TJ Lift Question And Opinions - Please Help!

1072860

Hey guys,

Well, I am about ready to go with a lift for my TJ. I want to run 33's, so I am looking at a 4" lift kit. Now, my problem is lack of money. I have about $2,000 to play with. I'm going to guess around $1,000 for the 33's (BFG A/T's) and wheels. I've been looking around for a good kit to fit those tires. I use my TJ as a daily driver, but it does see the trails time to time (nothing heavy...). With $1,000 (or less), what lift kit would YOU recommend I install?

You guys rock! Always been very helpful in my questions.

-Rob[addsig]
 

1072865

you will probably need to figure regearing your axle into the money equation[addsig]
 
1072872

I have a kit with sway bar disco's with everything included to install it for under $600 with your discount. Ask PASmokeater about his lift kit or search changing of the badges. All you will need to do is install the kit. As for re-gearing it a lot of people do that as stage 2, get it up and get the rubber under it then bring back the power.

[addsig]
 

1072993

2 other CHEAP options.
opinions vary.

1. Budget Boost A

2" coil spacer + 2" Body Lift = $170 4wheeldriveparts.com

no need to change brake lines, pitman, etc.

2. Budget Boost B

New Coil from Rubicon Front... $150
put old front coils in the Rear.....
Lift body 1" $70

If truly on a budget these are options.
EVERY LIFT, no matter the cost has it's
own pro's and con's.

Just .02, not an endorsement for either.[addsig]
 
1073002

This is a excerpt from a past post talking about lifting a YJ.
This info is also true (Except for the sizes) when doing the coils on a TJ.

Most people either by the cheap lift and end up with sagging problems or lift 1 1/2 then 2 1/2 then 3 1/2 and end up spending way more in the long run with way to much extra work. Save your money and do it right the first time.

Note: A Budget boost is only a budget if you never go to the next level.
8-) :-D :evil: :lol: :roll: [addsig]
 
1073003

anyway you decide to do it just make sure of a few things:

You are happy with it .....
Do it right the first time it saves alot of money and headaches...
It's a jeep--

Just Enjoy Every Project :-O [addsig]
 

1073012

Nice TJ Lift on a budget:

Rubicon Express Standard Kit 3.5" $490.00
Rancho 5000 shocks $40.00 each=$160.00
BFG 33x12.5x15 Mud Terrains Tirerack.com $150.00 each= $600.00
Rockcrawler wheels $45.00 each=$180.00 (These are wider stock wheels)

$1430.00 + Tax on this TJ

Note this TJ's rock crawling ability is only limited by the pilot in comands guts.

1st pic. Parts listed above works fine without Slip Yoke Eliminator.
image-missing.png


2nd pic. Parked next to my 5" lift, 33" Tire YJ
image-missing.png


3rd pic. Ramped with sway bar disconnected and it doesn't rub.
It just tucks.
image-missing.png

[addsig]
 
1073020

Note:
The Jeep pictured above is a 1998 Wrangler TJ
4.0I-6 Automatic
Dana30 front/Dana44 rear limited slip
3.73 gears

It is a daily driver, weekend rock crawler.
Freeway performance, handling and ride quality are fine.
Off-road it rocks (No pun intended)
After the installation of the 33" inch tires there was some
loss of pick up, but not enough to require the gear change.

Future plans might be to regear to 4.10's with the addition of lockers,
but the loss of freeway crusing is a concern.

Questions.
Does this Jeep drive acceptably on the street? Yes
Is it safe to let others drive? Yes
Would we freeway drive this long distances? Yes
Will it go everywhere we want off-road? Yes
If we spent way more money on a better lift will it still go everywhere we want? Yes, but we wont have as much money.
If we had extra money to upgrade the lift, would we do it? No, The money would be spent on other upgrades. Quick disconnects, etc.
Is there anything we would change if we did it again? Yes, Rancho 9000 shocks and rear shock mount relocators.
[addsig]
 

1073087

guess it's time for my .02. The spacer lift with shocks is not that far in price from a real lift kit with disconnects and shocks. You can get a 3-4" kit with everything including the disconnects and shocks for under $600 delivered to your door. You can run 33's without any problem and is very streetable. The shocks are a 10 stage multi valve hydro shock (one of the best on the market). I'm telling you that nothing will compare. Putting the front coil on the rear is a Bad Idea the bottom of the spring will not seat correctly and this can be dangerous. I know it has been done many times and many people have had success with it but it is not safe. doing things on a budget is onething but putting yourself and others on the road is another.

[addsig]
 
1073104

Bounty Hunter.
Thanks for pointing that out.

For those of you who only read and pick out parts of the posts. Further down the page there is a description of that Jeep and it says, "Is there anything we would change if we did it again? Yes, Rancho 9000 shocks and rear shock mount relocators".

Having rode in and actually driven that TJ, I would say it's unfair (Based on the ride of that Jeep) to blast the Rancho 5000 and completely disregard their value. His install was designed with cost in mind, and the ride, for the money was very acceptable, the price was reasonable, (If I remember the sale was buy three and get one free) and the shocks have a resale value when he had the money to upgrade.
Weather those were the Rancho 5000, the Doestech Tech 3000 or the Rusty’s they would have been changed, if the money were there.

One thing I have found is that a lot of the ride qualities, rated on Jeeps out there have been disguised by other needs or upgrades. For example on a CJ/YJ: Stiffer springs, old, bad, over tightened or ungreased bushings, even missing sway bars, You get the idea, can cause a unacceptable ride.

Bounty, I respect the amount of posts you have, you are at least reading or aware of information on this site, but lets not scare newbies and our younger Jeepers into thinking there’s one part and one part only. We all have our favorites.

In conversations with people that know, or at least believe that the Rancho 5000 at about $40.00 each are a cellular gas shock that have a semi firm ride design, the Doestch Tech 3000 at about $31.00 each are a oil based/cell shock with a softer ride design, and the Rustys at about $30.00 each are a shock they have built which are probably good too. Now what does this mean? The firmer ride is to stiff, but feels the road better or the softer shocks ride better, but have more potential to bottom out when loaded for those off-road camping trips. The best salesmen will convince you there’s are the best, the best advice is that you make the choice. Remember this is a Jeep, nothing rides great.

The point is some people like Ford, some like Chevy, some like Chrysler.
The argument of who’s best will go on forever.

8-) :evil: :-D :lol: :roll: :-) [addsig]
 

1073106

Funny thing is that while I'm writing about the ride quality of a Jeep, My guys pulled up in the harshest riding, loud, overly geared, massive he said-she said Cj, yelling.... Let’s rock dude!

Isn't that what it's really about?
Everybody Jeeps together no matter what we’ve got. :-D [addsig]
 
1073114

Just adding my $.02, and you're right, everybody likes something a little different. I was just speaking from my experiences. I caught it further down where shocks would be done differently, but if missed, the first post sounds like it's a recommendation for those shocks. I haven't met may who've like them.

I don't know why you respect the amount of posts I have :roll: it doesn't mean anything except I may have been around this site longer or have more free time. Surely no guage of knowledge or trustworthiness :-D Check THIS out if you haven't already.[addsig]
 

1073135

The front springs are not on a TJ are larger at the bottom than the springs, this will allow for movement of the spring on the rear spring pad. The front spring coil is also not setup to be flat on the bottom, it is meant to go into an indent in the front purch. The rear spring coil is designed to be flat on the bottom and tight to the center post on the bottom pad, thus not moving. Movement of the spring on the pad while the truck is moving down the road can cause the rear to shift. Call me crazy or maybe just anal but I would not try it on a truck my kids were going to ride in.

[addsig]
 
1073139

I know nothing,, but I did research this
option...
May not mean anything, but When I
went to Rubicon to Buy new Taller
Front Springs, I noticed that they listed
different PART #s for front and rear...
I did assume at that point that they
were probally Not interchangeable.

Went with the BB and Body.
I'll get NEW front and rear springs
When I do the 4" Kit this winter.

Only .02 :-Dl[addsig]
 
1073252

Hey Morgster! Mighty fine lookiin' Jeep! My TJ is virually a clone
of yours, without the lift. ( Ya gotta love that gunmetal blue). I love
the grey rockcrawalers with the black inserts. When I lift mine ,I'd
like to get those wheels but I thought rockcrawlers only came in white and
black. Did you paint yours/ If so what exact color did you paint them?


edited by: KAYBONE, Jun 26, 2003 - 08:47 AM[addsig]
 

1073315

KAYBONE:
I keep buying Black (and I swear I'll never do it again, but I do) :lol:
This clean TJ belongs to my partner and the gunmetal blue kinda grows on you after a while.
He wanted a 15 inch steel wheel (This was several years ago) and liked the look of the factory wagon wheel design, even down to the stock YJ mini black hubcaps, so he custom built his own. The centers were removed from Jeep YJ 15x7 stock wheels, welded into wider "Chevy Rally outer wheel pieces" and then balanced. This gave him the look and durability he wanted along with the backspacing 3 3/4 and width 15x8 he needed. When finished they were painted with a light gray rustoleum until trail damage testing was done. The intent to powder coat them was there, but the paint was so durable (And was cheep and easy to touch up) that he never did. [addsig]
 
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