Questions about lift kits for my new jeep TJ.

[ktmrider63]

Questions about my 1998 jeep TJ

I just bought a 1998 TJ and I was wondering what would be the best suspension setup for 35 inch tires? I've been looking at a 4-7 inch lift from rubicon express, rancho, rockkrawler, skyjacker and fabtech and they all seem to be about the same. Are there any better companies that offer lift kits and are there pros and cons to each company?

I would be geared more towards trails and mud, instead of rocks.


Any other information regarding shocks, transfer cases, differentials or any type of upgrade would be much appreciated


This is what I want my jeep to look like. NOTE: It's not mine!

 

[Utah_jeepster]

First off welcome to the "Z"...
As to where you want to go and what you have is a lot of wrenching, cutting and welding.

As to lift kits everyone has there favorite, but after 4 inches of lift I recommend one that is a long arm type with beefy joints, heim or Johnny joints. Personally I run a Tera-Flex lift and so far after 8 years have had no complaints. But then again that is my personal opinion. On my web page you can see several of my friends and there jeeps, we have a fab-tec lifted 2000 white TJ, a RockCralwer1997 blue TJ and green ZJ and a Rubicon express 95 white XJ. But all of them have gone to a long arm like mine, they say the ride is so much smoother.

Since no manufacture has a 'all in one' lift kit, your going to be buying pieces from several companies.
Most complete lift kits will provide the hardware just to lift your jeep(new springs, upper and lower radius arms, sway bar links, drop pit man arm, and shocks) you will still need to buy things like a Slip yoke eliminator kit for your transfer case, new drive lines, brake line extensions.

The best is to start looking at each MFG's web page and list what each kit your looking at, comes with, and compare it to the others.
Going around and 'looking' at the different kits at your local 4x4 shops should give you a pretty good idea what each kit has to offer and what they feel like looking at the kit. Your parts man should be able to tell you the differences and what extras you will need as well per kit.

As for what else you jeep might need like running 35 inch tires in gumbo mud...it depends on what your jeep came with for axles, what mods the previous owner has done.
Do you have a 2.5L (4 cyl) or the 4.0 (6cyl)?
Do you have an automatic transmission or a clutch?

Also send us some picks of your new ride and some specs.
Finding a local jeep club is also another good source of different lifts and people to jeep with. One you can see the lifts they are running and ride in the jeep feeling how it handles.
Then get out there and play...your new jeep came pretty well equipped to handle some trails right off the show room floor.

 

[Bounty__Hunter]

I agree, stick with a 4" kit if you're on a budget and want to stick with a short-arm setup, but anything over 4" is best done with a longarm conversion. This means cutting the lower control arm mounts from the frame, a point of no return that many jeep owners aren't comfortable with.

A 4" lift would work well in conjunction with a 1" body lift. I would also factor in costs such as:
SYE (Slipyoke Eliminator)
CV rear driveshaft
Adjustable upper control arms (rear)
1" body lift

I used to live in Washington, near Tacoma. Where you at?

 

[ktmrider63]

Right now its a 2.5L 4 cyl with a manual. But the first thing I might do to it is put either a straight 6 or v8 in it. I'll put an auto in it if i do put the v8 in.

But the jeep is pretty much bone stock, except for some oversized tires from the factory, which aren't really oversized. It does have the lower gear ratio for the differential since it's a 4 cyl. It was just a daily driver, and I was looking for something that is in great condition (which it is) to turn into my own creation. I've been looking around at different jeeps to find one that I like with all the specs listed, but the picture above doesn't have any specs.

I live in maple valley right now

Here's the monster...8)

 

[ktmrider63]

And also, if I could get some more information about:

-305 ci v8 conversion kits?
-Emissions regarding the 305
-Auto Transmissions
-Rear and front lockers (Electronic, air, or turn hub?)
-Fuel cell (Location or skid plates)
-Axles suited for 35 inch tires (Dana 44's or rockwells?)


Anything about putting a v8 in would be great.

 

[Bounty__Hunter]

I live in maple valley right now

You're not too far from where I was at (Ft. Lewis). Sure do miss that area.

Check your local emissions laws for what drivetrain swap is legal, often you're okay if you stick with the same model year drivetrain or newer and have all emissions components in place. Some areas are so strict that the drivetrain has to be from the same manufacturer as the vehicle.

If it's a v8 you want, don't waste time on a 305 and go with the more reliable, more powerful 350. Be sure to get the OEM transmission and transfer case with it so you save big money on having to buy adapters. The Vortec 4.3L is another good option.

 

[ktmrider63]

I looked at all the info at novak adapters and they seem to know their stuff. They had a pic of a 400 hp corvette engine in a TJ and I couldn't stop drooling lol.

I actually work in puyallup.

 

[Utah_jeepster]

And also, if I could get some more information about:

-305 ci v8 conversion kits?
-Emissions regarding the 305
-Auto Transmissions
-Rear and front lockers (Electronic, air, or turn hub?)
-Fuel cell (Location or skid plates)
-Axles suited for 35 inch tires (Dana 44's or rockwells?)


Anything about putting a v8 in would be great.

I will leave the motor part out since Bounty has covered that, but I will only say the costs and hassles of trying to convert a 2.5 to the 4.0 isn't worth it, it costs more to convert the 2.5 to 4.0 than it is to swap in a V8.

Any of the turbo 350 or 400's would work perfectly behind a V8 swap, also the 700R is a good choice if you want a 4 speed but with your jeeps 93.3 inch wheel length your looking at a super short slip yoke eliminator for the NP231 transfer case.

Lockers are a personal choice again, some like a fully locked rear end like a Detroit and a selectable in the front, electric, air, or cable its really up to you. Personally I went with air lockers front and rear because I drive my jeep on the road as a daily driver as well.

There are several MFG's of gas tank skid plates that bolt over your existing plate. I don't like having a fuel cell in an enclosed vehicle and if your not going to stretch your jeeps wheel base buying a skid is cheaper.

Axle size is another argument but minimum rear axle with a V8 and 35 inch tires is the Dana 44, but breakage is possible and going to a Dana 60 will bullet proof your rear, then a Dana 44 for the front since its 'part time' will suffice.
With going to a Dana 60 you could effectively get a 8 on 8 bolt pattern for both axles thus allowing you the chance to go to manual hubs, allowing you to put in full time lockers front and rear which is cheaper than selectable types.

Rockwells are over kill unless your going to leave them full width and run monster mudders, thus making your jeep a trailer queen.

 

[ktmrider63]

Ok cool! I am leaning towards half road/ half trail so a locker that can be controlled will be a must for me. There's a swap meet in a week so I can put all of this amazing knowledge learned to good use .

Thanks again