What will I need to buy for a SPOA

blazntn

New member
I am really planning on doing this. I have seen several kits out there, but they all offer different things. What will I need. I dont wheel it really hard if that will make any difference.

Drop pitman arm
Transfer case drop
spring perches

will i need nes brake lines, shock adapters, and something to move the track bar. Am I forgetting anything?
 
you wont need to out board the spring unless your going to run full width axle. i didnt have to outboad my 65 inch 3/4 ton dana 44. but it depends on the axle i guess.

longer brake line are a must :D

you might need a high steer set-up as well.( springs get in the way)
 

1994 Ford F150

If going with a cv shaft, you do not need to drop the t case.
 
what do yall mean? outboard the springs? I am running stock axles for awhile, until i can afford to upgrade. Do you have to have new brake lines or will the old ones work. I am trying to save as much money on the smaller stuff now and upgrade when I get more serious.
 
You can relocate the stock YJ brake lines further down on the outside of the frame. Unbolt the line just before the rubber hose and be careful rebending the line to give yourself slack to work with. Run the hardline most of the way down the outside of the frame and reattach it.

That's a lot of lift for a transfer case drop, I wouldn't consider that much unless you planned on installing a SYE and double-cardan driveshaft.
 

if you have a 4 cylinder... you can get away with a 1.5-2 inch Tcase drop... if you have a 6 cyl.. NO WAY
 
what do you have to do with the steering? is a drop pitman arm all you need? I am really wanting to try to do it myself and then upgrade as I go. I went to the local 4wheel shop and they said $2000 for them to do it!! That seems crazy to me!
 
you CAN get away with a drop pitman arm... the best way is to go with a crossover high-steer setup
 

Try the drop pitman arm. If that isn't enough, the draglink may need a slight bend to clear the passenger side leaf pack.
 
blazntn said:
Do you have to have new brake lines or will the old ones work. I am trying to save as much money on the smaller stuff now and upgrade when I get more serious.

You can't get more serious then brakes. Would you want a rubber line hanging down, catching on rocks and stuff, or Stainless Steel lines ?

Tools , A welder and a Angle Tool thing to reset the pinnion angle.
Coffee, Reeses, Mt. Dew, Asprin (not in that order )
:)
 
stainless has a nylon inner... and the steel braid CAN flex out... the rubber line is actually considerably stronger than the stainless steel line... though, when we get to talking about vulnerability to snags and such... then the stainless is by far better
 

Your front track bar has to remain parallel with the drag link (if you are going to keep it that is) to avoid bump steer... and I recommend the drop down bracket that mounts to the frame side of the trac bar, the axle side bracket is junk (RE) I'm replacing mine now cause it had waaay too much play in it.
 
You can't get more serious then brakes. Would you want a rubber line hanging down, catching on rocks and stuff, or Stainless Steel lines ?
I personally don't like the stainless ones. They are nylon PVC hoses with a Stainless braided cover. The crimp on the fitting is where I have a problem. I have seen more than one crimp get snatched apart. I used a stainless braided upper and then added a rubber lower to my front brakes. They are plenty long. I bought some carb springs and tied one end to the brake line and the other to the upper shock bolt. This keeps them out of the way while still allowing them to travel with the axle. Either style is fine just make sure they are long enough and don't get caught in the tire or on sticks and limbs and you will be fine.

As for doing the spring over, I have never seen one of the bolt on kits in person. I ride hard so the bolt on kit would be questionable for my riding style. Besides, if you can do a little welding or know someone that can then you will be ok.
 
Maybe a few of us should do a column on properly setting up a spring over. I have more experience on the CJ side, so I would need some help out of the YJ guys.
I think you can get away with not using a transfer case drop if you do the slip yoke eliminator and a CV shaft in the rear.
Other than that, pick a starting point, front or rear. We'll say rear to begin with.
Support the vehicle first of all. Remove all your u-bolts, shocks, rear trac bar and drive shaft. Take loose the shackle end of the springs and pull the axle out. Measure the distance between the perches or measure the distance from the perch to the brake backing plate, whatever point of reference you want. Just make sure you know where they will be positioned when you put the new ones on top. Now bolt the springs back into the shackles. Find a c-clamp and clamp it on the spring near the centering pin. Remove the center pin and turn it over when you put it back in. This is what keeps the spring centered in the perch. Cut the old perches off and gring the old welds down smooth. Roll the axle back under there and place the new perches on top of the axle. You can go back and weld them later. Put all of your u-bolts and spring plates back on loosely. Point the pinion yoke directly at transfer case yoke. Tighten the u-bolts down snug but not real tight.
Lower the Jeep down onto the springs and remove the jackstands. You will notice that the springs are probably flatter than they were before. This is normal and they will get flatter over time. Now look and see where the pinion is pointed. It has probably move upward since you let the vehicle down. Now you want to set the pinion angle. You can so this with a cheap angle gauge from harbor freight, but since it will settle anyway, I would eyeball it. I would point the pinion directly at the transfer case yoke again then lower it 5 degrees from there. It is supposed to be 3 degrees or so, but like I said, your springs will settle over time and the 5 degrees will turn in to 3 degrees or so. Check your perches against the measurements you took earlier and tighten the u-bolts. You will have to make a new bracket for the track bar to make it taller. This is where the YJ guys should chime in, but I would say measure the diameter of your axle tube and thickness of the spring pack and that should be the additional height you need for your track bar bracket.
You will have to do some measuring for the new driveshaft and shocks, then get an extended brake line for the rear.
Don't forget to go back and weld the perches once the front is done and you have triple checked your perch spacing and pinion angle.
Except for the finite details, that covers the rear. I'll let one of you YJ guys cover the front. I can't recall if the perch is incorporated in the casting on the front differential or not. If so this will require some grinding to mount the front perches on the top.
 

dude that was great. thanks for the step by step. I am planning on putting in a SYE and CV shaft later on when the budget permits. do i set up the pinion angle the same or is it different?
 
Back
Top