POLL: Synthetic oil conversion in older engine?

TwistedCU

New member
Curious to see what the majority thinks on this one. Keep in mind this would be on a vehicle in good shape with over 70K miles.
 

Twisted , You now I wouldn't switch. I love my Jeep. I might put an additive in my gearbox though?



Later,
JAckal :lol:
 
To each his own, but I am one that would rather switch and find the leaks so that I can fix them instead of letting the sludge cram it up and creat a larger problem in the future.

Fix it now I always say

If it Jams . . . Force it . . . If it breaks . . . It needed fixing anyway.
 
I'm beginning to think that they are not "found" leaks, but new ones caused by different effects on the gasket. If synthetic oil displaces regular oil and sludge, wouldn't it also displace part of a gasket that was permeated with the regular oil? The reason I believe this is that my jeep NEVER leaked oil before, anywhere. I know the previous owner and this thing never had oil anywhere on the outside of the motor until recently. The engine runs like it is new, has been meticulously maintained and it's just a little too coincidental for me to buy that this was a previous problem. :shock: JUST WHEN YOU THINK YOU'RE OUT THEY PULL YOU BACK IN!!! :wink:
 

On my motorcycles, they forbid the use of synthetics. Always used Castrol. Many synthetics are somewhat thinner than regular motor oils, could be a factor, a seep might turn into a leak.
Compression, usually starts going down around 130,000. Crank starts getting close to the outside tolerances. Synthetic oils can slow this down. Seals bake, get hard and start leaking. Most vehicles, are designed for 6 or 7 years of service. Most Jeeps can double this, with regular services. But gaskets, have to be occasionally changed. Many of the seals, on moving parts, are damaged from abrasion, more so than synthetic oils. Most of the crank leaks, I´ve seen are from the crank being a little loose, it rotates in a slightly egg shape and wears out the seals faster. O rings, rubber and cork gaskets get hard, don´t expand and contract with the motor anymore.
 
Just thinking aloud in this post...I have no educated opinion on this question.

But I would ask that everyone consider the following thoughts:

An engine is not designed in isolation. Engine gaskets are not designed in isolation. The various recipes for petroleum based and synthetic lubricants are not concocted in isolation. The engine, gaskets and lubricant form a complex interrelationship.

As applied to an older Jeep of say 1970 through 1990 vintage, the engine was designed to coexist with the gasketing materials and lubricants which existed at the time of engine design. I suspect the engine, gasketing material and petroleum engineers knew what they were doing.

If (big IF) the above is true, would not one be best advised to stick to the lubricants recommended by the knowledgeable people who designed the engine, gaskets and lubricants?

If not, then on what factual basis do we justify second-guessing the lubricant recommendations of the engine designers?

Gadget
 
After about 1980, maybe a few years later, Dodge offered synthetic as an option. They did recommend, using a break in oil, then changing to synthetic. In the late 80´s, Chevy could be ordered, from the factory, with synthetic oil, no break in oil, recommendations. My 88 XJ has a tag in the motor compartment, looks factory, says use only synthetic oil.
Darned if I know. But I doubt Mobile, would produce, an oil, that was gonna cause major complaints and it would still be in use twenty years later. Mechanics may be slow, but they arn´t stupid, the word would get around. Cam manufacturers would sometimes post a disclaimer, with there product, not to use a synthetic for break in. Then would offer special cam grease or oil, always thought they just wanted to sell there oil/coating. Most engine builders I know, old school, would use a Moly B coating on new cams, a whole lot slicker, than oil or grease.
Castrol always semed to be a pretty good oil, but looking at the color it seemed a bit better refined than most. The newer Mobile 1, isn´t as clear as it used to be (I opened up a ten year old can the other day). Mobile may have already made some adjustments.
 

I use synthetic in my motorcycle with out harm (mobile 1 15w30). The dealer (BMW)recomends the use of synthetic after 30,000 miles to allow for break in. And thats with the engines designed to run over 200,000 +miles and built to aircraft specs. On my next oil change I plan to convert my Z71 to synthetic (motor,trans, diff's). Since it has 160,000 miles on dino oil and no apparent leaks this should be interesting. Just my .02.
 
JUST WHEN YOU THINK YOU'RE OUT THEY PULL YOU BACK IN!!!

As I said, "To each his own" I will not get into a useless arguement of opinions with you. I do it my way, you do it yours. End of conversation and no pulling anyone "IN!!!"

Either way, it is too late now. you have leaks and Gasket replacement is in your future.

Lata


:::Edit:::
Oh and my basis of Opinion is an 85 Camaro with 180k when I switched to Synth. Leaked before the switch, didn't leak after. But then again she was on a Oil Change cycle of every 2K so there was no Sludge build-up.

P.S. If you have a poll that asks for everyone's Opinion, don't argue with them about it.
 
Hey man, I was just trying to add a bit of humor :oops: (Al Pacino's line from the godfather) :lol: . Don't take it personally. I certainly don't consider it an arguement, just a discussion. Useless, maybe! I don't have all the facts or think I know it all, that's why I'm here. You're right though, that one thing is indeed a fact, I'm gonna be replacing gaskets!
 

Y'all are gonna make me lock both of these posts soon....play nicey nice.



Rob 8) :P :)
 
I guess I am in the dark ages here. I use good ol "Oil" in my motors. I do use Slick 50 in everything I own about every 25000 miles I add a qt to the oil change. Had a caddallic with the 4100 alumium engin. Oil pump went and it over heated then cracked the block head or head gasket one never really knew. Ran it on in to the oil change place let em drain and refill it with some slick 50 added. Drove it on home and it over heated again checked the oil and case had water in it. Bummer dang car! Drained te oil again and added more slick 50 and added a bottle of stop leak to the radiator. Told a guy about the whole deal he bought it and has been driven it ever sence and says it has no more problems. Not over heating not looseing water, running fine. The bearings should have stoped turning long ago but running like a champ. Go figure cause if I had kept the dang car it would be dead in the water. I truely believe it is the slick 50 that saved the engin in the end. tug
 
I´ve used slick 50 gear additive, in a few, troublesome gear boxes, and rear ends. Found good old fashined Moly B (Liquid Moly) worked better in the diff´s.

This synthetic oil thread, in two parts, has run more replies than most.

How about a new thread, like "which of gods creatures is the most highly sexed"? I say the Porcupine. :lol:
 

I use regular oil, but have a small seep?leak? in my rear main seal. What do you think about that Lucas oil additive(thickener) I used it on a Ford 5.0 before and it worked good, will it help my 4.0??? Thanks!
jered
 
jeepin_madness said:
Lucas is the best. Good stuff there

are you the same guy that wrote this?:

Hoping the sludge will keep leaks from happening is like putting stop leak in a radiator. Sure it stops it but its not fixed now is it?...

...Point is though there is a right way and a half asses way to fix someting. If I have something leaking I don't get pissed, I fix it. Thats the way it goes, I don't count on garbage in an engine to keep it it. Like I said thats what the gasket is for
 

TwistedCopper said:
are you the same guy that wrote this?:


Yeah it was me, but I also wrote this

"If you do use an oil additive Lucas oil stabilizer or the stuff red line makes are the best the others are just snake oil. I forget what the chemical is called but they take it out of oil for it to meet the new govt specs. Taking this chemical out does more harm than good to an engine. Lucas & red line are the only ones who have this chemical in their oil additives. Just wish I could remember what its called??"

:lol:
 
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