding
 
Throttle doesn't seem to be sticking. Once she revs up to 2000 and stays there, if I give her a bump of gas, she comes back down to 700-800.
 

The kick down for the auto transmission. Do you have cruise control?
 
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