HI, I have a 94 YJ and I need to change my clutch badly. I have fairly good mechanical skills. I have tried before and I could not figure out how to lower my transmission, transfer, and crossmember. That was due to the YJ croosmember being so wide and long. Getting a jack in there to support the weight of the transmission and transfer case was difficult. What do I do about taking my transfer case shifter off? Do I need to buy new driveshaft u bolt straps when I take the driveshafts down? What are some things that I need to know. I already bought the clutch kit. So if you could please tell me anything that I need to know.... I really won't pay some person any money to do this for me. Thank you!!!
YJ CLUTCH CHANGE
- Thread starter bryanjeep
- Start date
Bounty__Hunter
Super Moderator
Support the transfer case tailhousing.
Unbolt the transmission mount and transfer case linkage.
Disconnect the transmission shifter from beneath the jeep, spring loaded collar inside the shift tower gets depressed turned 1/4 turn to disengage shifter.
Unbolt the crossmember and remove.
Place transmission jack under transmission/transfer case assembly, floor jack if your good and careful.
Support the engine under the oilpan, use block of wood against oilpan.
Remove front and rear driveshafts, you can reuse the straps and bolts.
Disconnect speedo cable from tailshaft of transfer case.
Disconnect Crank Position Sensor and clutch slave from bellhousing.
Disconnect reverse light harness from transmission.
Disconnect 4-prong vacuum harness from top of transfer case.
Unbolt bellhousing and remove transmission/transfer case assembly.
Let me know if I skipped something, I'll edit it to be complete as possible. Good luck.
2.5L or 4.0L?
Unbolt the transmission mount and transfer case linkage.
Disconnect the transmission shifter from beneath the jeep, spring loaded collar inside the shift tower gets depressed turned 1/4 turn to disengage shifter.
Unbolt the crossmember and remove.
Place transmission jack under transmission/transfer case assembly, floor jack if your good and careful.
Support the engine under the oilpan, use block of wood against oilpan.
Remove front and rear driveshafts, you can reuse the straps and bolts.
Disconnect speedo cable from tailshaft of transfer case.
Disconnect Crank Position Sensor and clutch slave from bellhousing.
Disconnect reverse light harness from transmission.
Disconnect 4-prong vacuum harness from top of transfer case.
Unbolt bellhousing and remove transmission/transfer case assembly.
Let me know if I skipped something, I'll edit it to be complete as possible. Good luck.
2.5L or 4.0L?
Snitty
New member
I work on Glenwood...
ok.. here we go... get the axles up on stands, so the axles can spin when you need them to...
Undo exhaust at manifold flange
Remove the shift boot and then take out the bolts holding on the shift tower, then tug up on the stifter to unplug the ball
unbolt all driveshaft straps and remove both driveshafts.. then unplug all electrical harnesses from the transmission, transfercase, O2sensor, and Crank Position Sensor... Undo all hydraulic lines to the clutch system... Remove starter... Undo Tcase linkages
put a jack under the Tcase to relieve weight from the skidplate... remove all skidplate bolts and drop it..
unbolt/cut exhaust from catback and remove middle exhaust from behind the manifold to somewhere behind the transmission.. this makes it much much easier to get in there with the large parts
support the transimssion with a jack or blocks... unbolt the transfercase.. pry it back and down... may be quite tough to do, but it will go
to reduce stress on the motor mounts, support the oilpan with a jack... use a block of wood to distribute the weight
Unbolt the bellhousing from the motor...inspect to make sure you got ALL bolts out from the bellhousing, some are tricky and like to hide... it is sometimes easier to get at the top ones through the engine bay... lower the jacks far enough so that the transmission has enough clearance to slide back about a foot...
This is usually a tough job... with the transmission's weight still supported, pry the bellhousing from the engine... once it is cracked all around, work the transmission backward... you may have to work it back and forth SLIGHTLY to get the slpines out from the clutch... once the transmission is removed, drop it and get it out of the way...
Go get something to drink, and possibly eat, you'll need it by now...
There she is... the clutch assembly
While you are at that point... you might as well replace your pilot bearing, it is up inside the end of the crankshaft, you might need a pilot puller to get it out... there are other ways... but i suggest the puller... check your rear main seal/bearing while you are there... check for oil leaks... put something in the pilot housing and see if the crank has any loose movement. lets hope not...
when installing the clutch... KEEP EVERYTHING CLEAN!!!!... it may be a good idea to wear clean latex gloves when handling the new one... MAKE SURE you use the alignment tool.. you will NOT be happy if you can't get the transmission back because in input shaft will not line back up... when bolting the pressure plate back on... hand tighten all of the bolts, then tighten them in the proper order. Pre-torque the bolt at the top, then pretorque the bolt at the bottom, then from there, go AROUND, not in a cross star pattern, pre-torquing all the bolts, then go back around and do a final torque...
the HARDEST part will be lining the transmission to get it back up to the motor... sometimes you get lucky and it just goes... but that is not common... it is best to have 2 guys. I laid under my transmission and pushed it up off my chest, and had another guy push it toward the motor and twist the output shaft to get the splines lined up... at no point should you allow the transmission to hang by the input shaft inside the clutch.. don't let go until it is fully seated and you have a few bolts in the motor to hold it up... then get a jack under the trannt...
go get yourself another drink... you deserve it
from here, just keep going in reverse order until its a jeep again
little advice... if you can get a transmission jack... get it... it helps when you are sliding that big mother around... and that stupid funny looking bolt that you'll come across... that's an inverse torx E-12 socket
anything i forgot? anything else you need? let me know
ok.. here we go... get the axles up on stands, so the axles can spin when you need them to...
Undo exhaust at manifold flange
Remove the shift boot and then take out the bolts holding on the shift tower, then tug up on the stifter to unplug the ball
unbolt all driveshaft straps and remove both driveshafts.. then unplug all electrical harnesses from the transmission, transfercase, O2sensor, and Crank Position Sensor... Undo all hydraulic lines to the clutch system... Remove starter... Undo Tcase linkages
put a jack under the Tcase to relieve weight from the skidplate... remove all skidplate bolts and drop it..
unbolt/cut exhaust from catback and remove middle exhaust from behind the manifold to somewhere behind the transmission.. this makes it much much easier to get in there with the large parts
support the transimssion with a jack or blocks... unbolt the transfercase.. pry it back and down... may be quite tough to do, but it will go
to reduce stress on the motor mounts, support the oilpan with a jack... use a block of wood to distribute the weight
Unbolt the bellhousing from the motor...inspect to make sure you got ALL bolts out from the bellhousing, some are tricky and like to hide... it is sometimes easier to get at the top ones through the engine bay... lower the jacks far enough so that the transmission has enough clearance to slide back about a foot...
This is usually a tough job... with the transmission's weight still supported, pry the bellhousing from the engine... once it is cracked all around, work the transmission backward... you may have to work it back and forth SLIGHTLY to get the slpines out from the clutch... once the transmission is removed, drop it and get it out of the way...
Go get something to drink, and possibly eat, you'll need it by now...
There she is... the clutch assembly
While you are at that point... you might as well replace your pilot bearing, it is up inside the end of the crankshaft, you might need a pilot puller to get it out... there are other ways... but i suggest the puller... check your rear main seal/bearing while you are there... check for oil leaks... put something in the pilot housing and see if the crank has any loose movement. lets hope not...
when installing the clutch... KEEP EVERYTHING CLEAN!!!!... it may be a good idea to wear clean latex gloves when handling the new one... MAKE SURE you use the alignment tool.. you will NOT be happy if you can't get the transmission back because in input shaft will not line back up... when bolting the pressure plate back on... hand tighten all of the bolts, then tighten them in the proper order. Pre-torque the bolt at the top, then pretorque the bolt at the bottom, then from there, go AROUND, not in a cross star pattern, pre-torquing all the bolts, then go back around and do a final torque...
the HARDEST part will be lining the transmission to get it back up to the motor... sometimes you get lucky and it just goes... but that is not common... it is best to have 2 guys. I laid under my transmission and pushed it up off my chest, and had another guy push it toward the motor and twist the output shaft to get the splines lined up... at no point should you allow the transmission to hang by the input shaft inside the clutch.. don't let go until it is fully seated and you have a few bolts in the motor to hold it up... then get a jack under the trannt...
go get yourself another drink... you deserve it
from here, just keep going in reverse order until its a jeep again
little advice... if you can get a transmission jack... get it... it helps when you are sliding that big mother around... and that stupid funny looking bolt that you'll come across... that's an inverse torx E-12 socket
anything i forgot? anything else you need? let me know
Tug-n-pull
New member
If you don't want to know how to do a jeep thing around here don't answer. There are some of the most jeep minded folks here that ever found there way on line. Good luck with the change,
Remember to go ahead and reface the flywheel and if you have an internal slave for the sake of preventitive maintenance replace it so you do not have to any time soon I did not and had to unbolt and pull it all over again. tug
Remember to go ahead and reface the flywheel and if you have an internal slave for the sake of preventitive maintenance replace it so you do not have to any time soon I did not and had to unbolt and pull it all over again. tug
Bounty__Hunter
Super Moderator
You can remove the shifter without removing the 4 shift tower bolts.
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