Spool VS Locker

onyxdragon

New member
RE: Dress you dog?

I'm just starting to build up my 81CJ 7 (About Time !!) and was wondering if I could get any input on what I should lock my front D30 with . I see most use lockers, but my brother-in-law suggested maybe going with a spool ? I'd like to hear the pros/cons of both locker and spool from guys that run the gear in their rigs and not some pansy behind the parts counter that doesn't even own a 4x4 !! Plz, any comments will be appriciated Thanks ! **Wheelin the Rocky Mountains**
 

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RE: Reverse Pop!!!!

if you have locking hubs go w/the spool .. more bulletproof - you can always get out and unlock 1 hub for tight turns on trails if need be -i had a friend back in FL that ran a locker and then went to a spool - liked it better but complained once in a while about having to get out - where as the locker would give up a little on turns... personal preference i guess - but ONLY w/locking hubs (which you should have..) - i'm going to go w/a "lincoln locker" in my front (with the split axle it'll work) just my $.02
 
What size tires are you running and what do you use the Jeep for (dedicated for offroad use, daily driver, etc)? 6 cyl? V8?

Do you have manual hubs? If not you'll want to install them or consider a limited slip instead.

These can all be factors on what works best for you.
 
locker up front and a spool out back. a spool up front is just a horrible thing when trying to turn. and plus its more stress than a locker.
 

onyxdragon said:
some pansy behind the parts counter that doesn't even own a 4x4

:lol: :lol: :lol:

Dude, you're gonna fit right in here!!!

:lol: :lol: :lol:
 
RE: Audio question...

A locker is locked when you put on the throttle, acting like a spool. A spool makes turning hard even if you don't gas it, but is stronger. No matter what, I always recommend limited slips or selectable lockers for the front so that the vehicle is able to make tight turns w/o much hassle. Also, any limited slip, spool, or full-time locker can be a bit scary for street-driving in the snow.
 

a spool connects that shafts together permanently, its like making your front two shafts into one big shaft (simply put) a locker replaces either the spider gears (loc-rite, aussie etc) or the whole carrier (detroit, arb, eaton) and locks you axles together when your on the gas and lets them float when your not. the way an aussie works for example is by using springs and the center pin of the differntial. when its not under throttle the two halfs float, not loose but not bound up so you can turn and it ratchets. when you hit the gas, part of the locker is forced against the center pin, spreading it upen slightly and positivly engaging the ratching teeth so they dont ratchet.

for starters here is an open dif, it transfers power to the wheel with least traction by using the other as a fixed point for the rest of the differential to rotate around. the obvious trail disadvantages are plainly apparent but its action is why it is so good for driving on the road, it doesnt cause uneven wear or weird handling characteristics.
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here is a limited slip, you can see that the springs between the spider gears help bias only one tire from spinning, while not fully locking they can be of aid in many situations. they are practically unnoticeable on the road because they do have a point of direct differntation, that is to say at some force the springs are over come and it acts like an open dif, but all in all they are a good selection for moderate trail use. some use clutch packs in the gear sets to do the same things as springs and they usually require a special oil or additive to function correctly
differentiallimitedslip-5.jpg

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this is a aussie/loc-rite/ez locker/ style locker, you can see the ratching teeth on the two out halfs, and the oval shaped hole for the center pin, the reason for the oval shaped hole is because when you put it under power, the locker rotates slightly and forces the two halfs tight against the outer side gears.
ezlocker-5.jpg



here is the inner workings of a detroit locker (without the case surround it in this picture)
you can see that it works similar to the loc-rite in that it uses two outer teeth to ratcher but since this is in its own case, detroit uses a stronger design, one big center piece and two outer sides that ratchet around it.
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here is an air locker, when not actuated it works like an open differential, but when compressed air is sent to the unit, it locks as you can see in the diagram. these are the end all for the locker solution and driving on the road or making sharp corners on the trail, you just hit a switch and unlock it and you get your turning radius back. teraflex also has a new one out, its called the t-locker and is actually supposed to be beefier than the ARB unit. watch for a few seconds, it is actually animated so you can see how it works precisly
betaLocker-5.gif


here is an electric locker, it uses a special actuator to do something similar to the arb, but uses an external actuator that is integrated into the dif cover to push a shift fork on the inside of the dif (both of these are of the electrac)
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this is a cable actuated locker, an ox. they have been used with various success, some people dont like the flex that the cable gives when locking it in, and others have actually changed the cable system over to an air actuator to make it an air locker. this works just the same as the electric style and arb style locker.
ox_lockerandcable_c-5.jpg



here is a spool for a dana 60, the ring gear just bolts on the flange and the axle shafts slide into the two ends, simple and effective but you can see how it adds stress to the drivetrain. theyre great in rear axles because theyre predictable offroad and wont ever unlock at the "wrong moment" but not very practical for everyday driving.
ce5011c-5.jpg


here is a mini spool, same concept as a spool but it just replaces the spider gears (somewhat like a lunch box locker), these are cheap and effective but still act like a spool.
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hope that helps you!
-sam
 
Re: RE: Laptop Stolen

Leave it open or run a LS if you aren't willing to upgrade the shafts, joints, and locking hubs. Swap in a heavier axle assembly if you plan on having a healthy engine, good gearing, or big tires and you need a front locker.

Check out the geared limited slip units from Detroit if you can stand not being locked up front. They're supposed to work much better and won't wear out like the friction surfaces inside of a conventional LS unit will.
 
Corrupt, I must compliment you for the thoroughness of your post. Of the lockers you used as examples, however, I must criticize the Detroit Electrac. I have heard horrible things about it; the Eaton E-locker is a much better design as it uses an electromagnet, is cheaper, and is far more reliable. Several places do not even bother to carry the electrac. However, finding an E-locker can be a bit of a challenge as well as Eaton is filling some huge orders for General Motors and Hummer right now. Onyxdragon, I noticed that you live in Canada. I cannot emphasize this enough: having anything other than an open differential (or selectable locker) while driving on the street in snow and unavoidably ice is dangerous, no matter how skilled the driver is. I admit it can be fun, but not on narrow roads or when other cars are near by.
 

i agree, i dont like the electrac either but i couldnt find any good pics of the e locker

i edited the post and put a few more things in too
 
Wow thanks for all the info everyone !! to answer Twistedcopper's questions here goes :
I'm driving an 81 CJ7 with an 5.9litre V-8(the old AMC360). Dana30 up front with manual locking hubs , AMC20 rear with the trac-lok limited slip. She's got a 4"lift with 33"x12.5 Hankooks. T-176 transmission, dana300 t-case. Not my daily driver although I have to traverse pavement to hit the mountain trails, and it no longer sees any winter driving. Embarassing info ; it still has the pitifully high, stock 2.72:1 gears in the diffs....arrrggggg !! .....*hangs head in shame* but 4.56 gears are going in , first thing in spring, which is why I wanted the info on lockers vs spool. I also wouldn't mind doing a one piece axleshaft upgrade for the AMC20 ....or even transplanting some Dana44's , but source parts are extremely hard to find up here.
 
RE: Replacement Frame

Sometimes you just absolutely have to be locked in front, but you can still get pretty far up most trails with just a locked rear. The gear change and a rear locker would be a night and day difference compared to what you already have. I say do the gears, one piece shafts, and a rear locker. If you still need to lock the front at that point, you could easily toss in a lunchbox locker.
 

x2, and if you want, you can do two lunchbox lockers for the price of a full detroit locker. or just a lunchbox locker in the rear. the aussie lockers seem to be getting a lot better feedback than the loc-rites have been. i love my aussie up front, its great but i have a loc-rite in the back and i could ask for a little more. anymore, what junkpile suggested is a good start and like he said, its a night and day difference, but when you put in that front locker after running an open dif up front you wont know how you ever lived without one
 
V8, 33's, planning on 4:88 gears... sounds like a locker in a stock D30 with that setup is a formula for breakage.

I'd get a LS for the front like a Detroit Truetrac unless you want to throw a bigger axle under there. I suppose a spool would be good if you don't have to worry about winter driving and have the manual hubs - it would be better than a locker because the sudden lockup with 4:88's, the torque of a 360, and 33's would be pretty hard on the D30.
 

RE: Weber choke

currupt4130 said:
x2, and if you want, you can do two lunchbox lockers for the price of a full detroit locker. or just a lunchbox locker in the rear.
Uh, Lunchbox Locker=Spool?
 
I too recommend either a limited slip or leaving the differential open when running larger than stock tires, a v8, and a stock lightweight axle.

I run Lincoln Lockers front and rear in stock D30 and D35 axles, been that way for 2+ years now with no problems running 33" swampers. But then again I've got the monster 2.5L engine so it's all relative ;)
 

Oct. 1st and 2nd, National Offroad Shop Team Challenge, IL

hmmm ive been running my d30 locked for a year and ive already spit out 3+ u joints per side. geuss its the dagone gear reduction... i had two of them let go at the exact same time once! that was interesting :lol:
 
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