I was wondering what you guys think, im getting a black wrangler painted the same color, the hardtop is flat black and textured of course. First the guy said painting the whole thing including the hard top with the same original black paint (glossy black I guess) would make the top look incredibly ugly because its textured. Now he says he can do the whole jeep the same way as the body in one shot and it might not come out bad, might even be nice. He says if it doesnt come out good the top can always be spray painted flat black either by him or me afterwards. Anyone have any opinions or experience with this? I really dont have the time to mess around with the top myself with spray cans and possibly make it look bad if I rush but I thought the top required a fiberglass paint. Any help would be appreciated
paint hardtop at maaco?
- Thread starter PIR8
- Start date
TwistedCU
New member
I think it would look wierd personally. It would have to be prepped and primed, but it really should be done in a gel coat, not a glossy auto paint. It may look good for a while but will probably chip and flake like crazy because the tops flex, especially when you remove & replace them.
Re: RE: Re: RE: HELP!!! Need opinions from all Jeepz folks..
Just have them mask the top. lightly scuff it with some med grit sandpaper (like a 5 min once over), then paint it with some SEM vinyl dye. It's $8 can and two cans will do a top. I painted my top 5 years ago and it still looks great, and if you scratch it up you can just spot spray to touch up (and you can't tell it's been touched up). Yeah it's a little bit of trouble, but you can do it start to finish in about an hour, and it will look like a factory hard top finish. I used almond on my top and it's close to denim tan color. You can see it in the pic of the CJ7 in my sig line. Just FYI, Maaco painted my jeep and I wasn't impressed with the work. You'd be better served to find a shade tree hot rod guy to paint your jeep. Maaco actually charged more to paint my 1st jeep than a local bodyman quoted me and the local guy did a beautiful job.
Just have them mask the top. lightly scuff it with some med grit sandpaper (like a 5 min once over), then paint it with some SEM vinyl dye. It's $8 can and two cans will do a top. I painted my top 5 years ago and it still looks great, and if you scratch it up you can just spot spray to touch up (and you can't tell it's been touched up). Yeah it's a little bit of trouble, but you can do it start to finish in about an hour, and it will look like a factory hard top finish. I used almond on my top and it's close to denim tan color. You can see it in the pic of the CJ7 in my sig line. Just FYI, Maaco painted my jeep and I wasn't impressed with the work. You'd be better served to find a shade tree hot rod guy to paint your jeep. Maaco actually charged more to paint my 1st jeep than a local bodyman quoted me and the local guy did a beautiful job.
redrooster
New member
RE: WTT VW Sand Rail for CJ
My brother just had his 71 Chevy painted at Maaco. The paint job was ok, but they did not remove the bed as we had instructed them to paint the back of the bed and rear of the cab. I made them take it off. I had already removed the rusty body bolts and put new ones in before hand to make life easier. We did all the body work. All they did was wipe, mask and spray for $500. I thought that was kind of high especially since they would not warannty it because they didn't do the body work.
In my opinion, gloss paint does not look good on a hardtop. Leave it as is or do as suggested above.
My brother just had his 71 Chevy painted at Maaco. The paint job was ok, but they did not remove the bed as we had instructed them to paint the back of the bed and rear of the cab. I made them take it off. I had already removed the rusty body bolts and put new ones in before hand to make life easier. We did all the body work. All they did was wipe, mask and spray for $500. I thought that was kind of high especially since they would not warannty it because they didn't do the body work.
In my opinion, gloss paint does not look good on a hardtop. Leave it as is or do as suggested above.
BigDaddys88YJ
New member
RE: Re: RE: black Bikini Top for YJ
Maaco sucks! I paint cars on the side and I helped a buddy with his hardtop. We painted it red like the rest of the jeep and to My suprise it looked good it's ok to paint the top you just need to add a flex agent to the paint you're spraying. good luck! 8)
Maaco sucks! I paint cars on the side and I helped a buddy with his hardtop. We painted it red like the rest of the jeep and to My suprise it looked good it's ok to paint the top you just need to add a flex agent to the paint you're spraying. good luck! 8)
88Wrangles
New member
if you go to the best painter in the world and ask for a $500 paint job, you're going to say it sucks!!
Not saying I wouldn't do it if I didn't have the time to paint it myself or just wanted a cheap paint job....but you do get what you pay for!
I would just have them paint it and simply dye the top like wm69 said.....I think that would come out quite nicely.
Not saying I wouldn't do it if I didn't have the time to paint it myself or just wanted a cheap paint job....but you do get what you pay for!
I would just have them paint it and simply dye the top like wm69 said.....I think that would come out quite nicely.
Rear bumper - its GO time!
Nope, you guys just aren't finding the right painter. I rolled the tan CJ on the left about 10 years ago. It was originally gold. I took off everything I didn't want painted (flares, lights etc) and likewise completely stripped the interior (the dash was completely removed and all guages were taken out). He painted it inside and out (including the underside of the hood and the wheel wells) and did all the body work (major dent behind left rear wheel, usual ripple down passenger side under the door and same to a smaller degree under drivers door, dents in hood from it flying up and hitting windshield frame) for $800. I moved 5 hours away so the 2nd time I took mine to Maacrap and they charged $500 to do the outside only (again, I removed everything I didn't want tan) and they did a really crappy job. I have a 2nd CJ7 (not pictured, the '8 is Dad's) that I want to have painted so I called the first guy back (he lives in my hometown where my parents still live) and he said if I stripped the outside again he'd do the outside for $400. He was the paint and body man at the local GM dealership for about 30 years and now paints in a little shop in his backyard. His paint jobs look as good as any factory paint job. Find the right guy to do it and you won't get ripped off........
88Wrangles said:
Nope, you guys just aren't finding the right painter. I rolled the tan CJ on the left about 10 years ago. It was originally gold. I took off everything I didn't want painted (flares, lights etc) and likewise completely stripped the interior (the dash was completely removed and all guages were taken out). He painted it inside and out (including the underside of the hood and the wheel wells) and did all the body work (major dent behind left rear wheel, usual ripple down passenger side under the door and same to a smaller degree under drivers door, dents in hood from it flying up and hitting windshield frame) for $800. I moved 5 hours away so the 2nd time I took mine to Maacrap and they charged $500 to do the outside only (again, I removed everything I didn't want tan) and they did a really crappy job. I have a 2nd CJ7 (not pictured, the '8 is Dad's) that I want to have painted so I called the first guy back (he lives in my hometown where my parents still live) and he said if I stripped the outside again he'd do the outside for $400. He was the paint and body man at the local GM dealership for about 30 years and now paints in a little shop in his backyard. His paint jobs look as good as any factory paint job. Find the right guy to do it and you won't get ripped off........
88Wrangles
New member
that's true. But you could also say that everyone has their own opinion about what paintjobs are good and what are bad.
Our painter (paints cars for my dad) would never even consider doing a paintjob for $500. The paints he uses alone almost always cost more than $500 per car.
That is a good deal you got though. I wish people around here would do $400 paintjobs that came out good and stayed good!! That'd give me a reason to paint my Chevy!
Our painter (paints cars for my dad) would never even consider doing a paintjob for $500. The paints he uses alone almost always cost more than $500 per car.
That is a good deal you got though. I wish people around here would do $400 paintjobs that came out good and stayed good!! That'd give me a reason to paint my Chevy!
RE: Air intake
Well, I didn't see any point in base coat/clear coat and whatnot on a trail rig. It looked great (he does an excellent job of prepping the vehicle, where Maacrap swiped it with some sandpaper and sprayed it). Maaco didn't even take off the "jeep" stickers in front of the doors; they just painted over them. If you do the prep work properly it will look fine with just about any paint you use.
The job I had done by the shade tree looked good after 6 years, but the jeep was starting to get a lof of nicks and scratches from trail use, so I thought I'd have it repainted. Then came the Maaco mistake. When I raised the hood at Maaco my wedding band scratched the paint; that's how crappy the paint they used was. So much for the "oven baking " making the paint hard. In their defense, each Maaco is independently owned, so your local Maaco may do a good job. I'd definately avoid the one in Springdale AR.........
88Wrangles said:
Well, I didn't see any point in base coat/clear coat and whatnot on a trail rig. It looked great (he does an excellent job of prepping the vehicle, where Maacrap swiped it with some sandpaper and sprayed it). Maaco didn't even take off the "jeep" stickers in front of the doors; they just painted over them. If you do the prep work properly it will look fine with just about any paint you use.
The job I had done by the shade tree looked good after 6 years, but the jeep was starting to get a lof of nicks and scratches from trail use, so I thought I'd have it repainted. Then came the Maaco mistake. When I raised the hood at Maaco my wedding band scratched the paint; that's how crappy the paint they used was. So much for the "oven baking " making the paint hard. In their defense, each Maaco is independently owned, so your local Maaco may do a good job. I'd definately avoid the one in Springdale AR.........
88Wrangles
New member
okay, I didn't realize they were THAT bad!! That is pretty sad if it's that easy to scratch the paint on a vehicle!
I've heard that the local Maaco's around here do a decent job and I haven't heard anything bad about them. But maybe that's where the whole 'independently owened' part comes in.
You're right, the prep is one of the most important parts. If they mess up there, the paint will look bad and not stick easily (like in your case). Another problem is that the people working at places like Maaco don't really care if you're happy or not. They're a big company and hire people that just want to get the job done as quickly as possible and don't take they're time....which is a very important part in it coming out descent!!
I've heard that the local Maaco's around here do a decent job and I haven't heard anything bad about them. But maybe that's where the whole 'independently owened' part comes in.
You're right, the prep is one of the most important parts. If they mess up there, the paint will look bad and not stick easily (like in your case). Another problem is that the people working at places like Maaco don't really care if you're happy or not. They're a big company and hire people that just want to get the job done as quickly as possible and don't take they're time....which is a very important part in it coming out descent!!
RE: 89 yj 258 intake and exhaust manifold
thanks for all the input, so the most common opinion is to paint it flat like the original not glossy and if the same paint was used thats put on the rest of the Jeep it would need a flex agent. i thought about the inside parts of the hard top like around the doors and obviously the glossy wouldnt match the flat.
i never thought about the whole oven baking and what that would do to a hardtop even the guy at maaco said if he was going to do it flat black hed use spray paint so i assume no oven
ill be selling the jeep in a while just wanted to make it look better and hopefully raise its appeal, current paint is in poor shape, im not too concerned about the paint lasting 6 yrs i also dont want the future buyer to have problems with the paintjob
as for the prep if i do it myself can i just use scuff pads or do i need sandpaper and if so what grit exactly? i take it i dont need to take all the old paint off and prime it like someone mentioned? is it absolutely necessary to take the top off and put it on its side to spray paint, i assume it is since you cant spray from the top with a spray can?
thanks for all the input, so the most common opinion is to paint it flat like the original not glossy and if the same paint was used thats put on the rest of the Jeep it would need a flex agent. i thought about the inside parts of the hard top like around the doors and obviously the glossy wouldnt match the flat.
i never thought about the whole oven baking and what that would do to a hardtop even the guy at maaco said if he was going to do it flat black hed use spray paint so i assume no oven
ill be selling the jeep in a while just wanted to make it look better and hopefully raise its appeal, current paint is in poor shape, im not too concerned about the paint lasting 6 yrs i also dont want the future buyer to have problems with the paintjob
as for the prep if i do it myself can i just use scuff pads or do i need sandpaper and if so what grit exactly? i take it i dont need to take all the old paint off and prime it like someone mentioned? is it absolutely necessary to take the top off and put it on its side to spray paint, i assume it is since you cant spray from the top with a spray can?
redrooster
New member
RE: CJ Tach Wiring
On a side note, I painted my CJ myself. I had painted with an air gun many times, but never a vehicle. It actually turned out pretty good with no runs and no flecks in the paint. That was 3 years ago.
The kind of paint I used was the real kicker. A friend of mine worked at Sherwin Williams automotive at the time and hooked me up with a gallon of aircraft grade paint mixed in my original color of Renegade Blue (pretty rare). The aricraft grade paint is fuel, brake fluid and hydraulic oil resistant and also very hard to scratch. Limbs don't even phase it. I dropped a piece of angle iron of the hood and no scratches. I got a few minor scratches when I rolled it, one from a flailing pop rivet gun and one accompanied by a dent in the hood thanks to an oak tree at Gray Rock. I would say that was pretty good for the abuse it has taken.
On a side note, I painted my CJ myself. I had painted with an air gun many times, but never a vehicle. It actually turned out pretty good with no runs and no flecks in the paint. That was 3 years ago.
The kind of paint I used was the real kicker. A friend of mine worked at Sherwin Williams automotive at the time and hooked me up with a gallon of aircraft grade paint mixed in my original color of Renegade Blue (pretty rare). The aricraft grade paint is fuel, brake fluid and hydraulic oil resistant and also very hard to scratch. Limbs don't even phase it. I dropped a piece of angle iron of the hood and no scratches. I got a few minor scratches when I rolled it, one from a flailing pop rivet gun and one accompanied by a dent in the hood thanks to an oak tree at Gray Rock. I would say that was pretty good for the abuse it has taken.
Robrt-Stephens
New member
Rattle can it. The whole Jeep. Period. Been doing it for 25 years and it rocks on an off trail rig......on road too......
redrooster
New member
RE: How
Robert,
Those are some beautiful trails you ride. I'll swap you a guided trip through the Southern Pines for one of those. How far is the tow from Bama to Montana? I have been to Montana twice but never with the Jeep. Something tells me I would have to get my heater working again.
Robert,
Those are some beautiful trails you ride. I'll swap you a guided trip through the Southern Pines for one of those. How far is the tow from Bama to Montana? I have been to Montana twice but never with the Jeep. Something tells me I would have to get my heater working again.
Robrt-Stephens
New member
redrooster said:
The two would be about 2400 miles. It's warm here save for Jan-feb, no heater needed. Can you dirve it? You're welcome anytime and you have a place to stay for you and yours. Plenty of room.
Good country!
PIR8 said:
I put my top up on saw horses and sprayed it right there. You can use rattle cans at about a 45 deg angle so you don't have to flip the top on it's side or anything. It's easy, just scuff it with some sand paper (scuff, not sand, and any grit will do), wipe it clean with a damp cloth to get the dust off, and spray. As for the jeep, if you are going to try and prep it for paint, you will want to do a net search for painting tips. Most recommend using real fine grain paper. Spray with primer, sand with sanding block, prime, sand, prime, sand. This is where you really wonder if you're better off paying someone $100 to do it or spend 30 hours doing it yourself as far as the prep work goes. If you rattle can it as RS recommends it's much easier to touch up. Thats something else to consider. You can also get automotive grade paint put into spray cans and paint it that way. Again, prep will make or break a paint job. If you want it to look really nice, go to a good shop or a good shade tree guy. If you want it to look repectable and have a definate advantage for touch ups, rattle can it.
