corvettezr1x

New member
I am having trouble with my breaks. Pedel to floor (is the term ive been seeing online). The pedal goes to the floor and sometimes makes for a scary stop. Pumping it helps and usually will fix the problem...until the next stop (it dosnt do it at every stop). I did a complete break line flush/bleed and as far as I could tell there was no air in the system. Could it be the break booster or master cylinder? I am starting to lean towards thinking it is the booster that is failing me from some of the stuff i have been reading onling, but i thought i would start my own thread and see what i get. Also when it does go to the floor if makes sort of a swooshing air sound down near the pedal, and it seems to do it more when its cold but that could just be me.


Any help/recomendations would be appreacited! :)
 

Could possibly be air in the master cylander. Best way to get it out is lift the front of the car up or park it on a hill and bleed the breaks. Also make sure the resevoir has plenty of fluid in it
 
sounds more like there is still air in the system , did the brakes work before the bleeding and flush of the system ? usually the booster makes it hard to push the pedal , the master cylinder could have air still trapped , how did you bleed the system ? when bleeding the reservoir must be checked every time you bleed one wheel , again what procedure did you use to bleed and how were they before you started the first time and did you replace anything
 
If the bleeding doesn't solve the problem, the master cylinder might have an internal leak on the primary or secondary piston. Replacing the master cylinder would be the next option. The brake booster will not cause your pedal to go down to the floor. It's only job is to assist you in applying pressure to the hydraulic System.
 

I raised the front end when i bled them. I made sure no air got into the system from the bleeders, and always had fluid in the reservoir.
The whole problem stared before I bled them and I figured I might as well well bleed them since thats way easier then monkeying around with the master cylinder and or booster. Like i mentioned it dose not always go to the floor and when it does pumping it quickly usually temporally fixes it.
Thank for the input! Is replacing the master cylinder hard to do and would it make sense to get a new booster at the same time?

Also...totally unrelated...well not really actually since they both have to do with breaks. Today I was coming home from a friends house and my road hadnt been plowed yet and there was over a foot of snow and...long story short...i got stuck. Now the break and abs lights are on...not sure why.
 
To your unrelated question... While offroading IDE get that problem. IDE be flexed out and tires spinning then go to stop and because of my abs it would get confused and release all pressure to my breaks... So... Check ur abs system cause that could also be the source of your problem. The abs will cut the pressure until you pump the breaks to make them work again
 
thanks desertrunner. The lights went off after less then 10 minutes of driving. Now im just back to the pedal to floor problem. hah. :p
 
I took it in to sears and they said it was the master cylinder. Has anyone ever changed one before? on a jeep with abs? if so is it complex and would i need a code reader control to run the abs to get the air out when i would take the cylinder out? should i replace the booster while im at it?
 
The only time you would need to replace a vacuum booster is when the diaphragm or housing is leaking vacuum . The symptom would be obvious like a hard pedal. Pre-bleed your master cylinder before you install it. Start the bleed from the closest caliper to the farthest. Make sure there's no more air coming out of the caliper/ brake cylinder your bleeding before you move to the next one. Test it by applying the brakes to make sure the pedal does not degrade its level down to the floor. If it holds, generally speaking, your done.
 
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