what if I flip the axles

72chokers

New member
What if you flip the axles to were you can just put blocks to lift instead of having to buy leaf springs to lift will it make it walk,when drove down the road
 

I think you are referring to a spring over conversion, where they cut off the spring perch from under the axle and reweld it on top of the axle, which gives you about 5" of lift. This can be a good set up if done right, the key word here is "done right". If you are not a perfessional welder, have extensive experience with steering geomotry, I would not advise you atempt it. The cost of having someone do it right for you will probably cost more than a regular lift. I had a cj with a spring over, it was on it when I got it and not done correctly, it wondered all over the road and I did not own it long. I would highly recommend saving for a regular lift kit.
 
I'd go with 69jeepcj's recommendation. I've never seen a SOA conversion that was as solid (stable) as a well built/install lift kit. I'm certain it can be done, but it takes skill.
 
Many of the racers, and jeep professionals like from JP magazine have started to change their stance on SOA's. Axle wrap and bump steer are the two main reasons, but other flex issues have popped up as well. I would seach JP's knowledge base for those articles and read them before you make your decision.
 

unless your planning on running a 40" tire or more, SOA is not needed... asuuming your not shy with a sawzall and know what springs to use.

I recently built a CJ5 for a friend, we used 4" BDS front FSJ springs front and rear, for the rear we swapped around the leafs in the pack with some regular 4" lift rear CJ springs (basically change the rate). This converts the front to a 2.5" spring, about 6" inches of lift over stock, about 5" of total stretch F&R, fit a 38" TSL with only very minor trimming to the rear of the rear wheel well.

I'll look for pics but the price of the springs along was way less than a "kit" still had to buy shocks, in this case, we ran off the shelf cheap autozone shocks, homemade brake line extensions to the tune of $10, home made driveshafts and a modified dodge pitman arm.

long story bit longer, stay spring under if you can, way less hassel and trouble.
 
IM pro SOA. i have way more flex than buddies running spring under with lift springs. Would have to agree it takes alot of fine tunning to eliminate bumpsteer and axle movement. I would have to say that a SOA Properly set up is a huge improvement offroad and I belive if your considering SOA most of your driving should be off the pavment. Would also agree that SOA Does tend to be more expensive than a bolt on leaf under kit.
 
Im for s.o.a. also. Although the jeep I have now is s.u.a. I done a s.o.a. on my first cj, not really hard to do either. Get some front and rear spring pads, weld the fronts exactly above the stock ones, check by measuring pad to pad in front of the axle and behind. These must be exact in order to keep the same caster angle. For the rear you need to raise the pinion some and tack the pad in place. After you get everything tightened back down go for a ride, take it easy though, remember the rear pads are just tacked in place. If theres no viration then weld the rear pads up, if vibration is preasent then raise or lower the pinion till its right then weld it up. Weld some shock tabs on the axle housing and get a dropped pitman and enjoy! Oh yeah youll probably need to get both driveshafts lengthened also!
 

I am in the process of doing a SOA lift while doing some other mods. I'm replacing the rear crossmember and the rear SOA is kinda simple taking drive line angle, shocks and brake lines into consideration. On the front I am swapping the spring hangers front to back and moving the shackles behind the axle along with after market more sturdy 1 piece shackles. Should gain more stability and less steering movement. Also installing a steering gear support rod and a drop pitman arm. All these mods to the steer axle make a big change in how the steering feels. I am hoping for a highly improved ride. Has anyone done this to a CJ before?
 
On the front I am swapping the spring hangers front to back and moving the shackles behind the axle along with after market more sturdy 1 piece shackles. Has anyone done this to a CJ before?
The shackle reversal (SRS) is a pretty common modification. Be sure the spring is at the same angle front to rear as it was before so you don't affect your caster. I see to many SRS setups where they simply slap a shackle hanger below the frame and call it done. This is wrong in most cases, the proper way is to mount the shackle through the frame. This requires boxing and sleeving the frame.

Here's an example of how not to do it. Notice how the rear spring eye is much lower than the front spring eye. The shackle will hang on everything when offroad.
http://image.jpmagazine.com/f/techa...ions_forward_reversed+front_axle_rearward.jpg

This is the correct way to do it:
http://erock.rockfrogs.org/Picture/Front_Stretch/pass_side_w_axle.jpg

And now for some real bootyfab:
http://www.4x4wire.com/jeep/reviews/ftssr01/Dcp02035.jpg
 
Thanks for responding so quick. I took a second look at the original se up on the steer axle. I don't really want to cut into my frame but you are correct. To get the spring eyes as close to the same measurement as possible you would need to weld in a bushing sleeve in the frame and reinforce it other wise you would have to bring the hanger on the front way down which in turn gives you a giant lift.

Im not afraid of work and actually enjoy it...Wait.... What?
Yeah I enjoy working on it so I guess my question is with a SOA lift will you have more sway or motion from the steer axle shackles in the front? Take into consideration I will be installing the heavy duty 1 piece shackles with a welded section in the middle to help control a little. Also will fab a link for the original sway bar.
 

I almost jumped in way to far. After measuring the new shackles it will give me around 3" alone so if In did a SOA it would be way more lift than In wanted. If I'm not mistaken early in the thread it said you get around 4" from soa.

ForumRunner_20130417_233108.png



ForumRunner_20130417_233143.png
 
Shackles lift half the difference in height from the original shackles, as they only lift one end of the spring. A small shackle lift isn't bad but those are in the booty-fab range. Ridiculously long shackles decrease approach angle (they hit everything), alter the pinion angle, and decrease caster (increasing wander).
 
I almost jumped in way to far. After measuring the new shackles it will give me around 3" alone so if In did a SOA it would be way more lift than In wanted. If I'm not mistaken early in the thread it said you get around 4" from soa.
With SOA you gain 4 to 4.5" The measurement pics show hole to hole to be about 6.5" Your factory shackles will be 4" hole to hole, so you will get around 1.25" of lift from those shackles.
 
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