Those damn Torx Bolts

ZBTstang

New member
I bought new mirrors for my TJ. Got myself a set of the torx head wrenchs. Cant seem to get the factory bolts off to take the original mirror off. I just cannot make them budge. Is there a trick to this, im guessing they were put in by machine in the factory. Any help would be great.
 

Any Ideas???

put a torch on them for a few minutes and heat them up... that should break them loose
 
MAKE SURE you have a good hardened torx bit... a lot of trouble from those things come from people trying to use crappy bits... then go for some heat, and some PB blaster
 
When brother (for the most part) was installing the (Fred) Garvin industries roof rack on my jeep, the torx protested. I took it to the dealership, pulled around to the jeep garage bay and asked the ASE certified mechanics to crack the code. They stated that they would not be responsible for any damage. Go nuts I say and they did it without error. Told em I would get them a six pack for their assistance, drove to the store and got em a twelve pack. They said I was the first person ever to come back with brew amidst a promise.
 

Remember to throw them stinking trox away and get some real bolts to replace them with. No need to repete this mistake in judgement again on down the road. tug
 
If you don't have a torch, try an impact gun. Air powered would be best, but I got mine off with an electric one.
 

I coudn't get my bumper bolts off, had the same issue. Replaced them with regular bolt heads, but they are rusting already and I did that just last weekend!
 
Course with the inches and inches of rain we get every day, I'm surprised the whole damn jeep isn't rusted. The back seat brackets are rusting too.
 

I feel your pain. I bought a set of Craftsman screw outs just to get the torix and flat head screws (why someone replaced the original bolts with flat head screws I will never understand.) out of my CJ-7's windshield hinges. The hinges rusted so bad they won't move and the flat head screws won't budge either. Strangely, I did get all but one of the torix bolt loose.

Anyway, the whole replace the windshield hinges, cowl seal and other odds and ends is another misadventure for later reporting.

Some time agon, when I replaced the torix bolts on my CJ-5. I ended up using stainless steel phillips screws from Lowe's. They really were not all that expensive. So you might want to give that a try.

Good luck!
~Mel
 
2.5l grime all over

My set of Torx bits are 3/8 which happened to be the same as my el-cheapo impact driver ( the kind that you use a hammer on) but worked very well. You can pick one up at any parts store for a 10 spot :D
 
torx bolts suck, suck, suck...

if I was too subtle about it, let me repeat it - they suck hard...

As I took each torx bolt off my jeep, I damned it to hell as I threw it across the yard. Cheap torx wrenches suck too - they snap off if you blow on them hard or use harsh language. Break down and get Craftsmen or something similar, and impact wrenches help out as well.

I would almost bet a whole 15 cents, that there is rust in the thread holes -hit them with wd40 and run them in and out, in and out a few times - I know, it makes me excited too. Then, clean it out with carburater cleaner and then a thin coat of silicon on the threads helps out sometimes

In any case, just like everyone else has said, replace it with hex bolts, they might stick out some, but they look more manly...
 

might stick out some, but they look more manly...

right on... think about it... its just more masculine.. a torx has a female head, a hex has a male head
 
a torch won't weld aluminum to painted steel... it may melt them, and in time, could mend them kinda... but if you simply heat them to loosen the grab, it helps a lot
 

torched mine and then sprayed some WD-40 on em and they unscrewed like a dream
 
The problem here is its on the windshield frame and torching them is a very bad idea. A good quality harden torx driver that fit a 3/8 or 1/2 socket driver and a impact wrench with the dead blow type or an electric or air driven impact driver will remove the torx head screw. A bottle of either nickle or silver thread lube will garrentee removal the next time. These screws are put in with 50+ pounds of torque then painted over.
As to why they use them...all I could get as an answer is that the torx head provides more contact surface then a allen head counter sink cap screw.
 
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