not running

S

stevodango69

New member
00 grand cherokee 4.0l ok lets start with the latest had it running but not right change the cam positon sensor but pulled the oil pump shaft out too put it back the way all data said and not start changed the pcm and it started but only for a few seconds. it said about sync the fuel system but it has to be running to to that correct? it will run on starting fluid but then dies. no codes are present with a cheap scan tool leaning towards the fuel pump.
 

Here's the procedure from the FSM. Follow it carefully. NOTE: The ignition timing is not adjustable however, if the position of the cam sensor when it was removed is NOT at the same relation when the new one was installed, the entire cam and crank timing must be re-aligned prior to re-installing the cam sensor to its proper position. The engine should run if this is correct. The cam and crank sync. procedure needs to be verified after the engine is running and set to 0*. The procedure is as follows:
REMOVAL - OIL PUMP DRIVE AND SENSOR

If the CMP and oil pump drive are to be removed and installed, do not allow engine crankshaft or camshaft to rotate. CMP sensor relationship will be lost.
  1. Disconnect electrical connector at CMP sensor CMP Location - 4.0L Engine
  2. Remove 2 sensor mounting bolts CMP and Oil Pump Drive Shaft - 4.0L Engine or CMP Location - 4.0L Engine
  3. Remove sensor from oil pump drive.
  4. Before proceeding to next step, mark and note rotational position of oil pump drive in relationship to engine block. After installation, the CMP sensor should face rear of engine 0°.
  5. Remove hold-down bolt and clamp CMP Location - 4.0L Engine
  6. While pulling assembly from engine, note direction and position of pulse ring CMP and Oil Pump Drive Shaft - 4.0L Engine After removal, look down into top of oil pump and note direction and position of slot at top of oil pump gear.
  7. Remove and discard old oil pump drive-to-engine block gasket.
INSTALLATION - OIL PUMP DRIVE AND SENSOR

  1. Clean oil pump drive mounting hole area of engine block.
  2. Install new oil pump drive-to-engine block gasket.
  3. Temporarily install a toothpick or similar tool through access hole at side of oil pump drive housing. Align toothpick into mating hole on pulse ring CMP Pulse Ring Alignment - 4.0L Engine
  4. Install oil pump drive into engine while aligning into slot on oil pump. Rotate oil pump drive back to its original position and install hold-down clamp and bolt. Finger tighten bolt. Do not do a final tightening of bolt at this time.
  5. If engine crankshaft or camshaft has been rotated, such as during engine tear-down, CMP sensor relationship must be reestablished.
    1. Remove ignition coil rail assembly. Refer to Ignition Coil Removal/Installation.
    2. Remove cylinder number 1 spark plug.
    3. Hold a finger over the open spark plug hole. Rotate engine at vibration dampener bolt until compression (pressure) is felt.
    4. Slowly continue to rotate engine. Do this until timing index mark on vibration damper pulley aligns with top dead center (TDC) mark (0 degree) on timing degree scale Align Timing Marks - 4.0L Engine Always rotate engine in direction of normal rotation. Do not rotate engine backward to align timing marks.
    5. Install oil pump drive into engine while aligning into slot on oil pump. If pump drive will not drop down flush to engine block, the oil pump slot is not aligned. Remove oil pump drive and align slot in oil pump to shaft at bottom of drive. Install into engine. Rotate oil pump drive back to its original position and install hold-down clamp and bolt. Finger tighten bolt. Do not do a final tightening of bolt at this time.
    6. Remove toothpick from housing.
  6. Install sensor to oil pump drive. After installation, the CMP sensor should face rear of engine 0°.
  7. Install 2 sensor mounting bolts and tighten to 2 N·m (15 in. lbs.) torque.
  8. Connect electrical connector to CMP sensor.
  9. If removed, install spark plug and ignition coil rail.
 
ok did that still doesn't run long i traced it to no injector pulse after it starts someone told me its a problem with the vtss i tried disarming it and nothing is there anything else that would make the pcm stop the injector pulse after it starts?
 
Have you verified that it's the VTSS that's causing the start and stall condition?. A good tell tale sign is the lamp on the dash. It should extinguish after the vehicle has been started and should not turn back on unless it's triggered by theft which in this case, a wrong key (if its a skim key) or the vtss is still armed after the ignition event. A scan tool should also throw out a DTC for this event.
 

no the light on top of the dash is not on so what else would kill the injector pulse?
 
Have you checked if there's fuel pressure in the fuel rail?. I just re-read the first post. You said it runs momentarily when you spray starting fluid in the T.body? is that right?. If so, i think the issue is in the cam and crank timing issue. If the distributor sensor is NOT properly set, it will not run.
 
no it will start up but then die the only way to keep it running is to spray starting fluid in the throttle body. i did the steps you sent me and same thing i put a noid light in the injector harness and it pulses for a second or two then nothing and the motor stalls. would low fuel pressure cause no injector pulse? i put the old psm back in and it started and ran like crap for a second then stalled so i but the other one back in and when it starts it runs smoother for the seconds it runs
 

@SteelHeadz, I could be wrong but ive heard the magnetic pickup ring in the distributor can fail to send a proper signal causing the injectors to not open when you're trying to start the engine, am I right about that? Also a fuel pressure regulator comes to mind.
 
Yes and no. Your direction on the theory of operation is correct however, the description is not. The 00 GC with a 4.0 uses a hall effect sensor on the distributor. The position of the distributor tone ring is critical to the alignment on the camshaft and crankshaft timing. There is a small hole in the distributor housing that will line up with the tone ring. This should be kept in place by a small pin during installation. With the cam and crankshaft at top dead center, then you can install the distributor into place. Once it's installed with the retainer tightened, then you can remove the pin. Do not rotate the distributor once it's properly seated, otherwise, that minute rotation could mean 2-4* off the top dead center. The engine should run even when the sync is off at 2* but barely any power.
On the question about the fuel pressure regulator, a test gauge should answer both the holding pressure in the fuel rail at key on and the integrity of the fuel pressure regulator when keyed off.
 

Absolutely. If the cam sensor is NOT properly aligned then the crankshaft sensor will either not see or sense that the cam shaft is either out of time due to a worn timing chain or gear and the PCM will in turn shut down the engine before it reaches a catastrophic failure. Also, in some occasions, from experience, i've found that with a DTC of "No signal received from CMP to PCM". This DTC is usually the CKP(crankshaft position sensor) NOT the CMP(camshaft position sensor).
 
i got it finally after all of that i igot it it was the vtss. all i had to do is change some stuff in the steering colum. thanks you been a lot of help
 

Wow cool!! that's weird that it was the VTSS. There should have been a tell tale sign either from the PCM or the theft module to warn you that it has been triggered unless you have somehow altered the wiring. never the less, Im glad it's running.
 
Okay well that explains the steering column. There's a module on the ignition switch that's called a SKIM module. It detects the correct key programmed to the SKIM and the PCM. You could have just transfered that module.
 
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